Table Saw Blade Combinations

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Forum topic by Furnitude posted 02-23-2011 05:03 PM 2001 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Furnitude's profile


380 posts in 3476 days

02-23-2011 05:03 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw blade

Hello All,
I have a new table saw I’m thinking about which blades to get. I’m not concerned with brands at the moment but rather what types of blades people recommend. Let me start with what I want to accomplish: I’d like to be able to rip boards and have them be ready to glue up. (Because I have a contractors saw, I’d like to have a thin kerf blade). I’d like to cross cut boards with minimal tear-out. I’d like to be able to cut flat grooves for joinery. I’m mostly limited by budget.

I think I’ll eventually get a dado set but I don’t have a use for one at the moment so that can wait. I have a good miter saw, so I’m sure I’ll continue to use that for most cross-cutting operations.

I’m leaning toward a thin-kerf ripping blade and a flat-filed cross-cut blade. Or, to kill multiple birds with one stone, I’m even thinking about a thin-kerf ripping blade and a dado set for use in joinery (and leave the cross cutting to my miter saw).

Thoughts? Thanks for your help!

-- Mitch, Also blog at

10 replies so far

View IrreverentJack's profile


727 posts in 2812 days

#1 posted 02-23-2011 05:45 PM

Mitch, I have a Freud and like it. Amazon is selling the Freud LM75R010 30t Thin Kerf Glue Line for $48. shipped.

View childress's profile


841 posts in 3511 days

#2 posted 02-23-2011 06:02 PM

I have a glue line rip and while it puts acceptable glue joints on edges, it doesn’t crosscut well at all. The FT, TCG of the teeth don’t work well for that application.

I also have a CMT general purpose blade that is just as good with the glue line rips (I’ve done side by side comparisons) and has a very good quality cross cut. You might be able to use a combo blade as well but the general purpose has only 40 teeth compared to 50 usually found on combo blades. That helps with ripping.

-- Childress Woodworks

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2820 days

#3 posted 02-23-2011 06:58 PM

Given your budget constraints and your desire for glue joints off the saw, I’d suggest you plan on a saw blade stabilizer which will give you better quality cuts from blades not as good as you’ll one day own (and which still benefit from the use of the stabilizer). I was real skeptical about these but they’re an excellent tool and they never wear out or need sharpening!



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4910 posts in 3930 days

#4 posted 02-23-2011 07:15 PM

A flat filed crosscut blade????? No way. Crosscuts should be made with ATB or High ATB blades, or a good quality 50 tooth general purpose blade. Flat teeth on a crosscut will do a very poor job, and will have lots of tear-out.
I use a Freud reg. kerf 50 tooth combo blade for most of the operations on my saw. When needing a lot of ripping, I change to a dedicated rip blade.
I have blade stabilizers on my RAS only. Most posts on stabliizers state limited benefits. A good quality blade on an accurate and well adjusted saw probably won’t need stabliizers.
Hope this helps.


View HorizontalMike's profile


7749 posts in 2883 days

#5 posted 02-23-2011 08:05 PM

When ripping 8/4 stock I use the Freud 24T Rip that is best for >3/4” stock. I started out using a Freud 50T Combination blade and that just would NOT handle ripping 8/4. Since you are using a contractor TS, you probably won’t be ripping much stock >3/4 so the Freud LM75R010 30t Thin Kerf Glue Line mentioned above is probably your best bet for ripping.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Brian024's profile


358 posts in 3369 days

#6 posted 02-23-2011 08:06 PM

I have had good success with one of the $50.00 Ridgid Combo blades.

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2624 days

#7 posted 02-24-2011 01:33 AM

A thin kerf rip blade and crosscut blade are my first choice in blades. They reduce the wear and tear on the table saw and reduce waste. Next is a combo blade ATB alternate top bevel. This can be used for creating narrow dados and a flat bottom in the dado. Then I would get a good dado blade set. I use the Freud that has the dial-a-shim instead of individual shims. Saves time getting the width set just right.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View knotscott's profile


7985 posts in 3345 days

#8 posted 02-24-2011 02:59 AM

Tips for picking saw blades

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View brianinpa's profile


1812 posts in 3692 days

#9 posted 02-24-2011 03:32 AM

Brand names are a personal choice, but I like to have a wide assortment of blades, so I have 4 blades with tooth counts of 20, 40, 60, and 80. Now that I think about it, I have 5: I also have a plywood blade that came with my saw and has never been used. Gives me a wide choice.

-- Brian, Lebanon PA, If you aren’t having fun doing it, find something else to do.

View agallant's profile


551 posts in 2856 days

#10 posted 02-24-2011 04:26 PM

These are the two standard blades I use.

This one for cross cuts and light ripping $40

and this one for ripping $30

I just bought a new table saw and wood craft sold me a $138 Forrest Wood Worker II 40 tooth thin kerf for $40. It is nice but it does not cut nicer than those blades listed above.

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