Need Help!!: Replacing or Jerry-Rigging a Switch for a Jointer...

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Forum topic by dakremer posted 02-22-2011 12:47 AM 4494 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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2742 posts in 3295 days

02-22-2011 12:47 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer switch fix

Hey guys, The switch on the jointer I use went bad. I know its the switch because one day (for no apparent reason) the switch just didnt feel the same – it didnt click to its on and off position like it used to – and since that started, I can’t get the jointer to turn on.

My question is this. Does anyone know where I can buy the switch for this jointer? Will Sears sell this switch mechanism or will i have to order if somewhere??


Is there a way to jerry-rig my own switch (like a light switch) to be mounted on the stand, therefor bypassing the broken switch completely???? I’d rather do it this way if possible. Thanks for your help

Also Keep in mind that while I’m no idiot, I have no electrical experience – so if you are going to explain how to jerry-rig something up, you need to explain it like your explaining it to a 10 year old :) :)

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

11 replies so far

View DaddyZ's profile


2475 posts in 3244 days

#1 posted 02-22-2011 12:53 AM

Yes You Can, Surely you have a friend or Neighbor who would be glad to show you how to do it.

-- Pat - Worker of Wood, Collector of Tools, Father of one

View ToddTurner's profile


144 posts in 3527 days

#2 posted 02-22-2011 12:54 AM

If you have no experience with electricity, find a friend or a repair shop and have it done. You will risk burning down the house!
On the other hand, black wire to black wire, white to white, etc, etc…..

Seriously, if youre interested in learning simple wiring, get a book. Otherwise, leave it alone.
(just looking out for fellow jocks)

View GMman's profile


3902 posts in 3901 days

#3 posted 02-22-2011 01:01 AM

Take the back apart and blow air in it it may be just full of wood dust.
Same thing happened to my job site saw and the little cap in the back of the switch was full of saw dust.

View EEngineer's profile


1117 posts in 3817 days

#4 posted 02-22-2011 02:16 AM

No, you do not risk burning down the house. You might risk blowing a fuse or tripping a circuit breaker…

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3852 days

#5 posted 02-22-2011 02:31 AM

A squirt of liquid graphite into the switch may get it working. I wouldn’t
recommend oil, but graphite dries quick and becomes a dry lubricant.

Those kind of switches are pretty common and not that well made, so
it may have failed.

View tdv's profile


1188 posts in 3274 days

#6 posted 02-22-2011 11:04 AM

I’m not sure about US electrics but I know in the UK light switches are only rated at 5 amps (not enough for switching motors). I do however have on my contractor saw a switch that looks exactly like that one which I bypassed to fit a no volt release switch (NVR) I see Pat kindly offered you his but if for any reason that doesn’t work out let me know & I’ll take the one off my saw & send it to you (hoping that customs won’t x-ray it & blow it up as a suspicious device)

-- God created wood that we may create. Trevor East Yorkshire UK

View dakremer's profile


2742 posts in 3295 days

#7 posted 02-22-2011 03:54 PM

thanks tdv!! I am anxiously waiting for Pat’s to show up in the mail (how kind of him). If it doesnt work out, i might be giving you a holler!! Thank you so much for the offer!

This community is great

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View Bertha's profile


13551 posts in 2897 days

#8 posted 02-22-2011 04:00 PM

You could always take the switch to RadioShack or a big box store. A few female wire connectors crimped on & slid onto the posts, you should be back in business. Worst case scenario, maybe some simple soldering. Good luck.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

21743 posts in 3309 days

#9 posted 02-22-2011 09:58 PM

Hi Doug. That is a Craftsman and they can get you one at a sears parts department.
If they don’t have them in stock any more, you can get one at Grizzly. The important thing is that you get a switch with the right amp rating or it will burn up the contacts. A light switch will most likely have too small contacts.
They are not hard to put in. unscrew the switch and then there are probably 2 wires going to it.They will be screwed on or have push on blade connectors that pull off.

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View brtech's profile


1052 posts in 3126 days

#10 posted 02-22-2011 10:59 PM

I think you all are making too much out of the issues of replacing it with a “light switch”.

The switch has two wires. The light switch has two wires. Which one is which doesn’t matter. You need to get those two wires from the jointer to the light switch. That means you cut off the wires to the broken switch, splice a piece of 14/2 to those wires, connect the other end of the 14/2 to the light switch. It’s that easy.

A bench top jointer doesn’t pull anything close to what the rating of a light switch is (typically 15A).

I would, if that’s the direction you want to go, get a simple light switch,a work box, and a face plate. Get a short piece of 14 ga house wire, and strip the ends 1/2” or so. Connect the white wire to the silver screw, black wire to the gold screw, just because (it really doesn’t matter for a switch) and thread it through a hole in the work box to the jointer. Cut the wires off the switch, strip the ends 1/2” or so. Use “wire nuts” to connect the wires that used to go to the switch to the house wire: twist the house wire and the switch wire together, then twist on the wire nut. When you are done, you should not be able to see or touch the stripped ends: you should only see and touch plastic. You should have something holding the wire as it exits the work box. Many boxes have a clamp, or use a romex clamp in a knockout hole on the work box. Screw the switch to the work box, and the face plate to the switch.

There are only two cautions: No bare wire should be visible. You should have tight connections to the wires. Nothing loose. The screws on the switch should be tight on the wire, the wire nut should be threaded on tightly.

It should just work. If it doesn’t work at all (light switch doesn’t turn on the jointer at all), it means the wires aren’t connected somewhere. If the switch seems to always be on (jointer runs no matter what position the switch is in), then you have crossed wires. White wire to silver screw on switch and to one of the broken switch wires. Black wire to gold screw on switch and to the other wire of the broken switch.

If the switch works the wrong way (up is off, down is on), pull the plug, remove the faceplate, unscrew the switch, turn around the switch, screw it back together.

View dakremer's profile


2742 posts in 3295 days

#11 posted 02-22-2011 11:26 PM

Thanks guys for all the suggestions! I am going to see if the switch Pat is going to send me will work first. And if it doesnt I will try the other method! I didnt know it was that simple to bypass the switch to a new switch! reading this, and a couple of youtube videos later, I could probably easily do it! Thanks again

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

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