Resawing problem

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Forum topic by woodfan1975 posted 02-11-2011 07:39 PM 1500 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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9 posts in 3330 days

02-11-2011 07:39 PM

This question is for those of you with resawing experience using a tall fence and not a pivot point. In the process of resawing, the blade starts to pull towards the fence and I end up getting a tapered cut from front to back. The cut is straight from top to bottom, so I am not having an issue with the blade bowing. I have set the blade tension, the blade is 90deg to the table, the guides are set, and the drift has been compensated for. The last two items are the ones that are bothering me. If one or are the other is off, I am guessing it will give me the problem I am experiencing. Does this sound correct? If anyone can confirm my suspicion then I will focus my attention on setting up those items more accurately. I am using a resaw blade and ceramic guides. Thank you for your input.

10 replies so far

View Eric_S's profile


1565 posts in 3393 days

#1 posted 02-11-2011 07:53 PM

I’ve had success resawing with a tall fence. The biggest issues I had was my blade although very sharp for normal cuts, wasn’t sharp enough to cut through the grain instead of following it, so make sure you use a very sharp(i.e. new) blade like the woodslicer or timberwolf for resawing. Also blade tracking was another issue but you say your drift is accounted for, although I’d double check that. My guess is your blade is duller than it seems.

What wood are you using?

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View woodfan1975's profile


9 posts in 3330 days

#2 posted 02-11-2011 08:08 PM

I have tried a couple different species of wood, both soft and hard. I will look at the sharpness of the blade as I have had some concerns about it. It does not feel sharp as compared to some of my other blades. Thank you for your reply.

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 3272 days

#3 posted 02-11-2011 09:32 PM

I think this is a good idea – Before using the band saw to resaw, start with a table saw and in a couple of passes for each edge, cut as much as you can with the TS. Then finish on the bandsaw. The blade will seek the path of least resistance and that is where the TS cuts are.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2686 posts in 3119 days

#4 posted 02-11-2011 11:57 PM

I resaw a lot of red cedar 1×8’s I use a Go555 with the resaw fence. the only time I get any drift is when I push too hard on the wood to try to feed it too fast. SLow way down and see how it cuts.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website>

View itsmic's profile


1419 posts in 3316 days

#5 posted 02-12-2011 12:55 AM

I am pretty new to the re-saw world, I have a laguna four and a half hp, 15 inch capacity saw, with ceramic guides, plenty of power anyway. I designed and made my own pressure roller, about a 4 inch diameter roller, heavy spring loaded and set just before the blade, this holds the board firmly against the fence safely and efficiently, rolls along with very little resistance, the cuts I have made since this improvement only vary about .020 throughout a 5 foot board. This amount is easily perfected on the planer. I have made some cuts even better. My blade is getting pretty dull for sure, I use a re-saw blade and a regular one, but, still have made the same degree of tolerance since the roll support. I also make sure my fence is perfect square to the table, blade is parallel to the fence and at right angle to the table, and also that the re-saw workpiece has the two sides perfect square, I make some of my boards from logs. My fence runs 4 feet to either side of the blade, with a two foot long raised fence at the blade. I have made cuts as small as 1/8” thick with good results. I haven’t learned how to adjust for blade tracking, once I get good at all of it, I am sure my results will improve some. The blade sharpness is surely important, as stated, and the speed and care you take as you feed the board, the type of wood, the direction of the grain, all are factors. Interesting subject, thanks for posting

-- It's Mic Keep working and sharing

View Pop's profile


428 posts in 4144 days

#6 posted 02-12-2011 02:50 AM

Dull Blade. Too many teeth per inch clogs the gullets of the blade. Feeding too fast. Blade too narrow. Fence not adjusted to compensate for drift. All these can be a resaw problem. I don’t use a pivot point on my fence just a tall fence.


-- One who works with his hands is a laborer, his hands & head A craftsman, his hands, head & heart a artist

View EPJartisan's profile


1122 posts in 3323 days

#7 posted 02-12-2011 05:57 PM

I use all three methods… for soft woods I use a fence, for hardwoods I usually end up with a pivot guide, and for exotics and high figured woods I use richgreer’s method of table saw cuts first and them move to the bandsaw. The more dense the wood, the more it seems to drift. I use the widest and sharpest blade with the fewest tp (1.25” wide, 6 tpi)i. I also have found wood does take the path of least resistance and slow speed feeding, backing off the very moment it feels off. Binding due to warping and reaction wood can also add little issues, so I use a lot of thin wedges as I cut difficult woods. But all this also depends on the width and thickness of the wood I am re-sawing.

-- " 'Truth' is like a beautiful flower, unique to each plant and to the season it blossoms ... 'Fact' is the root and leaf, allowing the plant grow and bloom again."

View woodfan1975's profile


9 posts in 3330 days

#8 posted 02-12-2011 07:02 PM

Okay so a solution has been found for my resaw problem. The main culprit, a dull blade. Second after that was slightly misaligned guides. I want to thank everyone for their advice, as without it I would have been cursing and swearing for days on end. If I manage to post the pic properly you can see the result for your selves cut from a piece of hard maple. Thanks again.


View JKBogle's profile


40 posts in 3135 days

#9 posted 02-13-2011 12:41 AM

I like your advice on starting with the tablesaw. How do you compensate for the difference in blade width between the table saw and bandsaw?

View HerbC's profile


1790 posts in 3057 days

#10 posted 02-13-2011 05:45 AM

Try using an ultra thin kerf 7.6” blade in the tablesaw.

Be Careful!


-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!"

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