I am attaching these walnut pieces on top of this box lid. (I probably should have done inlay, but it's too late now)
My Plan A is to glue these walnut pieces down and then finish with tung oil. I am wondering if there is a better plan?
(1)
The tails in particular are quite thin and I am concerned about how to glue them down adequately yet not get glue all over the top for which I can't get back off.
Any tips on how to glue these tails down?
(2)
I plan to finish this in tung oil as I have done many projects. Finishing with this type of intricate detail on top poses some issues with build up in the tiny recesses.
I am wondering if there is a technique where I could finish (or partially finish) the box top and parts prior to attaching them?
If so, what type of glue?
Glue onto the finished top?
How to attach?
Never done this but I'm thinking cover the top with masking tape. Set the pieces in place and run a exacto knife around the pieces and remove the tape where the pieces go and glue then down.
Never done this but I m thinking cover the top with masking tape. Set the pieces in place and run a exacto knife around the pieces and remove the tape where the pieces go and glue then down.
I'd attach the tails first with titebond and let them set up with a flat board on top with some weight, then go back and add the other pieces in stages. I bet that a thin coat of glue on the tail pieces would give you very little squeeze out that could be removed with a sharp chisel after letting it set up for a while before it drys completely especially if you use AlaskaGuys masking tape idea. The tails are the main concern. Cut a practice tail and try it on some scrap.
The other pieces are big enough to just keep the glue away from the edges to avoid squeeze out. Then just apply the Tung oil in very thin coats that are wiped well after application. Shouldn't be a problem, especially if you do detailed inlay work.
Hide glue, either hot or liquid is easily cleaned up with water. That would solve the squeeze out problem but not the oil build-up problem. The masking idea (AlaskaGuy) would likely work for that part.
+1 on using hide glue. Unlike regular wood glues, you can get it off with warm water, though cleaning the glue out of tight spaces can be a pain regardless so use as little glue as possible to minimize the squeeze out. To clamp it just put some weight on it. If you use hot hide glue, you might not have to clamp at all because it starts to hold within a minute or two with just "finger clamping" as soon as it cools down a bit. Checkout Shipwright's blogs on hot hide blue. Pretty amazing stuff.
As for finishing, if you wipe on the oil with a rag, you can put on multiple light coats so you can avoid the build up issues. You might need to use something small to push the rag into tight corners but that is better than applying with a brush and getting pools of oil in those corners.
these are my latest completed scrollsaw projects. theres quite a bit of glueing down of pieces on em. heres how ive been doing it for years with great results.
a couple dabs around the perimeter- far enough in that it wont squeeze out, then press in place for a minute or 2. i like to clamp the pieces in place for 5 or so minutes, but sometimes have to use weights- i dont have clamps that can reach for parts closer to the middles.
ive been doing it this way for many years. along with the scrollsaw work, kve done it on a couple dollhouses that get used a lot, some toy chests, and other kids toys and the parts stay on great
p.s.
if the buildup you mention is referring to buildup of the tung oil, a simple solution is to use some compressed air to blow the tung oil out of the crevices. a rag over the are and blow some air into it. not massive pressure,though. 50psi ish seems to work for me when i use BLO.
Apply CA glue to the pieces and spray CA activator on base. Apply in the exact position and apply a couple of seconds pressure. No squeeze out, no worry about slippage. Case solved!
CA is durable enough for this kind of job. They now have a UV activated system that works very well in situations like this.
If you want to use PVA do what Alaska guy suggests or pin the tails in with strait pins.
CA is durable enough for this kind of job. They now have a UV activated system that works very well in situations like this.
If you want to use PVA do what Alaska guy suggests or pin the tails in with strait pins.
CA is durable enough for this kind of job. They now have a UV activated system that works very well in situations like this.
If you want to use PVA do what Alaska guy suggests or pin the tails in with strait pins.
- pontic
Quite interested in this. How does the UV light penetrate the wood material to cure it?
CA is durable enough for this kind of job. They now have a UV activated system that works very well in situations like this.
If you want to use PVA do what Alaska guy suggests or pin the tails in with strait pins.
- pontic
Quite interested in this. How does the UV light penetrate the wood material to cure it?
- jbay
I actually have some of the UV curable glue, but I am unsure of it s curing potential in hidden areas and it s longevity. Guess I can test that too!
Chris, I manufacture glass display cases for jewelry stores.
I use UV glue that is cured with a black UV Light. It only cures where the light can penetrate through the glass.
I've never had it work where light can't come through it.
Maybe there is a different type, is why I'm asking about it.
Chris, I manufacture glass display cases for jewelry stores.
I use UV glue that is cured with a black UV Light. It only cures where the light can penetrate through the glass.
I ve never had it work where light can t come through it.
Maybe there is a different type, is why I m asking about it.
No, you are dead-on. My company manufacturers using UV curable resins and it's just as you say. If the glue or resin cures, it is because it was exposed to UV light. Otherwise it stays just like it is in the tube.
I have nothing to add regarding gluing methods or finishing. However, the foot of the Mickey character on the right in the photos is orientated with its wood grain perpendicular to the wood grain of the lid. I wonder whether this could pose any problems should either the lid or Mickey's foot expand or contract. All the other character pieces seem orientated with wood grain running parallel to that of the lid.
Maybe a dual cure glue one that is initiated by UV light and then the polymerizing is auto propagated after that. Like the Dental resins are. Then you can just cure around the sides and the reaction will continue underneath.
I wonder if there are any GMA meta resins available? Are they only used in the Dental industry.
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