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Thinking about a Grizzly G0771Z, need advice?

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Forum topic by tpcolson posted 11-13-2017 05:41 PM 2366 views 1 time favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tpcolson

5 posts in 1519 days


11-13-2017 05:41 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw grizzly router extension question

Thinking about a Grizzly G0771Z….a step up from the Delta at Lowes. If I’m going to sport the extra few hundred for better trunion alignment and a better table/fence, I’m doing my homework on accessorizing. I’m no woodworker, I’m knee deep in a home renovation that has illustrated my current contractor saw isn’t up to the task, nor is my built-from-scrap-wood router table. I’m really interested in adding a router extension like many users on this forum have demonstrated. Few questions….can a router extension be added to the G0771Z? Looking at their web site, the front and back rails look kinda short to accept a table. Do new rails have to be purchased? I really like being able to add a standard size router plate, with some additional inches either on the end, or in between, to add another iron insert or whatever to get some “ripping plywood” width. As to a fence, forgive my lack of proper terminology, I see some posts where folks use the saw fence as the router fence, with all of the doo-dads for both mounted on it. I assume one would have to buy a special fence for that? It sure would be handy if I could get away with a single fence. Anyway, if anyone has this sort of set up, sure would be helpful if you could post what parts you used, or where you got them. Purchase decision will be based on ease and cost of getting the parts I need/want to bring my shop to a better quality “chop shop”. Thanks!


15 replies so far

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rbrjr1

158 posts in 75 days


#1 posted 11-22-2017 03:16 PM

I don’t know if you’ve pulled the trigger yet, but at $750 plus freight, that looks like a spectacular option for a table saw.

at 31” right of the blade, you can rip plywood on that setup as it is now.
mount the router insert on the right side of the blade and you’ll be able to make a clamp on router fence for the existing T square rip fence.

-- measure twice, cut once.

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Sweeper

14 posts in 57 days


#2 posted 11-26-2017 10:33 PM

This may be a little off the topic but it may address some of the same concerns.
I’m getting reading to buy another saw and I have a question regarding the Grizzly G0883P and the G0771Z.
Both have 2 HP but he 0883 is wired for 220V and has to be rewired for 115V. Not a big deal but they say that change requires a T23999 circuit breaker.
The 1Z has a clone of the Shop Fox Original T-fence. Grizzly states it has the same solid front locking ability. What type of fence does the 0883 have?
The 0883 weighs 45lbs more than the IZ. Both have cast iron tables…so why the weight difference?
Both have cabinet mounted trunnions.
And….they’re both on sale a Grizzly for the same price.
So which one should I buy?

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Andybb

636 posts in 473 days


#3 posted 11-26-2017 11:39 PM

I love my 771! Deadly accurate and plenty of power for my needs. Yes it has room for a table with the existing rails. I had a router fence that clamped to the TS fence for 2 years but then I started doing some miter-lock joint routing and a few other things that required a precise bit setup so I built a new router fence that is independent of the TS fence. The problem is that it is a total pain and work flow stopper when you need the TS fence but can’t (don’t want to) move the router fence. I hear that the fence for the 883 is a better fence but the one on the saw works just fine IMO.

I have Harbor Freight wheels under it, Jessem stock guides mounted on the fence and built a folding outfeed table for it. The t-tracks on the underside of the rails came in handy for mounting the outfeed and router tables.

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knotscott

7818 posts in 3245 days


#4 posted 11-27-2017 12:56 AM

Just guessing, but the difference in weight could be partly because the G0833 has steel fence rails, while the G0771Z has aluminum rails. Also, from a glance, the G0833 appears to have a larger access door.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Shamb3

11 posts in 51 days


#5 posted 11-27-2017 04:44 AM

G0771Z works well for me. My only experience prior was a contractor saw though. Only thing I had to adjust was the fence.

There is room for a router table. The back rail is not very sturdy, it is fine for the fence but I am not sure about a heavy router / table top. I plan to build a better supported cart with a router table on top that slides in and out of the space. I need the storage for router / saw related stuff anyways.

The other things you may run into is the throat plate is pretty thin, so if you want to make a zero clearance insert it will be a little more complex.

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Sweeper

14 posts in 57 days


#6 posted 11-27-2017 06:47 AM

Thank you Rbr, Scott and Andy for your help.
I’ll be using a 20amp/115V circuit. The G0771 runs at 15 amps under full load and the 0833 runs at 16 amps. Will the extra amp be a problem at start up…or under full load?
I could pull a 220V line to my shop but I already have two 20 amp circuits and if I can get away with using one of those I’d be a happier camper.

