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Surface rust on tablesaw and jointer

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Forum topic by yellowtruck75 posted 02-19-2011 04:24 PM 1941 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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yellowtruck75

464 posts in 2533 days


02-19-2011 04:24 PM

My table saw and jointer are both less than a year old and I have surfce rust on their tables. What should I use to get it off? Both tables have rust from something damp being placed on them, green wood and a box.

Thanks
YT75


3 replies so far

View Florida_Jim's profile

Florida_Jim

83 posts in 2344 days


#1 posted 02-19-2011 04:37 PM

I use a fine “Scotchbrite pad” then coat the table with Johnsons paste wax, when you have it clean.

View dalec's profile

dalec

613 posts in 3355 days


#2 posted 02-19-2011 04:47 PM

I agree with Jim.

I have used both the white and the gray scotch brite pads on my table saw top. I just spray some wd30 and use even long strokes in the grain direction of the metal, wipe off (may take a couple of cycles). Once the rust is removed, I wiipe down and clean the metal with mineral spirits before putting on a coat of wax. Don’t get too aggressive with the grit, just enough to get the rust removed. You may have to progress to high grit pads if the finer grits don’t get it all.

Here is a link that may be helpful in selecting scotch brite grits:

http://academic.evergreen.edu/projects/biophysics/technotes/fabric/finish.pdf

Dalec

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2608 posts in 2517 days


#3 posted 02-19-2011 06:35 PM

Here’s a forum post from 5-6-weeks ago on caring for a cast iron top after you remove the rust:
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/23358

You can certainly use mineral spirits to remove the rust. I used the Top Saver with great success on my old TS as well. It had been sitting out in the guy’s garage for a couple of years and had lots of light rust everywhere, nothing deep, just superficial, but in abundance.

I used a grey synthetic pad that I believe was equivalent to #1-steel wool that I got at HD. I scoured the top with this and the Top Saver, then wiped it clean with a rag. After that, I sprayed it again, then used my ROS set down on top of the pad to get a random swirl pattern and really work the Top Saver down into the pores. I let it sit for a few minutes, then buffed it off with a clean cotton scrap t-shirt. I did have to apply a bit of downward pressure to the ROS to keep the pad from flying out from under it, but this technique worked very well and I got a very random fine scratch pattern on the table top.

There were several areas where the rust went a tiny bit deeper so I simply had to hit those spots several times. I’d highly recommend using the ROS as it leaves you with a very even-looking table top, rather than doing it by hand where you’ll see all of your scratch patterns.

Just make sure there’s no silicone in whatever you decide to put on as the topcoat.

My top choices for the topcoat would be, in no particular order:
Top Saver
Boeshield T-9
Renaissance Wax (it’ll last a lot longer, is harder, and you can actually build layers, compared to Johnson’s Paste Wax, or something similar.)

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

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