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Question about T2 Fence

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Forum topic by Glassonion posted 10-30-2017 04:56 PM 280 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Glassonion

3 posts in 42 days


10-30-2017 04:56 PM

I’ve had a Delta T2 fence tucked in the corner of the shop for a few years and I finally decided I should get around to installing it on my Rockwell contractor’s saw.
Last night I went to get started and realized I don’t have the back rail. It either went missing or I didn’t get it when I bought the fence years ago from Craigslist.

I know I could get some angle and cut/drill it to fit myself, but I was wondering if anyone has used the T2 without a back rail, just adding a plastic slider under the back of the fence to allow it ride on the table top?

Thanks!


6 replies so far

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jonah

1443 posts in 3132 days


#1 posted 10-30-2017 05:24 PM

You should be able to add a UHMW runner that slides along the table without any problem. The rear rail does help to keep the table wings aligned, but it’s not strictly necessary for the fence to function.

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GrizzlyBagWorks

80 posts in 1425 days


#2 posted 10-30-2017 05:41 PM

I have the T2 on my Ridgid R4512. You don’t need the rear rail. Add a strip of UHWM or even a little block of wood with a felt furniture glide under the fence and you’re good. Just make sure the piece is as wide as possible so it can jump the miter slot gap.

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ErichK

79 posts in 497 days


#3 posted 10-30-2017 05:45 PM

In the case of the T2 you still DO want the rear rail. The front “L” is flexible enough that locking the fence will cause appreciable lift in the rear. This lift was causing quite a bit of change in the set position when locking it. You can avoid this by making sure you keep your hand on the top of the fence when you lock it.

If you want to use it without the rail, jonah’s suggestion for UHMW is a good one. You can get self-adhesive up to 1/16” thick, or just buy a small bit of a thicker material and glue it yourself.

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Glassonion

3 posts in 42 days


#4 posted 10-30-2017 06:02 PM

Thanks for the suggestions, all.

I am not so worried about the table wings – I can actually leave the current bracket on them if I’m not adding the rear rail.

Thanks for the lift suggestion Erich, although I don’t see how the rear rail would have helped that much. From my initial glance at it the fence just has a block that rides on the rear rail but nothing that would keep it from lifting up even if that were there. Could be mine is missing something or is an early version.

I have some pieces of UHMW in varying widths from another project – I’ll see which of them looks to be the best option.

How much space do you all usually leave between the bottom of the fence and the table? I was going to shoot for as little as possible to help when ripping thin stock, but I’ve never really messed with the height or used any non-stock fence.

-M

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ErichK

79 posts in 497 days


#5 posted 10-30-2017 06:08 PM


Thanks for the lift suggestion Erich, although I don t see how the rear rail would have helped that much. From my initial glance at it the fence just has a block that rides on the rear rail but nothing that would keep it from lifting up even if that were there. Could be mine is missing something or is an early version.

FWIW, I had a T3, so perhaps the design changed.

I see this here, which claims to be a T2: https://goo.gl/images/kbCtdH

You can see the hook in that picture, which is supposed to ‘hook’ around the rear rail. IDK why he mounted his rail upside down in that picture however.

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Glassonion

3 posts in 42 days


#6 posted 10-30-2017 06:11 PM

Ahhh. Not sure if mine had that or not.
I’ll take a peek at it again tonight.

I think for the sake of getting the thing installed sooner rather than later I’ll try without the rear rail and if the lift is driving me nuts I’ll dig out some scrap angle iron and make a rear rail for it.

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