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Cleaning my RAS?

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Forum topic by Beginningwoodworker posted 02-15-2011 04:41 PM 1330 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3136 days


02-15-2011 04:41 PM

I picked up my 1950’s DeWalt MMB 23 RAS yesterday for $100. Here are the pictures here in my blog http://lumberjocks.com/Beginningwoodworker/blog/21325. I am wondering whats the best way to go about cleaning it and what products to use.


18 replies so far

View Dan's profile

Dan

3630 posts in 2343 days


#1 posted 02-15-2011 05:59 PM

Are you just looking to clean or completely restore?

All you should need for cleaning is some Simple Green, Mineral Spirits, Abrasive pads, and some WD 40 for the rust.

I would first spray some WD 40 on the rust and then scrub them with an Abrasive pad or a higher grit sand paper. If you do this your going to want to re-paint or protect the surface from rusting again.

Other wise just take it apart and clean with Mineral Spirits or Simple Green.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

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FaTToaD

393 posts in 2604 days


#2 posted 02-15-2011 06:05 PM

I got an old Craftsman RAS a while back and had to clean it as well. I took it apart, placing all the nuts, bolts, and small pieces in labeled zip lock backs. I took pictures before each step, especially of the wiring for the motor and switch, then I cleaned all the plastc pieces with 409 and water. I cleaned all the rusted metal parts with Krud Kutter rust remover. I basically just soaked them in a jar until the rust was removed then I rinsed, dryed, and coated them in WD40. Just as a heads up, don’t let them soak overnight or the rust remover will turn into a black/gray brick with all your pieces inside. Trust me, it’s not fun to remove all of them. I called the company that made the rust remover and they laughed, saying they had never heard of that before. I had to chisel all the parts ou and resoak them. Pretty funny now, but it wasn’t at the time. Hope this helps.

-- David

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Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3136 days


#3 posted 02-15-2011 09:16 PM

I am going to completely restore.

View teejk's profile

teejk

1215 posts in 2147 days


#4 posted 02-16-2011 01:00 AM

rust…old farmer’s trick is CocaCola!

for grease, Dawn dish soap solution.

otherwise, I think 220 or 300 grit wet/dry sandpaper, followed by gray metal primer and top coat that matches for the exposed metal pieces. Check out tractor paint (maybe older fords???). Surface doesn’t have to be pristine, it “fills” and it dries to the hardest paint you can find. Need some ventilation though since it contains touluene. Nuts/bolts etc try the Coke thing, otherwise rust remover of your choice followed by a trip to the wire brush on your bench grinder.

View HokieMojo's profile

HokieMojo

2103 posts in 3191 days


#5 posted 02-16-2011 01:06 AM

do you know how to do electrolysis?

View lilredweldingrod's profile

lilredweldingrod

2495 posts in 2570 days


#6 posted 02-16-2011 01:07 AM

OK CJ, you got the 411…Now git’er done. We are waiting. Rand

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Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3136 days


#7 posted 02-16-2011 01:08 AM

Never try electrolysis.

View popmandude's profile

popmandude

109 posts in 2483 days


#8 posted 02-16-2011 01:09 AM

BW
Delphi forums has a forum just for old dewalt RAS. A lot of great info there. Do a good share of studyin before you tear into your saw. Them old dewalts have set-screws hidin everywhere.
Good luck with the restore
Randy

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Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3136 days


#9 posted 02-16-2011 01:31 AM

I am not going tear the hold saw down. It dont need it.

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2637 days


#10 posted 02-16-2011 02:01 AM

”Them old dewalts have set-screws hidin everywhere.”

Amen.

And if you look at them cross-eyed (I can’t help it (!)), they’ll snap.

I’ve been lucky, so far, but … I used a LOT of penetrating oil, and let it sit. Then, I used either the hex wrench, or screwdriver (whichever was appropriate), and a sharp rap of a hammer, before trying to turn them.

I probably should have brought them ALL to Fastenal and just replaced them. They’re cheap.

Instead, I cleaned them up well, and then put synthetic grease (or … on a couple … anti-seize) before replacing them.

-- -- Neil

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Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3136 days


#11 posted 02-16-2011 02:09 AM

Neil, you tore your hold RAS down.

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4808 posts in 2637 days


#12 posted 02-16-2011 02:15 AM

I would say I tore it about 75% of the way down.

I cleaned and lubricated everything. I did remove the column from ITS base, but didn’t remove the base OF the column from the boxy base of the saw.

There was a little bit of play in the crank that raises and lowers the radial arm.

Not any more, though :-)

-- -- Neil

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Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3136 days


#13 posted 02-16-2011 02:42 AM

More RAS’s only needs a good cleaning. I am repainting my, because it has a bad paint job on it now.

View brianinpa's profile

brianinpa

1812 posts in 3186 days


#14 posted 02-16-2011 03:27 AM

CJ your saw doesn’t look too bad. It doesn’t look too rusty, so you should be able to get by with just a thorough cleaning, light scrubbing with a wire brush, some sanding, and a new paint job.

-- Brian, Lebanon PA, If you aren’t having fun doing it, find something else to do.

View HokieMojo's profile

HokieMojo

2103 posts in 3191 days


#15 posted 02-16-2011 05:32 AM

CJ,
If you are gonna paint, you really will need to tear it down most of the way. If you accidentally get paint on the parts that shouldn’t have paint, it will affect the accuracy.

The reason I was thinking about electrolysis is it would give you a great surface for painting. I think a soft cup brush on a drill might knock off enough rust to allow for a good paiint job too.

If I were you though, I’d give the saw a good scrub with a scotchbright sponger and a little evaporust. MY guess is you will decide it isn’t worth painting. I think the paintjob is probably better than you think. The rust just makes it look rougher than it is.

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