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Bandsaw upper wheel bearing, loose fit in bore...

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Forum topic by jeth posted 10-28-2017 11:54 PM 423 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jeth

256 posts in 2673 days


10-28-2017 11:54 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw bearings fix question

Hello Lumberjocks.. been a while once again, I’m afraid I am like one of those “friends” who only shows up when his mrs has thrown him out and he’s broke…
I’m not broke (and my mrs hasn’t got past the threat stage) but will be very soon if I can’t sort out a problem with my bandsaw. I rarely get to even browse the forum these days, let alone participate..so sorry to take advantage but….

So.. my bandsaw has been throwing the blade, and the tires with increasing frequency, at first I thought it might be a lack of tension due to an old and tired spring, or the equally old and tired tires.. Until today, when the problem got violently worse (an hour trying to make one 2.5ft long cut).. checking things out I noticed a knocking sound on each revolution, disconnected the drive pulleys and removed the blade in order to isolate it and I noticed that the upper wheel bearings are loose in the bore in the cast wheel. There is probably about a 1/64” of play. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure they should be, and were, a tight fit.

So.. is it likely that this is the cause of the problem and what can I do to fix it..? I am praying someone has an idea that doesn’t involve ordering expensive parts and waiting a possibly very long time for customs to feel like processing them.. I rely on my tools for my living and I am working in a third world economy so is there a cheap fix?


15 replies so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

8297 posts in 1321 days


#1 posted 10-29-2017 12:41 AM

Shim with strips of aluminum can. If you can see the tire has slack when running it would probably be a good idea to change it.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Richard Lee's profile

Richard Lee

56 posts in 610 days


#2 posted 10-29-2017 01:09 AM

http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8802627715073
Unless you want to have it properly fixed,Loctite works well,use the right product.
Shims will not last because you cant get it tight enough.
Or have the wheel bored and sleeved or bored to the next size bearing.

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TheFridge

8297 posts in 1321 days


#3 posted 10-29-2017 01:28 AM

I shim it so it has to be pressed in. Otherwise it would still spin.

Edit: I have shim stock so it’s easier for me.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View recycle1943's profile

recycle1943

1505 posts in 1457 days


#4 posted 10-29-2017 11:02 AM

Bearing failure most likely caused the whobble issue so there will most likely be more issue arise. The first thing I would investigate is the age of the band saw. Bandaids work great on a cut or scratch but mechanical failures can bring on a chain effect. What is next – perhaps a complete rebuild would be the long term answer especially if the saw is an expensive (initially) item.
If it has no real value ie: industrial model, grandpa’s hand me down etc then maybe a replacement is in order. There are too many good band saw’s available at reasonable prices to have the unreliability factor hanging over your head every time you want to cut something.
jmho

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4802 posts in 3796 days


#5 posted 10-29-2017 02:21 PM

I would try the Loctite first. Use the RED Loctite. Be sure to “center” the bearing with a few toothpicks around the circumference to hold it in place ‘till the Loctite is fully cured.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1207 posts in 1565 days


#6 posted 10-29-2017 03:06 PM

If you could say what the model is on your saw, someone else might have had the same problem and could give you a good answer to the bearing problem.
As far as the tires being loose, back in ‘81, I tossed mine and took the wheels to a shop and had them vulcanize tires to them. Look for a business in your town that might do that, or maybe know of another place that might. If you do find someone to get it done, figure about 2 weeks down time on your saw…............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

View jeth's profile

jeth

256 posts in 2673 days


#7 posted 10-29-2017 05:13 PM

Thanks for all the replies folks.. Replacing the saw is not an option.. if I were to start saving now I would be waiting till this time next year, and in order to earn, and save..I need my saw running! So bandaid fix it is… doing things “right” isn’t always an option :( @recycle.. sadly there are not many bandsaws available here, and prices are not so reasonable when you earn $30USD a day tops… Living with that unreliability factor is just part of life here!

I have searched about and it seems there is no supplier of loctite locally so I think I will have to try shimming for now and see how far it gets me..
Though having searched and read around I have found quite a few auto forums where people mention using jbweld on this kind of repair (though it seems wherever jbweld is mentioned the responses always swing between the believers and the doubters)... I have some of the grey jbweld which contains metal filings.. Could it be up to the job? It probably sets harder than the aluminium the wheel is made from? The thing that concerns me is if i will have trouble removing the bearing for future changes..any advice on recasting the bore without the bearing getting stuck in it?

@Nubsnstubs.. I think the tires being thrown was down to the excessive wobble that developed as the bearing worked loose.. so hope not to have to find a further fix for that, but thanks for the suggestion.

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

910 posts in 1396 days


#8 posted 10-29-2017 05:21 PM

I had a bandsaw wheel that the bearing hole was a little loose and I smeared some JB weld on the inside sanded down the rough spots and pressed in the bearing and it’s now tight and still working fine after a few years.

