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How is this end table joined?

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Forum topic by ppg677 posted 10-17-2017 04:12 PM 506 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ppg677

129 posts in 665 days


10-17-2017 04:12 PM

https://www.masayacompany.com/products/apanas-hall-table-royal-mahogany

I’d like to make an end-table with a similar look— legs that are angled, a top table, and a shelf. (I don’t need the drawer and I don’t need the legs exposed on the top).

Any ideas how this particular project is joined? Or how I might accomplish something similar?

I supposed I could make an apron/legs where the tenon/mortises are angled.


2 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

116492 posts in 3387 days


#1 posted 10-17-2017 04:17 PM

I like that design, I would guess that the legs are only connected to the cross members possibly with mortise and tenons and then the top is connected to the top cross member perhaps with screws that should have elongated holes to allow for wood movement.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

1250 posts in 729 days


#2 posted 10-18-2017 01:40 AM

ppg677,

From what I can see in Apanas Hall Table photos, the legs seem to angle outward only along the long dimensions (front view). The legs are parallel when viewed from the end of the table. Also the outside faces of the legs appear to be tapered.

If these observations are consistent with the design you are considering, then my approach would be to connect the rails to the front and back legs with a mortise and tenon (although a loose tenon joint could also work). The mortises and the tenons need not be angled since the legs of the end assembly are parallel to one another (when viewed from the end).

After the tenons are milled in the rails, the top edge of the rails would be bevel cut to the same angle as the front-viewed splay angle. The beveled top edge of the rails would then allow the top and shelf to fully seat on the rails.

The bottom edge of the rails could also be beveled to make the rail’s top edge parallel to the rail’s bottom edge or the bottom edge of the rail could be left as a square cut. This bottom bevel in the rail would be a design decision.

Once the mortises are cut in the legs, the legs could be tapered on the two outside faces.

After the mortises and tenons are cut, the top edges of the rails beveled, and the legs tapered, the end leg assemblies could be glued. After the glue is cured, the top and bottom of the legs can be cut to the splay angle.

Adding to a1Jim’s comment, I would either the counter-bore the oversized or elongated holes so the screws that hold to shelf and top place would be hidden.

The last thing would ensure is that the shelf, which would be sandwiched between the front and back legs, is made narrow enough so that it has room to expand without pushing out on the legs.

If, on the other hand, you wish to splay the legs in both directions, front to back and side to side, the mortises and tenons would need to be angled. In this case, loose tenon joinery could perhaps simplify construction a little bit. If the legs are splayed front to back and side to side, a lap joint could also be used to join the legs and rails, but this joint, while straightforward, would dramatically affect the look of the table.

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