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G0555 - Too much love nearly killed her/AKA broken wheel.

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Forum topic by jopo posted 10-23-2017 04:44 PM 466 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jopo

26 posts in 1048 days


10-23-2017 04:44 PM

Topic tags/keywords: g0555 question

Hey I made a huge goof apparently and I suppose this is part therapy and part asking for advice.
I have a G0555 that I really really like. I work with hand tools about 1/2 the time but my bandsaw is my favorite powered tool. I’ve never had any issues with it including ‘drift’ etc. Well, she did shake a tiny bit so i thought, let’s give her some love and try out one of these link belts. Following the manual, I loosened the motor bolts, and slid the original belt off the pullies. Then when I went to use a socket on my lower wheel, I found it extremely tight. I used a block of wood to hold the wheel while I used two hands to pull the socket and…boom I broke the wheel. I was so heartbroken myself. I rechecked the manual as I suspected the thread was left handed but reading it, it simply says “unthread the wheel mount bolt and…”. It does not mention Left Handed Thread. At this point, the bolt was toast too. It broke off while I tried twisting it the other way.
So….now here I am with a broken wheel, a shaft stuck in the machine with a broken bolt inside. I really don’t know what to do. Thoughts? I’m so bummed. I feel like as if I was giving my car an oil change and the engine fell out.
While I contacted Grizzly, they gave me back an email that said I could try to get the wheel welded. They also suggested drilling out the shaft bolt but I’m not really sure what they are thinking by that description. I mean, if I couldn’t get it out with a head still on the bolt, what is drilling a hole in it going to do? I’m sure some of you machine experts have some good ideas. Drill, tap and throw a left handed bolt inside the bolt shaft? sorry…this is not my area of expertise.
  • Note, online I have seen a pdf of a g0555 manual that states the threads are left threaded but my saw is a 2002 and I promise you, it doesn’t say anything about being left threaded.

18 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

9556 posts in 3460 days


#1 posted 10-23-2017 04:54 PM

I have never looked into it, but it maked sense
for the lower wheel bolt on a left-column
band saw to be left-hand threaded.

Here’s an article that mentions it as if left-hand
threads are the standard.

If you can get the wheel off won’t you have
less-obstructed access to the bolt? I would
start there.

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firefighterontheside

16717 posts in 1669 days


#2 posted 10-23-2017 04:55 PM

Can you post a picture or two of what you’ve got to help give advice.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View jopo's profile

jopo

26 posts in 1048 days


#3 posted 10-23-2017 05:01 PM

-loren – the wheel came off real easy when the bolt head broke…
and I’ve online that there are left handed bolts on lower wheels too…I just don’t see it in my manual. The weird thing is, is that this whole process of changing a belt seemed so simple and I usually wouldn’t even have opened the manual but it happened to be sitting there staring at me when I put the blade away. So…I opened it and went through the steps.

- pics

View onoitsmatt's profile

onoitsmatt

365 posts in 988 days


#4 posted 10-23-2017 05:02 PM

Bummer man.

-- Matt - Phoenix, AZ

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10466 posts in 2192 days


#5 posted 10-23-2017 05:06 PM

You need a right handed bolt extractor, a new bolt and a new wheel.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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jopo

26 posts in 1048 days


#6 posted 10-23-2017 05:07 PM

Think there’s a decent chance the wheel could be welded for less then a new one ($65+Shipping)? Or…would be a smart idea?


You need a right handed bolt extractor, a new bolt and a new wheel.

- Rick_M

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Loren

9556 posts in 3460 days


#7 posted 10-23-2017 05:09 PM

Looks like drilling and tapping that shaft
for a rh bolt is the way to go.

The damage to the wheel looks like an
easy repair for a good welder.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

5904 posts in 2011 days


#8 posted 10-23-2017 05:12 PM

Parts listing in the manual clearly states it’s a left hand thread (HEX BOLT M8-1.25 X 20 LH). Only option now is to either drill out the bolt, or replace the shaft. For the wheel, a new wheel would be preferable to brazing the old one, as that will throw it way out of balance. And while it’s a bit late now… it would have been much easier just to cut the old belt (or just slip it off and leave hanging) and put on the link belt to try. However, in this case, I doubt a link belt will help much given the application.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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jopo

26 posts in 1048 days


#9 posted 10-23-2017 05:12 PM

Thanks guys…I guess I’m in for buying some new tools to repair my ignorance.

The wheels are cast aluminum right?

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jopo

26 posts in 1048 days


#10 posted 10-23-2017 05:21 PM

Brad…thanks for the reply.
First though…I looked at the link to the manual listed and it does say LH in the parts and on page 48 (remove belt) but as I said, my older manual does NOT state LH.

Second…as you mentioned…I could have cut the belt off and I thought about it but I also thought…well, this should be simple and maybe I’ll like the OG belt better. It seemed so incredibly simple.

Third. I’m fine replacing the shaft. The shaft is cheaper then a RH thread extractor and I’m not sure if I’d even succeed using one. How do I go about getting the shaft out? Can I get to it from behind or am I going to need some other…what are they called?? pully tools?


Parts listing in the manual clearly states it s a left hand thread (HEX BOLT M8-1.25 X 20 LH). Only option now is to either drill out the bolt, or replace the shaft. For the wheel, a new wheel would be preferable to brazing the old one, as that will throw it way out of balance. And while it s a bit late now… it would have been much easier just to cut the old belt (or just slip it off and leave hanging) and put on the link belt to try. However, in this case, I doubt a link belt will help much given the application.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


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jopo

26 posts in 1048 days


#11 posted 10-23-2017 05:26 PM

Oh and Brad…in the description of my manual it does NOT says LH (like it does in the newer one you listed). But..in my part list it does say (LH). My bad for sure. I should have figured it out when I put a lot of pressure on it and it wasn’t moving. Hopefully I’ll learn from this. Thanks for all the replies.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

5904 posts in 2011 days


#12 posted 10-23-2017 05:27 PM

How do I go about getting the shaft out?

You should be able to remove the key and then just give the shaft a good smack with a dead blow hammer (or a block of wood and a regular hammer)- it will come out the back (motor side). The rear bearing will come out with the shaft, the front one will stay in the casting and need to be driven out from behind once the shaft is removed.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: You don’t necessarily need a screw extractor… you can get them out without one if you are careful drilling.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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jopo

26 posts in 1048 days


#13 posted 10-23-2017 05:36 PM

Well that was easy. Thanks Brad. Got the keyway, shaft, back and front bearings out.
Next steps…ordering and waiting.
I suppose I could work on a better dust collection for her while she’s on the operating table.

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MrUnix

5904 posts in 2011 days


#14 posted 10-23-2017 06:28 PM

You might as well go ahead and try to drill out that bolt… if you are going to order a new shaft, it certainly won’t hurt anything to try. Also, since you have it apart, I’d replace the bearings while you are at it. Those are 15+ years old and it will be much easier to do it now and know that they are good, than to have them fail later and have to take everything apart again. A couple of quality 6204-2RS bearings will set you back about $10, and the ones that are in there now could be contributing to your vibration problems. YMMV.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Rick_M's profile

Rick_M

10466 posts in 2192 days


#15 posted 10-24-2017 02:21 AM

Agree with Brad on both counts, try to get the bolt out and definitely change the bearings while you have it apart. Buy some good quality US or German bearings and they will last a long time.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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