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Forum topic by LDO2802 posted 11-20-2017 09:43 PM 393 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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LDO2802

128 posts in 263 days


11-20-2017 09:43 PM

I just picked up about 8 Greenlee pattern gouges and wondered if anyone had experience restoring them? There seems to be a multitude of ways to grind and hone an in-canal bevel, but wanted to get some ideas before choosing. One method is a beveled stone, but that wastes a lot of your stone as it has to be changed for each size. Another is to cut round dowels the size of the gouge and glue it to a board and glue fine grit sandpaper to the dowel, seems very time consuming.


8 replies so far

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Andre

1485 posts in 1638 days


#1 posted 11-21-2017 12:20 AM

Lee Valley sells sharpen sets for gouges?

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

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Planeman40

1033 posts in 2593 days


#2 posted 11-21-2017 01:14 AM

I would recommend Sharpening Supplies as a source of all types of stones. they have a gouge stone especially made for your purposes. I have this stone and it works beautifully.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-India-Gouge-Sharpening-Stone-P72C30.aspx.

Here are some more gouge stones.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Carving-Tool-Sharpening-C30.aspx

They also have other gouge stones. I have the “Diamond Wave” gouge stone. It is very fine, not for “shaping” but final sharpening. I am also especially fond of Arkansas stones for gouge sharpening.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

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pontic

500 posts in 441 days


#3 posted 11-21-2017 02:49 AM

Depends on the grind. If the gouge is not ground right initially you would be best to send it out and then get a slip stone to maintain it. if the grind is correct but not sharp or smooth then get the india stone and go to town and then finish with either with a diamond or Arkansas. Then strop strop and strop again. wicked sharp is what you need for carving.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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LDO2802

128 posts in 263 days


#4 posted 11-21-2017 07:56 PM

For example, one is a 1.5 inch gouge at about a #7 curve compared to the gouge profile system. The blade was nicked to hell, so I squared it to a disk sander and straightened it again. This creates uneven thickness along the blade, which in turn makes it hard to run it on an india stone in the even the thin part separates causing another void on the blade. I suppose I could use a rounded stone to thin the thick parts down. I just wanted to see if anyone had done these before.

Another question, I was going to use the lemon/salt rub to take the light rust off and clean it up before buffing it with some green and red buffing compound on my muselin wheel. Thoughts? Pretty new to restoring tools, it seems there are a lot of different schools of thought on how to derust, sharpen, hone, polish, etc.

View jdh122's profile

jdh122

959 posts in 2650 days


#5 posted 11-21-2017 09:14 PM

I don’t have any in-canel gouges, but I have 2 bowl adzes that are shaped that way. I do regular maintenance sharpening with slip stones and hone with a dowel charged with honing compound (neither of which are the radius of the adze, but I move them along the edge).
But given how much work you have to do on them, this would take forever. Once or twice I’ve used my drill press with a sanding drum (like this one: http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20196&cat=1,42500,42501). I use the drum that is closest to the shape of the adze, but smaller. It works pretty good, although I’ve not done as much metal removing and reshaping as you’re talking about.

-- Jeremy, in the Acadian forests

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LDO2802

128 posts in 263 days


#6 posted 11-22-2017 12:14 AM

I held the gouge up to the drill sander and decided it would take too much off. I am thinking of using a file to even the edge of the bevel, then using a rounded stone to slowly sharpen it. As for taking the rust off the outside, I am thinking of using a rust remover with 000 then slowly buffing it with a muslin buffing wheel with green compound on it. Finish it off with some metal polish and it should be good to go! Will post an outcome for it.

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Tim

3678 posts in 1794 days


#7 posted 11-22-2017 06:15 PM

I’ve used a dremel with a grinding tip to take off some metal in situations like this. They run too fast so you have to take it easy, but even taking very light passes, it’s faster than with a stone. Of course that means you can mess it up after too, so you have to decide if it’s worth it.

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pontic

500 posts in 441 days


#8 posted 11-24-2017 02:49 PM

If I have nicks I regrind the blade profile with my nelt sander using 120 then 220 then 320 grits of metal sanding ceramic belts. They cut well and last a long time. You can get them from Grainger’s. Then I hone them with my diamond gouge hone. then power strop on the drill press. This technique did take some practice on some cheaper gouges but it works great for me. If the nick or chip is more than 1/16” deep I chuck the tool because you will most likely grind thry the temper zone when re profiling the blade.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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