Frozen bolts, Can't change the knives

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Forum topic by qmass posted 02-14-2011 03:12 PM 1434 views 1 time favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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24 posts in 2403 days

02-14-2011 03:12 PM

I have a Delta thickness planer (snipe machine) Model 22-540 Type 2. I’d like to replace this old thing but money is tight. Tried to change the blades but one of the bolts on each knife is frozen. Tried needle nose vice grips after nearly rounding of the bolt. Just can’t get it to budge. No problems with any of the other bolts. Don’t want to invest too much more into this planer. I d like one with less snipe eventually.
thank you in advance for any help

-- Finally know what I want to be when I grow up

21 replies so far

View 489tad's profile


3099 posts in 2475 days

#1 posted 02-14-2011 03:38 PM

Try a penetrating oil or spray. If you still can get a socket on the head use that, (if there iis room too). You might end up removing the head and drill into the screw and use an “easy out”. good luck.

-- Dan, Naperville IL, I.G.N.

View Manitario's profile


2399 posts in 2346 days

#2 posted 02-14-2011 04:14 PM

WD-40 and heat; you can use a small torch, like a propane plumbers’ torch to heat the bolt up.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View HorizontalMike's profile


7146 posts in 2377 days

#3 posted 02-14-2011 04:29 PM

Another option is to drill the bolt and use an EZ-out bolt extractor. As we all know, some caution/care should be taken when using these. Here is some guy’s ad for his business, but this ad does point to some of the mistakes that can occur when using EZ-outs.

Is it possible to completely remove the cutter head and place it in a vice for better access? (just a suggestion)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View hvroberts's profile


40 posts in 2745 days

#4 posted 02-14-2011 04:30 PM

You can always go to Sears and get a special socket that will grab hold of bolts and remove them. Than you will have the socket to use over & over. I have used the with great success. You will find them quite handy.

-- Hvroberts, Up North In Maine

View dbhost's profile


5605 posts in 2695 days

#5 posted 02-14-2011 04:35 PM

Try this old mechanics trick… Spray it down with penetrating oil and let it soak. After 10 minutes or so, take a socket extension, or other metal shaft sized to cover the bolt head, hold it up to the bolt head, and tap it a few good taps with ball peen or other not too terribly heavy hammer. You are just trying to jar any rust that might be in the threads loose…

-- My workshop blog can be found at

View steliart's profile


1817 posts in 2151 days

#6 posted 02-14-2011 04:51 PM

Drill, reverse tap, WD40 and unscrew

-- Stelios L.A. Stavrinides: - I am not so rich to buy cheap tools, but... necessity is the mother of inventions - --

View HokieMojo's profile


2103 posts in 3191 days

#7 posted 02-14-2011 04:59 PM

PB Blaster has worked well for me using the spray, let soak, repeat method. It can take a few days of occasionally spraying, but it always eventually frees up

View hairy's profile


2384 posts in 2995 days

#8 posted 02-14-2011 05:07 PM

There is a chance the threads could be left-handed. You might be actually making it tighter. I don’t know that to be a fact about your machine, but it is not uncommon.

OOPS! I see you got the rest out. Sorry! This is the best penetrating oil made.

-- stay thirsty my friends...

View rowdy's profile


375 posts in 2906 days

#9 posted 02-14-2011 06:50 PM

I have had the same problem with my old Delta. My solution was to spray with a penetrating oil, let sit for a while, and then use a chisel and hammer to tap on the edge of the bolt head, chisel more or less parallel to the cutter head and knife. The chisel bites into the side of the bolt head and provides a twisting torque on the bolt. That combined with the vibration created when one strikes the chisel loosens the bolt in my experience. Leaves a divot in the bolt head, but at least it comes loose.

-- Rowdy in Kechi, Kansas

View qmass's profile


24 posts in 2403 days

#10 posted 02-14-2011 07:53 PM

Awesome suggestions
Don’t know how many times I made sure i was turning in the right/wrong direction. Funny after all these years ya still mentally check the ole righty tighty lefty loosey.
Easyouts are out, you can’t get in there
Never heard of PB Blaster! Got to get me some of that. I have some WD on it for a couple of days and i’ve tried the chisel and hammer. Before I reach for the Dremel i’ll try that heat trick, and stop by Sears great help! I thank you all very much.

-- Finally know what I want to be when I grow up

View dbray45's profile


3186 posts in 2240 days

#11 posted 02-14-2011 08:12 PM

This is a trick I learned on engines. If it is an allen screw, heat a piece of an allen wrench that fits into the screw head almost red hot and put it into the head of the screw, count to about 10 slowly, then tap the screw with a hammer – doesn’t have to be hard, then apply pressure to tighten, then twist to loosen. This has worked more times than not. The idea of heating the piece of allen wrench or screw driver is that you won’t change the temper of the blade – or working on an engine, you don’t want to start a fire with a torch.

Good luck

-- David in Damascus, MD

View Manitario's profile


2399 posts in 2346 days

#12 posted 02-14-2011 08:56 PM

David, that’s a really good trick; I may have lit an engine on fire once with an acetylene torch after soaking it with WD40….

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View dbray45's profile


3186 posts in 2240 days

#13 posted 02-14-2011 09:27 PM

If you put a red hot piece of metal to WD40, it will ignite – so be careful.

-- David in Damascus, MD

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 2344 days

#14 posted 02-14-2011 09:28 PM

dbhost- An old mechanics trick indeed. I once had an old Jeep that I went to start one day and it would not start. A friend of mine who works on cars advised me to tap on the starter a few times with a hammer. I did just that and it fired right up. I guess something got seized up in the starter.

The bolt should come out with enough oil and torque. Cutting it or drilling it out would be my last resort.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View dbhost's profile


5605 posts in 2695 days

#15 posted 02-14-2011 10:00 PM

My first career was as a mechanic… Brake drum retaining bolts tend to rust in place. We used to take a shorty socket extension right on the bolt, give it 3 or 4 sharp raps with a ball peen hammer and the bolts backed right out every time. Mazda’s were the worst for that. Do they still make cars with drum brakes? It’s been a while…

-- My workshop blog can be found at

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