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Polyurethane or Lacquer Over Latex Paint

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Forum topic by BryanFaz posted 10-30-2017 04:52 AM 549 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BryanFaz

33 posts in 337 days


10-30-2017 04:52 AM

Topic tags/keywords: lacquer poly latex paint cornhole boards question

I have built a set of cornhole boards, plywood tops, which I have painted with a Sherwin Williams latex paint. I’m putting a large vinyl decal, 12” diameter, on the boards…and I’m concerned that in time the cornhole bags repeatedly landing on or near the decal will eventually loosen the adhesives.

I haven’t used lacquer enough to have any comfort with it. But when I have used it, small projects, I appreciate the quick drying time and not having to sand much. Yes it stinks. I have an unopened can of brushing lacquer that I am tempted to use…unless it is recommended that I don’t use it. I do have an HVLP sprayer so I could spray the lacquer if preferred. I have read differing opinions about the wisdom of spraying brushing lacquer.

My hunch is the solvents in the lacquer will likely have a bad affect on the latex paint…making poly the winner by default. But hoping to hear some wisdom and experiences from you folks.

Thanks!!!!
Bryan


19 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4757 posts in 2330 days


#1 posted 10-30-2017 10:55 AM

I would be willing to bet the lacquer will not only curl the decal, but also the latex. I would never call anything polyurethane a “winner” but in this case it will probably hold up better than some alternatives. The amber coloring might be distasteful though. Consider using a waterborne, even an exterior paint base (SW A100 made for deep colors) that isn’t tinted. Right out of the can it will dry clear and be almost as durable as an oil based finish…it will be crystal clear.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2686 days


#2 posted 10-30-2017 12:31 PM

Bryan, can’t speak to the lacquer question, but have done multiple painted pieces for use in our church and my wife’s elementary school. Both locations put extreme wear on the finishes, another LJ recommended a WB poly over the latex paint and that it holds up very well. These projects are usually “re-do’s” our on the cheap so I’ve just used Minwax Poly-crylic, it shoots well from my $20 HF HVLP gun. The church project I shot it over white latex and there was no yellowing of the color.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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BryanFaz

33 posts in 337 days


#3 posted 10-30-2017 12:43 PM

Excellent Fred!!!

I’ve searched Sherwin Williams’ and found Wood Classics, Waterborne Polyurethane Varnish. Is that the product?

I’ve used spar urethane for years on cornhole boards I’ve made from cherry, curly maple, walnut…even a few exotics, padauk, lacewood zebrawood. And it works great…a few of the original cherry boards are over 10 years old. No degradation at all in the finish. (Oh…I waxed the boards too.) But the spar was applied over oil, primarily. My paint experience is limited. In this instance I really don’t want any tinting at all from the topcoat. The paint matches the decal.

I have a few days to decide while the paint dries fully. Well, maybe a day. Ha.

Thanks!!!!!

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SpartyOn

28 posts in 1983 days


#4 posted 10-30-2017 01:03 PM

Bryan, I have made a few sets of cornhole boards and applied latex paint and decals, as well. The first set I made I used oil based poly and did not know that the sun will cause the poly to yellow. My beautiful boards aren’t so beautiful anymore. The other sets I’ve made I used water based poly and they’ve held up very well and still look great.

Jim

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BryanFaz

33 posts in 337 days


#5 posted 10-30-2017 01:09 PM

ChefHDAN and SpartyOn…thank you guys as well!!!!

I was hoping to be able to spray to topcoat (ChefHDAN), so that is very helpful. Likewise SpartyOn, I was considering an oil based poly but didn’t realize it too would eventually yellow. Also great intel on the oil- and water-based poly.

Thanks a ton!!!!!

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ChefHDAN

992 posts in 2686 days


#6 posted 10-30-2017 01:31 PM

BTW The WB polycrylic shoots right out of the can, no thinning.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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tomsteve

666 posts in 1056 days


#7 posted 10-30-2017 01:32 PM


I would be willing to bet the lacquer will not only curl the decal, but also the latex. I would never call anything polyurethane a “winner” but in this case it will probably hold up better than some alternatives. The amber coloring might be distasteful though. Consider using a waterborne, even an exterior paint base (SW A100 made for deep colors) that isn t tinted. Right out of the can it will dry clear and be almost as durable as an oil based finish…it will be crystal clear.

