Zero Clearance, Make my own?

I use hardboard usually but sometimes I make a more elaborate insert
out of voidless plywood like baltic birch or Appleply. The hardboard tends
to be very close to 1/4” thick and pretty stable in all directions so it
makes a good insert material. Most 1/4” plywood is no good for inserts.

solid wood, plywood, mdf, or some synthetic material will all work, each probably has different durability ratings but for me availability dictates what I use, when you make one you might as well make several while you are at it

I made mine from purple heart and curlly maple

-- Dave..Pensacola Fl.........In GOD we trust

I usually make mine out of baltic birch plywood 1/2” thick. Solid wood could change due to humidity. Here is a pretty good video on how to make a zci in general.

If it’s for a miter saw or something that requires a 1/4” thick stock I usually use 1/4” HDF. Actually I have a lot of scrap laminate flooring that i’ve kept for that very reason.

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/90/videos/making-a-zero-clearance-insert/

Kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY

They are very easy to make. Like Kevin I usually make them from 1/2 inch baltic birch ply. I also use mdf. I use the insert that came with the saw as a template. I use double stick tape to affix the insert to the stock. I cut it to rough size on the bandsaw and then bring it to final size on router table with a pattern bit. I put set screws around the perimeter of the insert to adjust the height. I usually make several at a time. One for regular sawing, some for making joints, and some for varous dado thicknesses. For regular sawing I cut a kerf behind the back of a blade and glue in a piece of hardwood to act as a splitter.

-- Glen

For my particular table saw, 1/2” ply works great. I drill four holes to add the ajusters I need for that last little bit of height. And a bit of paste wax on the ZCI works wonders.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

What about making a zero clearance insert for an old craftsman 10” saw that uses a flimsy sheet of metal for the plate?

-- ~Larry Columbus, OH

I used hardboard for mine and am very happy so far. A little tape on the bottom to get it flush works very well for me.

-- Measure once, cut twice.

Larry: I’ve got a Craftsman contractor’s saw that uses the thin plates, and I always wondered that too. Don’t know where I read it, but some have made them out of thicker material, then rabbited around the insert so it fit flush. I haven’t studied my saw/plate yet to see how that will work out. I bought a General cabinet saw since I read that, so I might not go ahead with the C man since it won’t be my main saw. Greg

The last one I made, I made out of UHMW … bought in the form of a Wal-Mart cutting board.

I can get a couple out of it, which works out to about $4/ea.

The wood ones I’ve made get a bit chewed up by my anti-kickback pawls, which … over time … tend to get stuck IN the wood.

-- -- Neil

My ridgid contractors ts, don’t know the exact model, insert is only about 1/8” thick and have not seen any blanks that thin. Do they make any? I haven’t seen anything that thin that I could use either. Any ideas?

thanx

-- >> my shop teacher used to say "do the best at everything you make for your mom because you're going to see it for the rest of your life!" <<

Roger,

Got planer ?
Thickness sander ?
Bandsaw that will capably re-saw thicker stock ?

-- -- Neil

got none of those yet. :(
a bandsaw is on the list though… someday.

-- >> my shop teacher used to say "do the best at everything you make for your mom because you're going to see it for the rest of your life!" <<

Ditto what Glen said. It’s actually quite easy.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

For 1/8 thickness try acrylic (perspex)

-- I am not so rich to buy cheap tools.