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Forum topic by rbterhune | posted 02-12-2011 09:52 PM | 2485 views | 1 time favorited | 11 replies | ![]() |
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02-12-2011 09:52 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: question router I have 3/4” stock and I need a half round bead with a 1/8” fillet on both edges…making the half round bead 1/2” diameter? I’ve thought about using a roundover bit…but after the first pass, I’ve lost my edge for the bearing to run along. I’ve also thought about one of those whiteside bullnose bits…pictured…but this doesn’t have any way of controlling the depth without the use of a fence. Of course I can’t use the fence because I have an arched rail. This is the piece I’m mimicking…see the front edge of the sides and the rail. That’s what I need. A larger picture of the piece can be found here. Thanks |
11 replies so far
#1 posted 02-12-2011 10:02 PM |
I would try a round over bit with a fillet edge. I guess that’s what one would call a 90 deg shoulder to the round over portion of the bit. Use a guide bushing and a hardboard template parallel to the finished edge. Set the template back the appropriate distance and follow with the guide bushing, repeat on back side. -- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch) |
#2 posted 02-12-2011 10:09 PM |
What I did, before it was cut to final width, was make a fence with the same arch. Hot glue this on to the piece I wanted to route. This would be the distance from the edge of the base to the inside of the curve on the bit. Then just run the router’s base along the fence. It would follow the curve. Use the bull-nose bit. Make Sense? -- Chris Ward |
#3 posted 02-12-2011 10:21 PM |
Use a pattern taped to the workpiece and a template guide bushing. Another way to do it is make a curved fence for your router table. This |
#4 posted 02-12-2011 10:46 PM |
looks like the guide bushings are the consensus so far…I didn’t even think of that. I’m new to this hobby…funny how I’m always having to buy something to finish what appears to be a relatively simple project. Good think I’m into this as a hobby, because it sure as heck isn’t cheaper than purchasing the piece out right. |
#5 posted 02-13-2011 03:43 AM |
Guide bushings are cheap and they last forever. Just have to get the right kind for your router base. Generally there are Porter Cable style and Bosch style. One is threaded with a knurled ring to clamp it to the base. The Bosch style is fitted for Bosch bases. -- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch) |
#6 posted 02-13-2011 04:25 PM |
I had a similar issue with a huntboard with a lower arched rail and did was CessnaPilotBarry recommended. Make the arch in the rail, form a bead with the router on a wide board and cut it off with the table saw and apply it. I applied a 1/8 inch bead of curly maple to a arch of about the same radius as your pic. Worked well using just glue. |
#7 posted 02-13-2011 04:51 PM |
make a fence that follows the curve instead of a long fence on the router table make one that has a rad. at the end of it and make a template for the fence to follow. Then you can set it as far back as you want. -- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com |
#8 posted 02-13-2011 05:24 PM |
As gentle as that arch is and that it’s a painted piece, I agree with CessnaPilotBarry and would run the bead from straight stock, rip to proper thickness and apply. Glue and small brads would hold fine. -- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com |
#9 posted 02-13-2011 05:45 PM |
You could use a Router Table with a guide pin and freehand it with the bullnose bit in it. But the parts may be a little large for this unless you have a fairly large top on you table to support them. |
#10 posted 02-13-2011 07:06 PM |
cessna…for the arch at the top, the bead is on the underside (edge)...and for the sides it is on the front edge. The link above has a much larger and better photo. |
#11 posted 02-13-2011 07:12 PM |
huff…he has me thinking I might try it. I could use a 1/4” roundover and then rip off the piece on the table saw. That would be a very cheap and easy way to do it…I think. Richard…freehand doesn’t work well when it’s my free hand that is doing the work. For those with the bushing idea…I’ve never used them. For this instance the template would be sandwiched between the router’s base plate and the top of the roundover bit…is this normal practice? |
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