- Fred Hargis

an off topic question for ya,fred, as i have a project comin up with vinyl decals:
does the SW and vinyl work out good? as in, is the adhesion good?

bryan, i think fred is referring to this:
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/a100-exterior-acrylic-latex

one thing with waterbased/bourne clear topcoats is that they typically dont change the shade/color or darken the paint they are covering. as in they dont darken them- at least not too much.
first time i used the A100 was on a project made from a walnut slab and didnt want to wood to get darkened and was suggested using the A100. the walnut barely darkened.
ive been using the A100 on exterior projects since. some painted and it doesnt darken the paint its covering.
and it holds up better than any other finish ive used in the past. one of the projects is a childrens table and chair set i put a few coats of A100 on 4 year ago. they sit outside all summer and the finish is still holding up good.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4757 posts in 2330 days


#8 posted 10-30-2017 01:42 PM



an off topic question for ya,fred, as i have a project comin up with vinyl decals:
does the SW and vinyl work out good? as in, is the adhesion good?

- tomsteve

Sorry, no first hand experience. I would be suspect of the adhesion over a vinyl decal.


Excellent Fred!!!

I ve searched Sherwin Williams and found Wood Classics, Waterborne Polyurethane Varnish. Is that the product?

Thanks!!!!!

- BryanFaz


Bryan, that’s not what i referred (AW100 is just a paint they carry), but that stuff should work. The only thing is that you would want to check the label to see if it’s tinted…some waterborne finishes are, some aren’t, to mimic an oil base finish. They won’t shift over time (get darker) like an oil base, but still may not be appealing on your boards.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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tomsteve

666 posts in 1056 days


#9 posted 10-30-2017 01:43 PM

p.s.
youll probably have to go right to a SW store to get the A100.

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BryanFaz

33 posts in 337 days


#10 posted 10-30-2017 02:10 PM

Please let me make sure I didn’t take a wrong turn here. When you suggested I consider “waterborne” I assumed you meant as a topcoat over the acrylic latex paint I already used. i.e., a water-based polyurethane. I actually used SW Resilience, which is an exterior acrylic latex paint very similar to A100 (I’m told).

I’m guessing you were referring to any water-based polyurethane?

Forgive the confusion!!!!

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Fred Hargis

4757 posts in 2330 days


#11 posted 10-30-2017 02:22 PM

Confusion reigns when finishes are involved, thanks to the manufacturers. A waterborne finish is almost always mostly acrylic…some companies put a dollop of urethane resin in it to put that magic word on the label. So, almost any waterborne finish (sometimes called water based) will be clear, unless it’s tinted (as in paint) or dyed (the ones labeled “polyurethane”). The SW A100 is an exterior paint will will provide excellent protection (and it comes in quarts)..plus it has UV inhibitors. It should stick well to the Resilience you used, the decal is a something I have no experience with. Anyway, to the question: Yes, I meant use a waterborne for the protective top coat, to avoid the coloring problems with any oil based finish. If the amber color of an oil base doesn’t bother you, use one of them. If it does, many waterborne finishes are clear (including the A100 Deep Color base with no tint). Those that aren’t usually indicate they are colored on the label.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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BryanFaz

33 posts in 337 days


#12 posted 10-30-2017 03:44 PM

Sounds great Fred…thank you!!!

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cracknpop

259 posts in 2186 days


#13 posted 10-31-2017 02:33 AM

I believe you have been given very good info above.

Regarding your question of spraying lacquer over latex… I sprayed lacquer over latex on cabinets and shelves for a ‘coffee bar’ area. It has held up very well for several years now.

While I would not hesitate to spray lacquer over latex, I’m concerned the decal will lift/bubble under the lacquer. However, a good decal will adhere very nicely to lacquer (think decals on cars and trucks). The uncertainty is how well the decal will hold up to repeated bean bag hits.

-- Rick - I know I am not perfect, but I will keep pressing on toward the goal of becoming all I am called to be.

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BryanFaz

33 posts in 337 days


#14 posted 10-31-2017 03:14 AM

Hello cracknpop!! Where in Southern Indiana are you from? i live in Madisonville, in (South) Western Kentucky.

Anyway, thanks for your thoughts!! I am concerned as well with the decal holding up to repeated cornhole bags landing on or adjacent to them. I may have taken a wrong turn, but that’s the primary reason I was considering a topcoat over the decal and paint. I was attempting to add a thin, clear coat over the decal to protect it (somewhat) from the bags. But, I certainly don’t want to cause the decal to lift/bubble. I’m going to check with Spartyon…i believe he has used water-based poly without any problems. That’s the direction I’m leaning now…

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pontic

502 posts in 445 days


#15 posted 10-31-2017 03:23 AM

The other way around isn’t so good is it? I mean painting latex over oil based poly?

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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