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Table saw mark planing

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Forum topic by majuvla posted 02-09-2011 05:38 PM 1239 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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majuvla

9120 posts in 2330 days


02-09-2011 05:38 PM

Topic tags/keywords: planer

Hello woodworkers,

Is it possible to remove table saw mark on plank (side) with planner, for example DW 735?
Something like to turn plank 90 degrees and put it in planner.
Thanks for tips.
Ivan

-- Ivan, Croatia, Wooddicted


11 replies so far

View JasonWagner's profile

JasonWagner

527 posts in 2642 days


#1 posted 02-09-2011 05:45 PM

I have edge planed boards, but did it as a group with screws or double sided tape so there was some stability to the pieces. You could always make a jig that would hold a board like that in a sled. A wide and narrow board would be tricky.

2 other ways – get a better table saw blade (Forrest WWII) or use a router table as a jointer. These are the two ways I use.

-- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart!

View Dan's profile

Dan

3630 posts in 2343 days


#2 posted 02-09-2011 06:04 PM

A few light passes with a hand plane would do the trick.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View Loren's profile

Loren

8301 posts in 3110 days


#3 posted 02-09-2011 07:16 PM

Yeah. Works fine. I do it with rail and stile stock. I usually gang the
pieces together and plane several at a time, but in my experience 3/4”
wide stock can be run individually too as long as the edges are 90
degrees and it is not too wide.

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3284 days


#4 posted 02-09-2011 07:47 PM

Ivan, I have edge jointed boards as well with my Delta planer. It is probably better if the boards are held vertically with a sled or clamp but I have done it on 3/4 wide stock.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Beginningwoodworker's profile

Beginningwoodworker

13347 posts in 3135 days


#5 posted 02-10-2011 05:12 AM

I never try that. I know a hand plane will do the job.

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 2531 days


#6 posted 02-10-2011 07:16 AM

I edge plane stock in my 735 almost every day. I cut it a bit fat on the TS and plane it to final thickness. Cuts WAY down on sanding time. – lol

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View devann's profile

devann

2200 posts in 2155 days


#7 posted 02-10-2011 08:02 AM

I use my router table and a straight cut bit. Set up the table with the proper stagger at the fences. I use a couple thin washers on the infeed side with a straight edge and bring the outfeed side to the straight edge. Make sure the cutter lines up with the outfeed side. It’s kinda lke a poorboys jointer but you’ll get a nice edge that you can glue to. With the planer I don’t get a satisfactory edge, the rollers sometimes will sqwish the board resulting with an edge slightly out of square, and there’s the snipe factor.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

View majuvla's profile

majuvla

9120 posts in 2330 days


#8 posted 02-10-2011 09:52 AM

Thank you all for good advices.I will try with some of mentioned methodes.

-- Ivan, Croatia, Wooddicted

View ScottN's profile

ScottN

261 posts in 2142 days


#9 posted 02-10-2011 02:04 PM

I run boards on edge through my planer all the time. Go ahead and try it on a piece of scrap wood first.

-- New Auburn,WI

View pvwoodcrafts's profile

pvwoodcrafts

234 posts in 3384 days


#10 posted 02-10-2011 03:34 PM

I use a hand held card scraper. Chances are good that you may have tearout planing. Thats harder to get out than saw marks

-- mike & judy western md. www. pvwoodcrafts.com pvwccf1@verizon.net

View dbray45's profile

dbray45

3185 posts in 2239 days


#11 posted 02-10-2011 03:48 PM

I use the planer if I have several boards that I want to square up and match. Be careful of the grain direction and snipe. These can change a bunch of boards into splinters. The caveat to this is that if you include longer boards on each side the the bundle, you can greatly reduce the potential of snipe to the set.

Otherwise, I use a jointer hand plane or jointer.

-- David in Damascus, MD

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