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1939 Delta Unisaw

7K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  runswithscissors 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello. I am looking for some advice. I have an opportunity to pick up a 1939 Delta Unisaw for $100. The saw can operate on either 110 or 220v and has a 1 hp motor. I am a hobbyist that mostly does work around the house, but would like to start doing some larger projects possibly including some cabinet building and it would be nice to cut my own 4×8 sheets without getting precuts at the lumber store. The price for the saw seems really fair, but the motor seems a little small, but maybe I am mistaken. Any thoughts on this tablesaw?

Thanks
Jim
 
#3 ·
Ditto. If you have to fight a dragon and a gorgon first, $100 is highway robbery. At that price there are probably no possible deal breakers, especially if that 1 horse motor is a RI Bullet. heck, if it has the dust door and the goose egg motor cover, you could triple your money. And I'll admit, I peeked at your profile trying to see where you are located <eg>

When (not if) you buy that bad boy, if the motor cover is missing, i got a great fiberglass reproduction from one of the guys om the OWWM site. Now i need to find a reproduction dust door…
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
If it's a '39, then it should be a pretty rare four footed beast… which is worth quite a lot even if in terrible shape. I wouldn't expect it to be plug-n-play, but would be a magnificent restoration candidate worthy of the task. Here is the 1939 catalog listing just for grins:

Font Poster Electronic instrument Machine Illustration


Cheers,
Brad
 

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#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
What kind of hobbyist are you ? If an old tool junkie ^^^ then no question go ahead and take it. If you plan to work with pine lumber from Home Depot that again it should work.
If you like to make real stuff, like an oak table with 4×4" legs and 4/2 top or a Hard Maple butcher block your 1HP old relic may just not cut in.
And take the above picture ^ with a pinch of salt. "Powerful" motor "Highly Efficient" and "Scientifically designed" on a table saw sound like "Good team player" on your resume.
 
#8 ·
Buy it! If you are disappointed, any old tool guy including myself would happily double your money. Seriously, I cannot explain it but that 1HP in good condition is far more than a current model 1 HP motor. I have the same thing with a 1 1/2 HP and have never bogged it down. If the saw is in good overall condition it is a great bargain. even if it needs some work, that's not bad.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
If you like to make real stuff, like an oak table with 4×4" legs and 4/2 top or a Hard Maple butcher block your 1HP old relic may just not cut in.
And take the above picture ^ with a pinch of salt. "Powerful" motor "Highly Efficient" and "Scientifically designed" on a table saw sound like "Good team player" on your resume.
- Carloz
Nonsense - design wise, that saw is no different than any other Unisaw made over the 70+ years of production, and will perform the same as one made in the 80's or 90's. As for the motor, that repulsion/induction motor will produce more peak horsepower than a more modern capacitor start motor (about 2.75hp compared to about 2hp for a cap start motor). And as Loren points out, those motors were much more substantial - the shipping weight on the 1hp R/I motor was 110 pounds! Far from an 'old relic'.

Cheers,
Brad
 
#10 ·
Dammit man!

It's 4:28pm Eastern as I write this. Why haven't you called the seller, agreed upon the asking price, scheduled pick up, and reported back? I for one am dying to find out if you purchased it, and to see some pictures. I once had a chance for a saw like that, original motor, four feet, not motor cover. I agreed to $350.00. This was over 12 years ago. I still think about that saw longingly.
 
#11 ·
Oh, the different is that you have a tool that was built in 1939! 78 years ago! That is difference enough for me…or you could spend the $100 on a craftsman 113 contractors saw. You decide.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
Sounds like I would been an idiot to pass this up. I will probably still feel like a bit of an idiot as I am not sure if I will be able to fully appreciate what I have. The saw is purchased and I will pick up this weekend. It is indeed a 4 footed model with rip fence, miter gauge, blade guard, a number of blades and throat plates, as well as a rolling cart that it sits on. The saw appears to be all original with the exception of a paint job. The sellers grandfather purchased it new and it has been sitting since he passed away. They are just looking to find it a good home and clear the space.

Thanks everyone for your feedback.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Wow… you did exceptionally well, and are now a member of the very exclusive FFU (four footed Unisaw) club! That price, with all the original accessories and extras, and a single owner machine on top of all that is outstanding. Now you need to get the serial number and register it over at the Vintagemachinery site (list here). Take pictures… lots of pictures… document everything. If you have any questions, need information, or just want some positive reinforcement (and envy), head on over to the OWWM site and post on your adventures!

Congrats.
Brad
 
#14 ·
Your profile doesn't list a location. If we knew where you were located I bet that there would be a Lumberjock near to you who would love to help you resurrect a vintage saw. BTW, you can't officially receive any of the traditional "you sucks" until you post an actual picture of the saw. I do hope you get it and that it is an actual '39 Unisaw as advertised. That would be a tremendous find.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
Great deal, you won't regret it. As Brad said go to OWWM.ORG for all the re-enforcement you can stand, as well as some good advice. The lowest know Unisaw serial number is A 100. All first year Unisaws are highly interesting.

Oh, we need pictures at both of those sites and here too. It's kind of an obligation when you receive a Unisaw.
 
#17 ·
Nonsense - design wise, that saw is no different than any other Unisaw made over the 70+ years of production, and will perform the same as one made in the 80 s or 90 s. As for the motor, that repulsion/induction motor will produce more peak horsepower than a more modern capacitor start motor (about 2.75hp compared to about 2hp for a cap start motor). And as Loren points out, those motors were much more substantial - the shipping weight on the 1hp R/I motor was 110 pounds! Far from an old relic .

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix
And what does peak power have to do with the nominal power of the motor ? You can only run a motor at the peak power for a very short period of time ( normally a fraction of a second ) otherwise it will burn down very fast. Nominal power is what it matters.
But I got your point of comparing the peak power to the nominal power of today's motors. Whatever makes you right.
And Yes !!! Horses at the time were much stronger than today's weak Chinese horses so 1 horse power at the time was much more than 1 horse power today !
 
#19 ·
My 1949 1HP, RI Unisaw has more power than my 3HP Sawstop. I would put it up against any "new" 3HP capacitor start motor. Why did I change? Friend cut his little finger off on Sat., my son ran the tip of his middle finger thru a saw on Tuesday and at the Friday night club meeting a member had had a circular saw kick back across his other hand. Wife told me to buy a Sawstop or stay out of the shop. I think someone wastelling me something.
 
#20 ·
That old Unisaw will be a solid performer for you. Mine is much newer, and has a more modern motor-but no complaints about that.

The one downside on that saw is the fence. They used the same pipe rails and fence components for years, and they were a pain in the butt. My first "real" saw was a Rockwell with the same setup, and I hated it. To cross cut, you had to slide the fence all the way to the end to remove it. And that finger at the far end, that's supposed to grip the far end rail, is worthless. No matter how hard you cinch it down, it will not hold the fence against a side thrust of any force. And there are still manufacturers who use that pathetic design.

The best fences are the T-square style. There are several brands, any of which would work well on that saw. If you want to keep the vintage aura of the saw for future resale to a collector, store the pipe rails and fence in a safe place and put a T square on. My saw came with an incomplete fence, which was fine with me, as I had wanted to try fabricating a rack and pinion fence system, similar in principal to the Dewalt job site saws, but more robust. That all worked out well, and I am happy with the result.

The Unfence is also a good design, and has been favorably reviewed by a number of LJs. I wouldn't mind finding one myself.
 
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