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Forum topic by bilyo posted 11-06-2017 05:51 PM 387 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bilyo

41 posts in 937 days


11-06-2017 05:51 PM

I’ve just finished rebuilding an old oak china cabinet. I’’s not a valuable antique nor is it a particularly handsome piece, but it has been in the family for a long time. All of the pieces were grain filled and sanded prior to reassembly and then final sanded with 180 grit before applying a gel stain. After applying the stain, we (wife agrees) don’t like the results and have decided to paint it gloss black. I don’t have a lot of experience with spraying, but I do have a small gravity feed conversion gun and I’m thinking of using it for this.

My first question is about the best paint. After doing a little reading, It seems that the Sherwin Williams CAB-Acrylic Lacquer might be a good choice. I have zero experience with catalyzed finishes and I don’t think I want to start with this project. Are there other suggestions?

My next question is regarding application. My thought would be to first apply a seal coat of shellac over the stain I just applied. Would a primer be recommended on top of that or go straight to the lacquer?

Your suggestions would be appreciated.

OOPS! I just realized that the CAB-Acrylic Lacquer is clear only. So. What would you recommend? I guess I’m not partial to water borne or solvent. Fast drying would be a plus as I will be spraying in the carport (closed on 3 sides).


8 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4756 posts in 2328 days


#1 posted 11-06-2017 08:12 PM

Yes, a coat of shellac (Zinnser shellac based BIN is a very good primer) and then you won’t nee a primer. Consider using a good grade of 100% acrylic paint. No reason to deal with the hazards of catalyzed finishes, and a good acrylic will be very durable.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Ripper70

608 posts in 743 days


#2 posted 11-06-2017 08:26 PM

I’d suggest Sherman Williams’ ProClassic Interior Waterbased Acrylic-Alkyd. I discovered it here on LJ’s while researching for my own project and decided to go with it.

I’ve only ever used it with a mohair roller but, even so, had excellent results. It self-levels (if that’s the correct terminology) beautifully and I imagine using a good quality sprayer could yield the kid of results you’re looking for in a refinishing application.

BTW, it dries fast enough for multiple coats but you may want to give it a week or so for a full cure.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

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bilyo

41 posts in 937 days


#3 posted 11-06-2017 10:48 PM

Since posting my questions, I have spoken with a rep at the Sherwin Williams store and a local paint supplier called BLP. The SW rep said that all they have that would do what I need is their All Surface Alkyd. Although, I did notice that they have the ProClassic Acrylic Alkyd on the shelf, he didn’t offer any information on it and I wasn’t knowledgeable enough to ask.

The BLP rep said “Ah Ha”, we have just what you need. It is a DTM Acrylic Enamel. According to the data sheet, it is a high performance water based product suitable for industrial use and light marine use. Apparently it can be applied over almost any sound previous coating and can be brushed or sprayed. I haven’t yet found out what “DTM” means. Also, I wonder if this is a same or similar product to the acrylic alkyd product? I’ve also read that acrylic alkyd is difficult to spray.

Follow-up: Just found a website that said “DTM” means “Direct to Metal”.

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OSU55

1423 posts in 1824 days


#4 posted 11-07-2017 01:12 PM

Take a look at Target Coatings wb pigmented lacquers https://www.targetcoatings.com/product-category/water-based-pigmented-lacquers/. I dont paint much but have used this with great success. I use the clear lacquer extensively.

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bilyo

41 posts in 937 days


#5 posted 11-07-2017 02:51 PM

So far, the only product I’ve found that is both high gloss and available in quarts is the DTM Acrylic Enamel (also referred to as Acrylic Emulsion). Other products I’ve found on line or that you have kindly mentioned above are either in gallons or satin or both. The DTM will likely work just fine, but I’ll do a bit more shopping today to see what is available locally.

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Ripper70

608 posts in 743 days


#6 posted 11-07-2017 04:12 PM

True, the ProClassic doesn’t offer a gloss option. I forgot about that part of your post.

I wanted a gloss finish also, but to increase the durability of the piece, I added several coats of a gloss poly. I was satisfied with the results and figured the poly would offer the kind of protection that I thought the piece would require as it’s for use in the kitchen. You probably wouldn’t want to take the same approach because of the extra steps required but it did work for me.

Results below.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

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01ntrain

208 posts in 905 days


#7 posted 11-07-2017 05:58 PM

I just repainted some old oak cabinets. I agree with Ripper on the SW product, but I went with the Pro Classic acrylic enamal, not the alkyd. (Dark Green can) In my application, the alkyd wasn’t necessary. I TSP’d the cabinets, roughed them over with 180 and brushed on the paint, folllowed by a rolling with a dry sponge roller. Turned out awesome.

I have used the alkyd, as well….but it was with a LVLP setup for a big built-in job. It was a superior product, as well. I was told the difference for me was that the alkyd was better for spraying. But, honestly….if I had to do it over again, I probably would have followed my procedure from above. The finish was about the same for both.

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bilyo

41 posts in 937 days


#8 posted 11-09-2017 02:22 AM

Thanks for the photos. They look great.
I ended up getting a qt of the DTM acrylic emulsion. I’m now waiting for rainy weather to pass. Probably this week-end. I’ve brushed on a small area on the bottom to check for adhesion. Appears to be OK. I’ll let you know how it all works out

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