Well, I hope I don’t get beat up too bad for this.
Here are the results of my attempt to control the blotching on maple.
I was going to order some of Charles Neil’s product but then I remembered the experience I had with shipping some water based contact adhesive in these really cold temps in the northeast. So, I looked around at what I had and tried some sealant that I had for years. It was used to seal a floor before applying self-stick tile. Well, it seems to have worked pretty well. One end of the wood in the picture was stained when I was trying to decide on a color. When I applied some MW oil stain it looked awful. I’m not sure which end it was anymore. But anyway, I applied some of the sealer to the middle and let it dry. No sanding before or after it dried but I did wet it good and wiped away the excess. I then applied stain again the next day. I have been accepting this problem for way too long. The other image is a table top that has box-store oak ply in the center and the same maple around the edges. All surfaces were treated with a 50/50 diluted mix, wetted good and wiped off the excess. I allowed it to dry overnight and then lightly sanded with 320 grit before applying the stain. After that dried for 24 hours, I applied 3 coats of water based poly. I’m not saying this is a good substitute for the stuff Charlie makes. I’ll probably get some of that when it gets warmer. He has a lot more experience at this than I do. What I am trying to show here is that there is a way to make these staining projects look a whole lot better. After spending so much time getting the wood just right, I hated what it looked like with just some light colored stain. Now I see what I was missing. I will be trying some pine projects again just to see how much better it can look.
-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com