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Best paper for Jet 16-32

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Forum topic by Tom posted 10-22-2017 04:02 AM 309 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tom

166 posts in 873 days


10-22-2017 04:02 AM

I recently purchased a Jet 16-32 drum sander and like it…but it comes with 80 grit pre- installed and that’s great for starters…but using an orbital to get the marks out is WAY too much work. I’m looking for recommendations on which 2-3 grits above this would be best (say 150/220) to get projects ready for final sanding. Also…which brand paper is best? I see pre-cut rolls from a variety of vendors plus uncut rolls. What’s best? I do own scissors so cutting a strip off of a roll wouldn’t be that difficult. Amazon has a pretty good variety and I don’t have easy access to a Woodcraft or similar store.


5 replies so far

View robscastle's profile

robscastle

4384 posts in 2017 days


#1 posted 10-22-2017 05:08 AM

OK if your drum sander takes 78mm sanding rolls there are a variety of ways to go about it.
First up I am surprised you didn work a deal during the pudchase to get additional rolls inculded as a package.
However you will/may find you will spend the purchase price and possibly some more on consumables depending on what you intend using your drum sander for.

To answer your question regarding different grits I would suggest 32 or 36 Grit if you want to remove surface coatings.

Then 120 and 240 to retire your orbital sanding on drum projects, then dependent on what finishes you intend to use you could go higher to 320 grit.

Brands include Sisa and the usual other brands all of which have characteristics to suit your needs.

Sanding is one of the most rewarding aspects of woodwork but also be aware its produces the most dangerous dust particles going in regards to inhaling, just ask your dust collector fiters! You don’t want your lungs choked like that, as you possibly dont have the ability to remove them and beat the crap out of them and replace them.

-- Regards Robert

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4710 posts in 2306 days


#2 posted 10-22-2017 11:28 AM

My experience was with a Delta drum sander, but here’s what I found. Anything above 150 grit was a waste of money, the finer grits always clogged (fairly quickly) no matter how careful I was taking lighter cuts. I did keep one or two on hand just in case, but pretty much gave up on anything above 150 grit. My normal grit was 120, though if I had some really rough work to smooth out I would drop down to 80 grit. I usually bought the uncut rolls, the savings were not spectacular, but they are still savings. The best strips I used was from Klingspor, but I had also bought some from Woodworker’s Supply and it was very good. Other than those 2, the only ones I used was OEM stuff from Delta (didn’t much care for that). I never considered a DS a finishing tool, I doubt you will ever get rid of the lengthwise scratch marks for a proper finish…..just getting them to where they weren’t so much work to remove is what i always tried to do (which sounds like your goal). One other thing, to echo what Robert said…the DC is much more important with a DS than other tools, and you have to watch your filters/bags closely.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

1634 posts in 1035 days


#3 posted 10-22-2017 02:55 PM

I have the older twin, a performax 16-32.

I use grits 36, 80, 120, 180, and 220.

The sander is my favorite, most used shop tool behind the TS,

36 is useful for rough lumber and removing excessive glue squeeze out (cutting boards) since the glue will generally not clog the paper up,

80 is great for quickly getting rid of bandsaw marks and getting close to final dimension, but sometimes I’ll start with the 120.

180 is where I often quit, but sometimes I’ll use the 220 on closed train woods like cherry or walnut. Never more than 1/8 turn on the depth with these finer grits.

Clogging can be a problem on gummy woods, but a belt cleaning stick used often can really extend the belt life.

You will never get rid of your orbital since even with the 220, the scratches are linear and very visible. Generally I’ll post-sand with my orbital beginning at one grit coarser then what I finished with on the drum sander.

You can save money buying the long rolls and cutting your own strips, use a factory cut strip as a template. Places like klingspor sell good quality at about $5/strip when you factor in the shipping, etc. Look elsewhere and watch for specials.

The DS gets you a nice, flat surface without any tearout or other defects common after planing, but it takes some practice and careful setup to get snipe-free passes.

View scrubs's profile

scrubs

44 posts in 73 days


#4 posted 10-23-2017 07:52 PM

I have the same sander, I use 36, 80, 120, 180 and 220 just like splintergroup.

My most used grits are probably 80, 120 and 220.

I don’t remove the grooves with a ROS, I just put in 220 and make a few light passes. :)

Once you get faster at changing the paper, it’s not bad at all.

-- It all seems like a good idea at some point...

View cracknpop's profile

cracknpop

256 posts in 2161 days


#5 posted 10-24-2017 01:57 AM

I too have the Jet 16-32. I keep the same grits as already mentioned; 36 for quick clean up, 80, 120, and 180 to get ready for final sanding with ROS. I was given several pre-cut rolls when I bought it (used). Most recently I bought several rolls from Woodworkers Supply and have been very happy with them.

-- Rick - I know I am not perfect, but I will keep pressing on toward the goal of becoming all I am called to be.

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