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How to make curly maple pop?

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Forum topic by SouthernBoy posted 02-17-2011 10:50 PM 7305 views 4 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SouthernBoy

38 posts in 1415 days


02-17-2011 10:50 PM

I am making a keepsake box for my wife.(my first real project.) And I am making it out of walnut and curly maple. I’ve seen many projects on LJ’s that has the maple just absolutley jumping out at you. What kind of finish would you recomend and how will it also effect the walnut?


27 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

7550 posts in 2301 days


#1 posted 02-17-2011 11:03 PM

Linseed and tung oil finishes have an incredible depth. I’d test out something
like Watco natural (it’s a “wipe on” varnish with a lot of linseed oil in it) and
see if you like the way it looks. You can lay on a lot of coats of it, and it builds
and dries faster than linseed oil. Anything with stain it it will probably work
against you in getting the effect you want.

After oil finish you can put a transparent finish over that for more protection.
Oil looks really cool but you have to make sure you get enough coats on so
it doesn’t end up looking “thirsty”.

Finishes that have an amber color, like shellac and spar varnish, tend to “pop”
the grain better than the colorless finishes in my opinion.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1704 days


#2 posted 02-17-2011 11:31 PM

In addition to Loren’s suggestion, and hes absolutely right, aniline dyes followed by an oil finish will make the fighur jump right out and grab you.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1346 days


#3 posted 02-17-2011 11:33 PM

I bet you’re looking at some aniline dye pieces. Aniline dyed tiger maple is hard to forget.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View matt garcia's profile

matt garcia

1830 posts in 2325 days


#4 posted 02-18-2011 01:35 AM

I like Tung Oil for a small project, it just makes figured maple sparkle! I think it may be too much work for a piece of furniture. In that case, dye BLO and Garnet Shellac!

-- Matt Garcia Wannabe Period Furniture Maker, Houston TX

View PhineasWhipsnake's profile

PhineasWhipsnake

77 posts in 1701 days


#5 posted 02-18-2011 01:37 AM

I’ve just finished a curly maple/bloodwood box. (My first Incra double-dovetail project). I used several coats of blonde shellac, and the figure on the maple is just spectacular.

-- Gene T

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 2780 days


#6 posted 02-18-2011 01:49 AM

I’m with Matt Garcia;
a little dye, a little drying oil(I too use real tung oil) and a nice top finish of shellac or oil-based varnish.

BTW: Watco Danish Oil is 75% solvent. The remaining 25% (the active ingredients) is a blend of linseed oil, soya oil, resin and a little colorant (like, Gilsonite). It is a highly diluted oil/resin blend, not a wiping varnish. That doesn’t mean that it can’t look good when used properly.

-- 温故知新

View closetguy's profile

closetguy

744 posts in 2545 days


#7 posted 02-18-2011 02:39 AM

View this video.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

View bigike's profile

bigike

4031 posts in 1941 days


#8 posted 02-18-2011 02:56 AM

closetguy got this is what method I use and it’s great cuz the more you add the better it is like the vid sayes.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View Millo's profile

Millo

543 posts in 1703 days


#9 posted 02-18-2011 08:24 AM

I’m VERY interested in knowing how you think using that Wood Whisperer’s method on that vid will affect the walnut, as I am actually making some VERY small projects w/ tiger maple and walnut. Would this darken the walnut too much, or will the shellac just stay in the pores after sanding? Thanks!

Not too long ago I read one of Charles Neil’s replies to a similar question right here @ Lumberjocks. He said one could use the Seal-A-Cell which would do a similar thing to amber (“blond”) shellac or boiled linseed oil to “pop the grain”.... so first BLO and then some clear topcoat, or Seal-a-cell then a topcoat? What would the main differences be?

Thanks!

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

1127 posts in 2523 days


#10 posted 02-18-2011 06:21 PM

the seal a cell dries well, and has some light ambering to it,( warming), BLO just takes so long to dry, if you really want to pop it, do the seal a cell, then a coat of blond shelllac…or seal coat, let the seal a cell dry over night.. and it will explode ,, then top coat as you wish,

View skippyland's profile

skippyland

158 posts in 1344 days


#11 posted 02-18-2011 06:48 PM

I have used, with great success a blend of tung oil, urethane, and naptha in thin wipe on coats…it makes you expect to “feel the waves”.

-- Skip from Batavia, purveyor of fine and exotic sawdust & chips.

View Millo's profile

Millo

543 posts in 1703 days


#12 posted 02-18-2011 07:10 PM

yeah, I was wondering if using a tine to enhance the grain would also kill a bit of its iridescence. You know how it changes color depending on light reflection? I was wondering if doing the shellac/transtint method (I already have their golden brown and red mahogany lying around) would make the curl obvious, but kill its iridescence.

Yes, “feel the waves” is a great to put it.

Charles, thanks for dropping by.

View Millo's profile

Millo

543 posts in 1703 days


#13 posted 02-23-2011 06:32 AM

I mean “tint”, not “tine”, but I think I’m going to go straight General Finishes Seal then Arm on the whole thing… cheers…

View donutslayer's profile

donutslayer

4 posts in 1263 days


#14 posted 04-04-2011 02:32 AM

Gents, thanks for the great info. I have tried what Charles Neil suggest in post #10 and it pops nicely. I just need to get the wood just a tad darker. Can Transtint be added to Seal-A-Cell or should I just mix it with alcohol then add a few coats of Seal-A-Coat?

View donutslayer's profile

donutslayer

4 posts in 1263 days


#15 posted 04-04-2011 02:33 AM

Gents, thanks for the great info. I have tried what Charles Neil suggest in post #10 and it pops nicely. I just need to get the wood just a tad darker. Can Transtint be added to Seal-A-Cell or should I just mix it with alcohol then add a few coats of Seal-A-Coat?

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