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Sand blasting furniture instead of sanding or using chemical stripers

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Forum topic by TomCharlotte posted 02-18-2011 01:46 AM 79091 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TomCharlotte

2 posts in 2122 days


02-18-2011 01:46 AM

Has anyone ever used sandblasting media to remove worn finishes on a chair? I need to refinish 125 high back bar chairs for a restaurant and sanding is not feasible. I would like to know what media and equipment comes recommended. Thanks all!


11 replies so far

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3594 days


#1 posted 02-18-2011 01:55 AM

Look into “soda blasting.”
It’s much less destructive then sand blasting.
I’ve been using this technique on rustic furniture, barn wood and driftwood.

-- 温故知新

View peterrum's profile

peterrum

153 posts in 2146 days


#2 posted 02-18-2011 02:32 AM

I haven’t done it yet but i bought the material, crushed walnut shells. I have to wait till the weather warms up a bit to do it outside. From my research this is a good product for blasting wood. They use it on log homes. I bought mine to use on a piece of driftwood.

-- Carpe Diem

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 2535 days


#3 posted 02-18-2011 03:19 AM

Tom -

Look into soda blasting. It’s supposed to be good for max removal with min damage. Sand (or walnut shells) will probably be a bit harsh for your job. If the soda doesn’t do the job, you can aways move to something more aggressive.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View Gofor's profile

Gofor

470 posts in 3254 days


#4 posted 02-18-2011 04:19 AM

There are also varying grades of plastic media (some are quite hard just made of crushed clothing buttons, and some are graded softer) that will work better, as they are a finer grind. The big key is to regulating the air pressure, amount of blast media, and selecting the right sized orifice (tip) for the project at hand.

Set up a containment area so you can reclaim the media for reuse a few times. Wear a good dust respirator and eye protection as a minimum (as well as tyvek coveralls with all the seams taped). An air supplied hood (even the Tyvek type) will make the job much more tolerable, but make sure you have a certified breathable air source. Air from a regular air compressor will kill you: Either from carbon monoxide, or from the fine oil particles that will give you lymphatic pneumonia (oil filled lungs) that is not curable. An oil/water separator will not provide protection. It takes 3000 psi to push through the fine filters needed to remove the oil droplets.

Go

-- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730

View GregU's profile

GregU

18 posts in 2266 days


#5 posted 02-18-2011 04:28 AM

I’ve tried that before….but never again! Did that on an antique oak secretary years ago that I was going to refinish for an aunt. The face mask was cloudy from sandblasting metal, so I really couldn’t see as well as I should have. The softer grain figure ate away badly (or maybe I should say “easily”!), and I ruined the sides before I realized it. My aunt was NOT real happy and I was very embarrassed. Soda might work, but I’d stay away from sand. Find a reputable soda blaster who has done some wood and see what their experience has been. Greg

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KnotWright

252 posts in 2955 days


#6 posted 02-18-2011 04:37 AM

This is also a new “dry ice” blasting system they use for fire restoration and historic restoration projects I’ve seen on PBS. Its amazing what this product does. Strips paint from bricks without damaging them, takes the black off of burned wood without damaging the remaining wood.

Dryice Blasting

-- James

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tenontim

2131 posts in 3211 days


#7 posted 02-18-2011 05:33 AM

I would think-”fuzzy wood”. Walnut shells, plastic media are both used to blast steel and aluminum. Don’t know anything about the soda blasting. I think you’ll find the finishes on most old furniture is harder than the wood it’s applied to. Even the chemical strippers are hard on the wood. Don’t think I would want to try removing a finish by blasting, unless I’m going for the “weathered look”. This number of chairs would just about necessitate a dip tank with the required stripper. My $0.02.

View jmichaeldesign's profile

jmichaeldesign

66 posts in 2250 days


#8 posted 02-18-2011 05:35 AM

I have a friend that used sandblasting on furniture for the texture it would give him. If you’re looking for a smooth surface however your’re just going to create extra work for yourself. The lighter areas of the wood (summer growth) are much softer than the darker area (winter growth). You end up with a texture similar to driftwood. Try a chemical stripper to get the finish off, and then sand.

View Edziu's profile

Edziu

150 posts in 2518 days


#9 posted 02-18-2011 06:46 AM

I just did it this summer. We used ground/crushed corncobs for the media. It’s supposed to be softer than the wood, so it does not harm the wood. I ended up blasting at about 60-70 PSI and got a pretty good finish, there is sanding required afterwards, but it gets off anything in front of it. Work quickly and cover al ot of area, it will wear that wood away very quickly if you don’t pay attention.

View whit's profile

whit

246 posts in 3444 days


#10 posted 02-18-2011 07:02 AM

I use glass bead in a sandblasting cabinet but I’m not looking for a smooth finish. I do it to intentionally eat away at the softer grain and it’s incredibly effective. The problem is, like Edziu indicated, it’s a very fine line between “Hey, that looks nice.” to “WHAT THE @$%??!”.

Whit

-- Even if to be nothing more than a bad example, everything serves a purpose. cippotus

View Creativeblastman's profile

Creativeblastman

7 posts in 2244 days


#11 posted 02-25-2011 12:17 AM

I since want to test the different abrasives with wood and see the results of each type. I think that walnut shells would be good. You can see some of these other types of sandblasting media.

-- -Eric from http://www.sandblasterinfo.com/category/sand-blasting-news/

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