European hinges protruding into dado for door panel?

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Forum topic by Vrtigo1 posted 02-19-2011 05:37 AM 3190 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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434 posts in 3232 days

02-19-2011 05:37 AM

I’m making some doors for a cabinet and am running into a problem I’ve run into before but never bothered to stop and look for a solution. I’m making raised panel doors and am using european style hinges. I bought a hinge kit from Woodcraft that came with a 35mm forstner bit as well as a plastic setup gauge that you use to mark the position for the hinges on the stiles.

The problem is that when I use the gauge to mark the position for the hinge holes, the hole overlaps the 1/4” deep dado that the door panel sits in by about 1/16”. So when I install the hinge, the round part of the hinge that is set into the stile is actually sticking into the dado. It’s not much, but it’s enough to cause problems when trying to install the door panel.

I’ve previously used a straight bit in my router table to nibble a bit of the door panel away so it’ll fit around the part of the hinge that’s sitting in the dado, but this is time consuming and it doesn’t seem like I should have to do it.

This is the jig that I’m using:

I noticed that they’re using it with a solid door in the picture. Should I just assume that the jig wasn’t meant to be used with doors that have a panel? I can manually measure for the hinge location so the hole won’t intersect the dado, but wanted to make sure I’m not doing something wrong or overlooking something.

10 replies so far

View cabmaker's profile


1744 posts in 3050 days

#1 posted 02-19-2011 05:45 AM

Sounds like your rail/stile material is too narrow. For 32 mm cups 2 1/4 wide is industry standard (sorta). Mine is 2 1/2. Nibbling the panel should be pretty fast if you need too. Thats how we learn. What hinge are you using and how far in is that jig allowing you to drill ?

View Resurrected's profile


671 posts in 2933 days

#2 posted 02-19-2011 05:46 AM

Hmm I’m going to try and say this kindly.

Throw the plastic guide away. Its junk. I have the same thing and the guy at woodcraft forewarned me that it was inaccurate, but I bought it anyway. I should of listened. Anyway I figure what was wrong and then just started to measure and mark Its not that difficult to measure. I also use a nail punch to mark it so the bit centers.

-- Who can I block now???????????????????????

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1744 posts in 3050 days

#3 posted 02-19-2011 05:49 AM

Gotta ask . Are you drilling for those cups before the door is assembled ?

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671 posts in 2933 days

#4 posted 02-19-2011 05:55 AM

I kinda also wonder about how wide the rail annd stiles are? But the guide gots to go.

-- Who can I block now???????????????????????

View Vrtigo1's profile


434 posts in 3232 days

#5 posted 02-19-2011 08:06 AM

Yes, drilling before doors are assembled. The stiles are 2” wide, but making them wider wouldn’t solve the problem. There’s plenty of width for the hinge, the plastic jig just doesn’t allow enough room for the hinge to miss the dado. I’m using 35mm hinges from home depot. Don’t recall the brand but they’re the only ones i’ve seen there in the 10 packs.

View JdCustomfurniture's profile


13 posts in 3262 days

#6 posted 02-19-2011 03:02 PM

Its sounds like your putting the jig on the inside of the stile. 35mm and a 1/8’’ tab is 1 1/2’’. With a 2’’ stile it should be fine as long as your putting the jig on the outside of the stile. Hope this helps.

-- Whatever you do,work at it with all your heart,as working for the lord,not for men. ( Colossians 3:23 )

View Frankie Talarico Jr.'s profile

Frankie Talarico Jr.

353 posts in 3597 days

#7 posted 02-19-2011 03:22 PM

JD is right i think. From the outside edge is proper. And you should only have about an 1/8” from the edge before the cup hole starts(making sense?). Also its better to do it after assemble in case you have alignment problems. Also cab maker is right too. You would have better luck with a wider stile. we normally use 2 1/4”

I recommend making your own guide to fit your needs, its easy enough and will take about 10 mins. You’ll be more satisfied and it will be to your own standards.

-- Live by what you believe, not what they want you to believe.

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3309 days

#8 posted 02-19-2011 03:59 PM

You’re marking your layout from the outside edge, aren’t you? If you’re using the inside edge, it definitely won’t work.

I also drill my hinge cups after my doors are assembled.

I use those plastic marking guides all the time and never have a problem as long as my stiles are at least 2” wide. If I’m using narrower stiles, the cup holes will clip a bit of the panel but it doesn’t affect the door.

How much overlay are you trying to get? Those HD hinges seem to come in either 1/2” or 5/8” overlay, and you have to make sure that what you buy is what you need.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3888 days

#9 posted 02-19-2011 06:22 PM

Cup hinges are available in a lot of different patterns for different
offsets. A straight (not crank-neck) hinge lets you put the hinge
closer to the edge of the door.

The hinge mounts vary quite a lot too. I suggest that you’re
not getting the whole picture buying them at a hardware store –
get a catalog from Hafele or Blum and you’ll see the real variety

Professional cabinetmakers buy hinges from specialist suppliers that
stock 1000s of items. These suppliers put out huge catalogs and
will usually send the catalog free if you say you’re a pro.

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2895 days

#10 posted 02-20-2011 01:06 AM

Normal setback for concealed hinges is 5.5mm from the outside edge.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

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