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Shelf pin jig help

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Forum topic by opalko posted 11-19-2017 11:39 PM 536 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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opalko

140 posts in 2874 days


11-19-2017 11:39 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig shelf pin

Have tried three times using shelf pin jigs to make the holes for pins in my set of bookshelves. First time with homemade jig, made on drill press to use bushing in router…holes didn’t line up front & back of shelves, inaccurate homemade jig I assumed.

Bought a Kreg 6 hole jig and ended up with same results next two times. Holes start out matching across a straight line front to back, but after about 10 or 12 holes (row of shelf holes span 62”) there is a tiny gap between adjacent pin rows which by the last hole is off an entire pin width. I don’t measure the starting spot for the jig, I use a block of wood clamped across the bookcase side so I am theoretically starting in the exact same spot and taking measurements out of the equation. What am I doing wrong or are the tolerances in these jigs not meant for such long spans? By the way I have 3 sets of bookcases or 6 bookcase sides I have to do this with.

After wasting this much time I am ready to either buy a Rockler or Veritas jig that does both rows at the same time or just go back to using shelf standards! Arrrgh!


21 replies so far

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

3657 posts in 2147 days


#1 posted 11-19-2017 11:54 PM

If this his what you made it should work just fine as long as you panels are square and you index the jig correctly. It’s the best home made hole drilling jig IMO.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

747 posts in 333 days


#2 posted 11-20-2017 12:05 AM

I have the one from Rockler. Never had an issue. It comes with a pin that you can drop in the first hole to lock the jig from moving.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View Loren's profile

Loren

9632 posts in 3486 days


#3 posted 11-20-2017 12:05 AM

Take a look at the Align-rite and the Woodpeckers
template too.

I have a plastic Rockler jig that uses a spring loaded
bit. I don’t trust the centering of the bit. Later
I bought an Align-rite, which works okay. The
bushing holes are the same size as the pins so
you can drop in more than one pin to register
an extension of the row. It seemed to me that
with the Rockler spring-loaded jig if the hole you
registered off was not concentric, it could cause
a problem.

The best systems I’ve seen for 32mm cabinet drilling
are one that’s not around anymore called a Kurka
Jig and one called Schmitt 32. The Veritas system
comes close but it looks like it may be a little on
the slow side as it doesn’t support a plunge router
and you have to move the bushing a lot. All
three allow for locating the rows of holes on exact
32mm centers for drilling drawer slide holes… which
may be beyond the scope of what you want in
a hole jig.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

3657 posts in 2147 days


#4 posted 11-20-2017 12:20 AM

One other plus for the router method. Until I started it I could never get consistently clean crip free holes. Now that is not a problem even in Melamine.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

2903 posts in 1827 days


#5 posted 11-20-2017 12:44 AM

I did all the cabinets in my shop and used the WWA shelf pin jig. I do not have a link but you can Google it.

I drilled holes in the cabinets for the 32 mm Euro style cabinets and did hundreds of holes with a router and the jig. I spent time making the jig accurate and making certain it was secured to the work pieces.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

3657 posts in 2147 days


#6 posted 11-20-2017 01:04 AM

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

3115 posts in 3069 days


#7 posted 11-20-2017 01:34 AM

I have a pair of the Kreg jigs. Never had any trouble with them. It must be something you are doing that allows for a slight discrepancy.

Like you, I use a spacer and/or a common starting point.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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a1Jim

116585 posts in 3415 days


#8 posted 11-20-2017 02:55 AM

I’ve got a boring machine it works very well and nice and quick.

I also have a jig like AKguy

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

3657 posts in 2147 days


#9 posted 11-20-2017 04:00 AM



Take a look at the Align-rite and the Woodpeckers
template too.

I have a plastic Rockler jig that uses a spring loaded
bit. I don t trust the centering of the bit. Later
I bought an Align-rite, which works okay. The
bushing holes are the same size as the pins so
you can drop in more than one pin to register
an extension of the row. It seemed to me that
with the Rockler spring-loaded jig if the hole you
registered off was not concentric, it could cause
a problem.

The best systems I ve seen for 32mm cabinet drilling
are one that s not around anymore called a Kurka
Jig and one called Schmitt 32. The Veritas system
comes close but it looks like it may be a little on
the slow side as it doesn t support a plunge router
and you have to move the bushing a lot. All
three allow for locating the rows of holes on exact
32mm centers for drilling drawer slide holes… which
may be beyond the scope of what you want in
a hole jig.

- Loren


http://schmitt32.com/products/

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View jbay's profile

jbay

1857 posts in 737 days


#10 posted 11-20-2017 02:47 PM



I ve got a boring machine it works very well and nice and quick.

- a1Jim

I like to do both rows at the same time. :) nice and quick..er (holes are always even)

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

2144 posts in 3709 days


#11 posted 11-20-2017 02:59 PM

View DS's profile

DS

2824 posts in 2258 days


#12 posted 11-20-2017 03:13 PM



If this his what you made it should work just fine as long as you panels are square and you index the jig correctly. It s the best home made hole drilling jig IMO.

- AlaskaGuy

I have something similar but it uses my drill instead of a router. (Easier I think)

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

116585 posts in 3415 days


#13 posted 11-20-2017 03:27 PM

Nice set up “J”

Your link doesn’t work Charles.

I use the same router jig and router in my class it works fine.

In years gone by I’ve even used peg board and a forstner bit it worked fine too.

If you’re careful and keep track of the which end of the jig or pegboard you’re using there’s no problem with doing one side at a time.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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CharlesNeil

2144 posts in 3709 days


#14 posted 11-20-2017 03:33 PM

Worked for me ?

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a1Jim

116585 posts in 3415 days


#15 posted 11-20-2017 03:48 PM

I was clicking it off the email notice but it worked on the LJ link fine,sorry about that, Interesting set up close to $500 not bad if you do enough cabinets.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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