How do I get a half round bead on edge of 3/4" stock that is arched?

I would try a round over bit with a fillet edge. I guess that’s what one would call a 90 deg shoulder to the round over portion of the bit. Use a guide bushing and a hardboard template parallel to the finished edge. Set the template back the appropriate distance and follow with the guide bushing, repeat on back side.
Good luck, hope this helps. I suggest the bushing because I doubt a top bearing bit would be available in the needed profile.

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

What I did, before it was cut to final width, was make a fence with the same arch. Hot glue this on to the piece I wanted to route. This would be the distance from the edge of the base to the inside of the curve on the bit. Then just run the router’s base along the fence. It would follow the curve. Use the bull-nose bit.

Make Sense?

-- Chris Ward

Use a pattern taped to the workpiece and a template guide bushing.

Another way to do it is make a curved fence for your router table. This
approach will mostly work only if the curve is on one general radius.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

looks like the guide bushings are the consensus so far…I didn’t even think of that.

I’m new to this hobby…funny how I’m always having to buy something to finish what appears to be a relatively simple project. Good think I’m into this as a hobby, because it sure as heck isn’t cheaper than purchasing the piece out right.

Guide bushings are cheap and they last forever. Just have to get the right kind for your router base. Generally there are Porter Cable style and Bosch style. One is threaded with a knurled ring to clamp it to the base. The Bosch style is fitted for Bosch bases.
Good luck.

-- "Man's ingenuity has outrun his intelligence" (Joseph Wood Krutch)

I had a similar issue with a huntboard with a lower arched rail and did was CessnaPilotBarry recommended. Make the arch in the rail, form a bead with the router on a wide board and cut it off with the table saw and apply it. I applied a 1/8 inch bead of curly maple to a arch of about the same radius as your pic. Worked well using just glue.

make a fence that follows the curve instead of a long fence on the router table make one that has a rad. at the end of it and make a template for the fence to follow. Then you can set it as far back as you want.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

As gentle as that arch is and that it’s a painted piece, I agree with CessnaPilotBarry and would run the bead from straight stock, rip to proper thickness and apply. Glue and small brads would hold fine.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

You could use a Router Table with a guide pin and freehand it with the bullnose bit in it. But the parts may be a little large for this unless you have a fairly large top on you table to support them.

cessna…for the arch at the top, the bead is on the underside (edge)...and for the sides it is on the front edge. The link above has a much larger and better photo.

huff…he has me thinking I might try it. I could use a 1/4” roundover and then rip off the piece on the table saw. That would be a very cheap and easy way to do it…I think.

Richard…freehand doesn’t work well when it’s my free hand that is doing the work.

For those with the bushing idea…I’ve never used them. For this instance the template would be sandwiched between the router’s base plate and the top of the roundover bit…is this normal practice?