Table saw mark planing

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Forum topic by majuvla posted 02-09-2011 05:38 PM 1386 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View majuvla's profile


12444 posts in 2896 days

02-09-2011 05:38 PM

Topic tags/keywords: planer

Hello woodworkers,

Is it possible to remove table saw mark on plank (side) with planner, for example DW 735?
Something like to turn plank 90 degrees and put it in planner.
Thanks for tips.

-- Ivan, Croatia, Wooddicted

11 replies so far

View JasonWagner's profile


527 posts in 3209 days

#1 posted 02-09-2011 05:45 PM

I have edge planed boards, but did it as a group with screws or double sided tape so there was some stability to the pieces. You could always make a jig that would hold a board like that in a sled. A wide and narrow board would be tricky.

2 other ways – get a better table saw blade (Forrest WWII) or use a router table as a jointer. These are the two ways I use.

-- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart!

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 2909 days

#2 posted 02-09-2011 06:04 PM

A few light passes with a hand plane would do the trick.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View Loren's profile


10476 posts in 3677 days

#3 posted 02-09-2011 07:16 PM

Yeah. Works fine. I do it with rail and stile stock. I usually gang the
pieces together and plane several at a time, but in my experience 3/4”
wide stock can be run individually too as long as the edges are 90
degrees and it is not too wide.

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 3851 days

#4 posted 02-09-2011 07:47 PM

Ivan, I have edge jointed boards as well with my Delta planer. It is probably better if the boards are held vertically with a sled or clamp but I have done it on 3/4 wide stock.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Beginningwoodworker's profile


13345 posts in 3702 days

#5 posted 02-10-2011 05:12 AM

I never try that. I know a hand plane will do the job.

View Sawkerf's profile


1730 posts in 3097 days

#6 posted 02-10-2011 07:16 AM

I edge plane stock in my 735 almost every day. I cut it a bit fat on the TS and plane it to final thickness. Cuts WAY down on sanding time. – lol

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

View devann's profile


2246 posts in 2721 days

#7 posted 02-10-2011 08:02 AM

I use my router table and a straight cut bit. Set up the table with the proper stagger at the fences. I use a couple thin washers on the infeed side with a straight edge and bring the outfeed side to the straight edge. Make sure the cutter lines up with the outfeed side. It’s kinda lke a poorboys jointer but you’ll get a nice edge that you can glue to. With the planer I don’t get a satisfactory edge, the rollers sometimes will sqwish the board resulting with an edge slightly out of square, and there’s the snipe factor.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

View majuvla's profile


12444 posts in 2896 days

#8 posted 02-10-2011 09:52 AM

Thank you all for good advices.I will try with some of mentioned methodes.

-- Ivan, Croatia, Wooddicted

View ScottN's profile


261 posts in 2708 days

#9 posted 02-10-2011 02:04 PM

I run boards on edge through my planer all the time. Go ahead and try it on a piece of scrap wood first.

-- New Auburn,WI

View pvwoodcrafts's profile


244 posts in 3950 days

#10 posted 02-10-2011 03:34 PM

I use a hand held card scraper. Chances are good that you may have tearout planing. Thats harder to get out than saw marks

-- mike & judy western md. www.

View dbray45's profile


3320 posts in 2805 days

#11 posted 02-10-2011 03:48 PM

I use the planer if I have several boards that I want to square up and match. Be careful of the grain direction and snipe. These can change a bunch of boards into splinters. The caveat to this is that if you include longer boards on each side the the bundle, you can greatly reduce the potential of snipe to the set.

Otherwise, I use a jointer hand plane or jointer.

-- David in Damascus, MD

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