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Forum topic by StutzShop posted 11-06-2017 06:25 PM 556 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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StutzShop

4 posts in 40 days


11-06-2017 06:25 PM

Topic tags/keywords: blo danish oil pine flooring waterlox

We bought a old 1936 House with untouched Pine flooring, so we decided to make this into our final floor, started by sanding lightly the entire floor, followed by a combination of Danish Oil (Dark Walnut) and Ebony Minwax Stain. My question and or problem is that i have heard that since there was a solvent in the oil it will no longer allow additional oil to be applyed? I would like to add as much strength to the pine as possible before putting on the poly or waterlox as a finsh, still not sure what to use…. Please help with the finishing and making floor as durable as possible.

Thanks


18 replies so far

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bilyo

49 posts in 941 days


#1 posted 11-06-2017 07:46 PM

I’m certainly not an experienced finisher. But, I’ll tell you my experience with danish oil and stain. I have built several furniture pieces of cherry which has a reputation for blotchiness. I’ve found that if I start with a coat of danish oil, let it dry for a day, and then apply a gel stain, I get a smooth color with minimal or no blotching. There is no compatibility problem between the two oil products.

Having said that, I would first question what the original finish is. By “untouched” do you mean that it has never been finished? If not, your proposed process may work OK. If it has been finished, I think in 1936, it might have been an oil varnish or, maybe, shellac. And, who knows what might have been put on later. Unless you sand it to bare wood, I don’t think your proposed process is a good solution.

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chrisstef

17030 posts in 2844 days


#2 posted 11-06-2017 09:11 PM

The oil isnt adding any strength to the wood if youre talking about its ability to withstand dents or scratches. Thats all inherent to the species of lumber itself. You should be able to add oil until the pores of the wood will no longer accept it. Then youre going to need to let that stuff bleed out for a good little while before top coating. At least a week. As to durability its going to come from your top coat but you arent going to turn pine into hard maple ya know.

I would do some test spot in the corner of a couple closets before i would commit to doing the whole floor.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

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Hammerthumb

2796 posts in 1813 days


#3 posted 11-06-2017 09:36 PM

I would not put stain over Danish oil, and then a polyurethane on top. You might have adhesion problems. Before anyone disagrees with me, I’m talking about a floor that is walked on, not furniture.
Double staining a floor can create adhesion problems also.

Always do a test area first. Let it cure, score the area with a knife every 1/4” – with the grain, and horizontal to the grain. Apply masking tape to it, and peel it off. if the finish come off with the tape, it is not considered a durable finish and might have adhesion problems.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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jimintx

512 posts in 1423 days


#4 posted 11-06-2017 09:47 PM

I have pine follows in parts of my house, and know of many others. They were all installed using pine 1×12s, to reproduce a old style, colonial-era even, floor.

In every case, the boards are stained and left. I have known of them being waxed in one case or two, but not the ones in my place.

I love these pine floors, and would not ever think of putting any kind of finish like a poly on them. If an area gets worn from traffic, just do a little touch up re-staining. Simple to maintain, and very nice looking, imo.

-- Jim, Houston, TX

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Hammerthumb

2796 posts in 1813 days


#5 posted 11-06-2017 09:52 PM

Duraseal use to make a stain finish as jimintx describes. I am not sure if they do anymore. I agree with the wax part also.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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chrisstef

17030 posts in 2844 days


#6 posted 11-06-2017 11:52 PM

Hammerthumb would be the guy id ask first if were working on floors.

-- Its not a crack, its a casting imperfection.

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StutzShop

4 posts in 40 days


#7 posted 11-07-2017 06:28 PM

I wasnt planning on putting any more solvent/stain on the floor only BLO and then the finish.

So it sounds from the feedback that the BLO on top of the Danish Oil should be ok, but no more stain or solvent.

By untouched it looks like it was never finished, it loks like it was installed and then carpet was laid ove the floor.

Is there a recommented top coat? does waterlox protect like a poly or is there something else thats not crazy expensive but is very durable, i understand i cant turn pine to Maple but would like to protect it as much as i can.

Thanks for all the feed back to the new guy!! Also adding a picture of the floor after the Danish oil.

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Hammerthumb

2796 posts in 1813 days


#8 posted 11-07-2017 06:34 PM

As I said, the more stain, oil, etc. you put down, the more likely it is that you will have a failure of the top coat. I would not put down any BLO or anything else on top of the Danish oil. I would let that Danish oil cure out for a significant amount of time before coating with a top coat.
You could put a sealcoat of dewaxed shellac over the top of the Danish oil to assure adhesion if you are going to topcoat with poly. If you are going to use Tung oil, just make sure the Danish oil has cured out first.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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Hammerthumb

2796 posts in 1813 days


#9 posted 11-07-2017 06:37 PM

By Tung oil, I meant Waterlox.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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StutzShop

4 posts in 40 days


#10 posted 11-07-2017 07:30 PM

I did the danish oil on Friday and still need to get the waterlox for the finish so should be enough time. I assume when you say waterlox you mean the original according to their website, i also seen they have a urethane.

Could I put down the original and then the urathane or just one or the other.

How many coats? is there any sanding?

Thanks Hammerthumb

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Hammerthumb

2796 posts in 1813 days


#11 posted 11-07-2017 07:56 PM

I think you need to keep this simple. The more steps in your process, the more likely it will fail.
Urethane is more durable than Waterlox. So you have to make a decision of which one you want to use. Original is easier to apply. With urethane, there is a small window that you have to do the application of additional coats before you have to resort to abraiding the finish (sanding between coats – usually done with maroon pads and a buffer).
Read the directions of both products before you make your decision. The directions will tell you how many coats are recommended.
As I said, keep it simple. You don’t need Danish oil, stain, BLO, Watelox, and urethane on one floor. That is a recipe for disaster.
Most hardwood floors get sanded, stained, and coated with a couple of topcoats of flooring finish. I highly recommend you use a flooring finish as they are designed to take more abuse than a furniture finish and will last a lot longer. I try to never mix products of different manufactures. ie – Bona Kemi stain, and Bona Kemi finish. Duraseal stain, and Duraseal finish.
As others have stated, nothing you apply to the floor will make the wood harder. Pine will still dent more easily than maple. Keep it simple and good luck.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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Hammerthumb

2796 posts in 1813 days


#12 posted 11-07-2017 07:59 PM

One more thing, if you use urethane, do not wax it. You will never be able to re-coat it at a later date, and wax on top of urethane is to slick and someone will slip and hurt themselves.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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Rick_M

10634 posts in 2218 days


#13 posted 11-07-2017 08:11 PM

My suggestion is listen closely to Hammerthumb and follow his advice.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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Hammerthumb

2796 posts in 1813 days


#14 posted 11-07-2017 08:15 PM

Thanks Rick and Stef. I have been on a few hardwood floor jobs in my life.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

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jimintx

512 posts in 1423 days


#15 posted 11-07-2017 10:18 PM

I’m certainly listening to Hammerthumb here, but I do want to say that pine flooring is not hardwood flooring.

That photo of the pine floor above, that only has the oil on it, looks done to me. I still say that trying to put a topcoat on it isn’t needed, and might become something of a mess – either now, or in the future.

-- Jim, Houston, TX

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