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Sweeper

14 posts in 57 days


#7 posted 11-27-2017 06:49 AM

Oh and thanks Shamb too.

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Andybb

636 posts in 473 days


#8 posted 11-27-2017 06:55 AM



The back rail is not very sturdy, it is fine for the fence but I am not sure about a heavy router / table top.

- Shamb3


Hmmm… Not sure what you mean by that. Both rails are sturdy on mine. There is also the crossbar that connects the ends of the 2 rails.

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Shamb3

11 posts in 51 days


#9 posted 11-27-2017 10:43 PM

The back rail is not very sturdy, it is fine for the fence but I am not sure about a heavy router / table top.

- Shamb3

Hmmm… Not sure what you mean by that. Both rails are sturdy on mine. There is also the crossbar that connects the ends of the 2 rails.

- Andybb

if i lightly push down on the far end of the back rail, it flexes.
I don’t think I have a crossbar at the end. I will need to go double check to see if I have any “extra” parts.

edit. yeah my saw did not come with a cross bar and i don’t see one in the pic on grizzly.
I have the G0771Z, you have the older G0771?
My back rail is some relatively thin aluminum square which supports the aluminum t-track fence just fine.

Don’t get me wrong, I love the saw and the price. These are easy imperfections to overcome.

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Sweeper

14 posts in 57 days


#10 posted 11-28-2017 03:28 AM

Well…I was undecided until an hour before the sale ended today. I decided on the 0883P. It was priced at $825 … $75 more than the 0771Z. This old dog is really excited!

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Andybb

636 posts in 473 days


#11 posted 11-28-2017 08:13 AM

edit. yeah my saw did not come with a cross bar and i don t see one in the pic on grizzly.
I have the G0771Z, you have the older G0771?
My back rail is some relatively thin aluminum square which supports the aluminum t-track fence just fine.

Don t get me wrong, I love the saw and the price. These are easy imperfections to overcome.

- Shamb3


Yes, no Z at the end of my model #. It was only a year old when I got it for $400 on ClList. It was kind of strange. I saw it listed and decided to see what I could get for my 10 yr old Bosch 4000 contractors saw. It sold for $400 the first day I listed it and I went and got the Griz the same day. Karma.

Congrats elsinoreshop! Post some pics and a review when you get it. I was like you. A home project guy who needed an upgrade. The difference is cathartic! :-)

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Sweeper

14 posts in 57 days


#12 posted 12-02-2017 08:05 AM

The 0833 arrived today. I picked up a dial indicator at Harbor Freight and checked the miter slots off the cheap blade that came with the saw. The left was dead on and the right slot was cut running off at .008 or 1 /125”..not to shabby.
The blade lifts perpendicular to the table BUT….when I crank it down…at 2 1/2 inches above the table it raises just a hair and then clunks down 1/4 inch.
I checked the worm gear and trunnions for debris or chips etc…they’re clean and greased. I tried pressing down on the motor as I lowered the blade and with the pressure the blade moves smoothly.
I’ll call Grizzly tomorrow and see what’s up. I had an old Delta Unisaw nearly 40 years ago [and it seems like only yesterday] and it did the same thing…even worse…it really clunked.
The other thing that bugs me just a little, is that although the saw can run on 220V or 110V, it’s wired with 14 AWG wire for 220V. When running on 110V the saw can draw as much as 16 amps under load (FLA) and it will always draw a little over 19 on start up. Grizzly even recommends changing the breaker in the switch to a 20 amp breaker for 110V. I’ve read that 14 gauge wire will handle 20 amps but its only rated for 15. So now I have to re-wire the switch and the power cord with 12-3.
But that’s just a little hiccup. The big one is the clunk and drop….
Does anyone have any idea about why the gears clunk and the blade drops when I’m lowering it?

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jonah

1515 posts in 3168 days


#13 posted 12-02-2017 12:37 PM

You absolutely do not need to replace the cord.

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Sweeper

14 posts in 57 days


#14 posted 12-02-2017 04:51 PM

Thank you…then I’ll just swap out the breaker and switch the wires over for 110V.
Now if I can solve the clunk and drop issue…I’ll be a happy camper. If I was sure it wouldn’t get worse, I wouldn’t worry about it. Grizzly’s closed on weekends so I’ll have to wait until Monday to see what’s what.
Thanks again

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Sweeper

14 posts in 57 days


#15 posted 12-02-2017 04:59 PM

I’m a little over a week old to Lumber Jocks and I’m really happy I joined. It lifts my spirit when I see people helping each other. To all who have helped me and to those who will help in the future…..Thank you

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