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10613 posts in 2215 days


#9 posted 10-29-2017 06:18 PM

What you really need is a pair of calipers so you can determine if the wheel hole or bearing are wrong. Might just need new bearings or if the hub is wallowed out then something bad is going on. Could be someone used the wrong bearing previously.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View recycle1943's profile

recycle1943

1505 posts in 1457 days


#10 posted 10-29-2017 07:20 PM

Jeth,
My apologies – I forgot your geographic location. If I thought it would get thru customs, I’d send you some loctite. Maybe you can look into that and let me know. I also have 2 JB weld kits, both of them are only half full but you can have one of them as well.
Let me know -be happy to mail it to you

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View jeth's profile

jeth

256 posts in 2673 days


#11 posted 10-29-2017 07:32 PM

Thanks for further replies.. especially Dick… a very generous offer, thank you for that..Not sure if customs would pass it but by any means I need to get this fixed asap and get some work done! Just working on a makeshift extractor to get the wheel off the shaft..had to be Sunday, when even a handful of bolts is hard to come by round here.

@Rick.. Good point but it is obviously the wheel bore itself that has become enlarged.. The bearings are original since new, though I did pull them once.. I can see where the alu wheel has worn.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

5990 posts in 2034 days


#12 posted 10-29-2017 08:05 PM

The bearings are original since new, though I did pull them once.. I can see where the alu wheel has worn.

About the only reason for the bore to get tore up like that is bad bearings… so I would replace them regardless of what other fix you may wind up doing. Shims would be my first attempt. Loc-tite or JB weld would be next. Either way, you will most likely wind up with a wheel that is out of balance unless you can get it centered perfectly – which is rather hard to do but not impossible. Crowing the tires after the fix would help minimize some of that. Once you get it running again, I’d start looking far and wide for a replacement wheel.

Hmmm… black-market band saw parts maybe :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10613 posts in 2215 days


#13 posted 10-29-2017 08:21 PM



@Rick.. Good point but it is obviously the wheel bore itself that has become enlarged.. The bearings are original since new, though I did pull them once.. I can see where the alu wheel has worn.
- jeth

If the bearing is failing, the inner race could be moving around causing the bearing to deform. If you simply shim it, the damage will get worse until the bearing fails completely and meanwhile the saw will run like crap. You could replace the bearing and see if the new one fits and that will confirm whether it’s the bearing or hole but it seemed like a good excuse to buy a caliper. If it’s moving enough to actually deform the hub, then something bad is happening and a shim or Loctite will be a temporary fix. I suppose if there is a lot of blade tension it could deform the hub, if it’s made of pot metal or cheap aluminum. I guess it depends on the value. If it’s worth keeping then I would want to know the cause so I could fix it. If you just want to burn it up and throw it away then shim it and live with a poor running bandsaw.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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jeth

256 posts in 2673 days


#14 posted 10-29-2017 10:01 PM

@Brad, understood but I need a band aid on it to get work out of the door for now, a bodge is the only option.. but if the fix turns out to be temporary then it may not be too costly here to get it bored out and sleeved.. The disadvantage of living in this economy is earning so little that even minor investments in equipment are major…the advantage is that other labour comes cheap.. I have a machine shop round the block who have done several repairs for me at reasonable cost.. recently had a new drain nipple brazed onto my compressor tank.. about $5USD…

@Rick.. Ye, I had assumed the root cause was a worn bearing in the first place and planned to replace. I think your comment that it would be a good excuse to buy a caliper demonstrates well the difference in thinking, and reality, between third and first world economies.. (I’ve lived in both..English born, now based in Central America) In the first world one thinks about the best or ideal outcome, in the third world you just think how to get through.. a half decent caliper would cost me half a weeks income.. and with this week going as it is, I’m not even going to be making that…. Thanks anyway for all your advice and the time taken to share!

View jeth's profile

jeth

256 posts in 2673 days


#15 posted 10-31-2017 04:50 PM

Just to let all the kind folk who offered up there 2 pence on this.. I have got it running and am hoping this band-aid will stay stuck long enough to get some work done…
In the end the hardest part was getting the damn wheel off the shaft! I spent most of sunday messing about with G-clamps bits of plywood trying to budge it… being sunday even a handful of bolts to rig a decent semblance of an extractor was off limits… In the end I waited on monday morning and took it to a machine shop, whose extractor wouldn’t move it either so they destroyed the bearing with a soldering plant wound up to full current..Messy but the wheel and shaft assembly were parted.

From there I punched the inside walls of the bearing seat (with an old self tapping roofing screw) to create raised points, smeared some epoxy charged with metal filings around and put the bearings in. Overnight drying and have just installed, adjusted and run the saw.. Running far smoother and seems to be tracking well.. Have checked and the bearings are very well centered..

Now, after 3 days downtime, I ahd better get some work done..!

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