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Forum topic by Kilo19 posted 10-13-2017 04:34 PM 333 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kilo19

56 posts in 61 days


10-13-2017 04:34 PM

Topic tags/keywords: rustic traditional

So this may be lengthy but I’ll try to type what I’ve got in my head.

I take apart pallets and use, reuse, repurpose said wood. I’ve done my living room wall, master bedroom floor and cabinets and haven’t had any issues with it. This project however I feel could have issues. My goal is this:

1. The top I want to be made from glued pallet mains (the “2×4” runners that make up the frame of the pallet) They’ll be cut and cleaned, denailed, if any have any kind of metal, out it goes and I grab another. I’ll joint the faces and glue them together to make a top. The size I’m shooting for would be about 40”/42”(about the length of the pallet main)x6’/7’(arbitrary number). Then put a very thin layer of epoxy on top (maybe 1/8” or less). I want to see the laminate and nail holes, staining (not dirt) rust colors etc, but not make it so the kids can color and make it pretty. They’ve done that on our current table. I have about 50 pallets stacked up, another 50 taken apart drying, under cover, and about 30 set aside for this project now. So I don’t have a short supply, and can get more, and continue to get more. If any part is damaged it just gets sent to make charcoal…(something else i do to make the most of the material)

Ok so I said all that to ask this, with the top being glued and knowing that wood is alive. Should I put an edge band around the table, like a 2×4 or 1×4 (rustic board) to help with movement or would the epoxy cause/help any issues, with movement as well.

2. the legs and frame are going to made from 2×6s from a 100 yr old house, Going for a rough but clean board will laminate several together to make large trestles to hold the weight of the table top. ( i’m guessing it’ll be 200/250 lbs) I don’t think they’ll be any movement with these so I’m not worried here. (will try to get pics attached of a idea of how I want it to look)

I’m going todo a mock up in cad and use as a guide to get sizes and cut etc. but I keep going back to the top moving and am worried it’s gonna split wide open.

Thoughts, comments, concerns.
Know this, I want to build this and am prepared for spending time. Time I have, but not 2,000/5,000$ to spend. My wife has been wanting a large family table and I’ve been putting this idea together for about 1 1/2 yr so I’ve thought it through. ( i come from a background of construction and cabinet building so basic/custom wood working isn’t a big unknown.)

Oh, and I want to build this in sections (kinda obvious cuz there is no way in H* I could move, or get enough people to move this, or even fit it thru our doors.)
Top, 2 legs, top frame support, horizontal support

Thank you for your future help.

I like the angle legs, but not the angel supports in the middle

I like the horizontal supports in the middle, but not the leg frame construction.

-- Justin


8 replies so far

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Loren

9614 posts in 3483 days


#1 posted 10-13-2017 04:53 PM

An edgeband will just open up at the corners
when the top inside expands. Edgebanding is
only for composite boards like plywood that
hardly move at all.

The top should not be prone to splitting if
it is attached to the base in such a way that
it can move: slotted screw holes, figure-8
table top connectors, etc.

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Kilo19

56 posts in 61 days


#2 posted 10-13-2017 05:59 PM



An edgeband will just open up at the corners
when the top inside expands. Edgebanding is
only for composite boards like plywood that
hardly move at all.

The top should not be prone to splitting if
it is attached to the base in such a way that
it can move: slotted screw holes, figure-8
table top connectors, etc.

- Loren

I plan on using mortise and tenon joints, but have thought about some kind of a sliding dovetail on the underside? maybe…I haven’t’ done enough dovetails to take on something like yet.

-- Justin

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a1Jim

116566 posts in 3413 days


#3 posted 10-13-2017 06:12 PM

Loren is a 100% correct.

Take a look at this thread to see ways of connecting tops but still allowing for wood movement.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/62485

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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a1Jim

116566 posts in 3413 days


#4 posted 10-13-2017 06:13 PM

BTW
Welcome to Ljs, ENJOY!

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Kilo19

56 posts in 61 days


#5 posted 10-13-2017 06:16 PM



BTW
Welcome to Ljs, ENJOY!

- a1Jim

Thx. The site is very well put together, building friendly. As in, post your stuff up, show off work, projects etc…rather than just asking questions. But theres nothing wrong with asking questions.

Euripides — ‘Question everything. Learn something. Answer nothing.’

-- Justin

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Kilo19

56 posts in 61 days


#6 posted 10-13-2017 06:22 PM



Loren is a 100% correct.

Take a look at this thread to see ways of connecting tops but still allowing for wood movement.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/62485

- a1Jim

Those would allow movement, but what about the epoxy covering the top? Is this something that will cause the “bottom” to swell because the top is “not moveable”. I know I could put several coats of clear coat or poly, lacquer etc. instead but I really like the bar top look.

-- Justin

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bondogaposis

4477 posts in 2187 days


#7 posted 10-13-2017 07:03 PM

Should I put an edge band around the table, like a 2×4 or 1×4 (rustic board) to help with movement

No, edge banding will cause endless problems with wood movement. You can’t stop wood movement, only allow for it. Attaching the base will be the critical step in allowing for wood movement. I would guess for that design you are going to use lag screws to attach the trestles, which will be fine if you use oversized or slotted holes in the trestle when attaching the top, so the top can move with changes in humidity.

Those would allow movement, but what about the epoxy covering the top? Is this something that will cause the “bottom” to swell because the top is “not moveable”.

The top will move regardless of what finish you use. But to prevent cupping you should put at least a seal coat that is similar to the top coat on the underside. So the the top surface and the bottom surface react equally to changes in humidity.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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Kilo19

56 posts in 61 days


#8 posted 10-13-2017 07:09 PM

The top will move regardless of what finish you use. But to prevent cupping you should put at least a seal coat that is similar to the top coat on the underside. So the the top surface and the bottom surface react equally to changes in humidity.

- bondogaposis

Bingo, have a new answer I never thought of. I’ve heard of people putting a very thin layer of epoxy to seal up the wood, then they’ll pour the thickness there going for. I guess I can “seal” it on the underside, after its pretty much done…I was hoping there would be something that would either not allow the wood to move much, or allow the wood to move more uniformly.

‘So the the top surface and the bottom surface react equally to changes in humidity.”

Thanks

-- Justin

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