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HVLP Sprayer Decision

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Forum topic by Joel_B posted 10-09-2017 08:01 PM 1082 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Joel_B

326 posts in 1162 days


10-09-2017 08:01 PM

Hi,

I have decided after doing enough painting by hand that I would like an HVLP sprayer.
My last painting project was a large bathroom vanity that I updated with new doors and added two more drawers. I painted it by brush with SW Pro Classic paint. It came out pretty good but there are plenty of brush marks and runs, however they are not really that noticeable I think because of the lighting in that room.
Now I have a much bigger job to do, replacing the doors and drawers in my kitchen. I would like to spray them to give a more professional look and I think it would be much easier than painting by hand. Since I won’t be paying a pro thousands of dollars to do the work I can justify spending some money on a good sprayer. I am sure I will be using it on other projects as well. Here is a list of the units I am considering:

Fuji Semi Pro 2
Fuji Mini-Mite 3
Earlex Sprayport 6003
Capspray Titan 75

I am planning to use GF Enduro Pigmented Poly on the cabinets so any of these or even a cheaper HVLP will work.
But it would be nice to be able to spray Latex like SW Pro Classic or BM Advance. My understanding is that any of these will do it but the cheaper lower power units will require more thinning and more effort to get a good finish and it still maybe not be as good as the more powerful units. If I had to pick one right now I think the Fuji Mini-Mite 3 would be it.

It seems the Fuji Semi Pro 2 and Earlex 6003 are about equivalent in price and performance. There seems to be a lot of positive reviews on Fuji, and not much feedback on Earlex which makes me lean towards Fuji. But there also troubling comments on Fuji such it gets very hot, some of the parts are cheaply made, you have to buy a whip hose separately and can be easily damaged. Capsray seems to be perhaps higher quality and I only want to do this once so maybe the higher could be justified. I also see a lot recommendations for the 3M PPS system so that will add to the cost.

Thanks!

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA


16 replies so far

View jar944's profile

jar944

107 posts in 1218 days


#1 posted 10-09-2017 11:19 PM

Can’t comment on the specific models listed, however I do have a fuji mm4 that does fine with advance and everything else I’ve tried so far (including gf milk Paint that is as thick as yogurt out of the can)

If you want cheap, that does thick waterborne reasonably well, look at airless. I did my first kitchen with a $300 grayco and a fine finish tip.



View sawdustdad's profile

sawdustdad

268 posts in 666 days


#2 posted 10-10-2017 12:09 AM

I bought an inexpensive Wagner HVLP unit to try it out. I sprayed un-thinned MinWax poly on my workshop cabinets. It worked great, much better than I had expected. Cost was about $100.

If you are getting runs from brushing, you’ll likely get runs from spraying as it’s not the application method so much as the application technique that results in runs.

-- Murphy's Carpentry Corollary #3: Half of all boards cut to a specific length will be too short.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5376 posts in 2594 days


#3 posted 10-10-2017 12:20 AM

^^^ even a low cost gun will give you better results than the best paint brush.

Interesting to hear folks recommending airless sprayers. My cabinet guy used an airless for all his finishing (including lacquer) and it did a nice job. I sprayed my kitchen with an HVLP conversion gun, gravity feed variety, and it worked fine too.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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pontic

407 posts in 389 days


#4 posted 10-10-2017 01:15 AM



^^^ even a low cost gun will give you better results than the best paint brush.

Interesting to hear folks recommending airless sprayers. My cabinet guy used an airless for all his finishing (including lacquer) and it did a nice job. I sprayed my kitchen with an HVLP conversion gun, gravity feed variety, and it worked fine too.

- pintodeluxe


Yes my harbor freight does better than a brush any day.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

360 posts in 1450 days


#5 posted 10-10-2017 01:48 AM

I can’t say about the Earlex 6003 but I have the earlier version 6900 and it’s been a great unit for me. I can spray about anything with it and it even does fine with latex paint, properly thinned. I have heard about the heat problems with the Fuji models but I don’t have any experience with them. I have painted several projects with SW Superpaint and they came out very nice. I like the Targed coatings EM6500 WB and use it for most of my painted projects.

-- Earl

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Joel_B

326 posts in 1162 days


#6 posted 10-10-2017 01:58 AM

I realize an airless is less expensive and will do a good job with latex, but I don’t want to deal with a lot of overspray not to mention wasted paint.

Any idea how Target EM6500 compares to GF pigmented poly? I found a local dealer I can get the GF from and they will color match it for a reasonable price.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

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Joel_B

326 posts in 1162 days


#7 posted 10-10-2017 04:54 AM



If you are getting runs from brushing, you ll likely get runs from spraying as it s not the application method so much as the application technique that results in runs.

- sawdustdad

Yeah, the first thing I painted with brush and roller using SW Pro Classic was a cheap interior door with fake panels and heavy embossed wood grain. It came out perfect, can’t tell if it was brushed or sprayed. At that point I thought I would never want to spray. The vanity doors were another story being smooth maple, they show every imperfection. The runs were on the vertical sides of the doors, i wasn’t vigilant enough to watch for that. I am sure the next time around I would do better but really think HVLP is the way to go now.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View Rich's profile

Rich

1702 posts in 370 days


#8 posted 10-10-2017 05:04 AM

I disagree with the idea that a quality brush won’t give you a flawless finish, assuming you have the skill to use it. Spraying is no magic bullet either. You can mess that up just as easily, and do it faster.

The bottom line is that finishing is an art, and doing it well is extremely difficult, given all the variables. Viscosity, surface prep, temperature and humidity all factor in.

I brush, wipe, or spray depending on the surface and the material I’m applying. If doing a refinish an existing set of cabinets, get the doors off and do them laying flat. Same with drawers. You won’t get runs that way.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

454 posts in 384 days


#9 posted 10-10-2017 08:49 AM

My HF is the same one sold by Rockler. Works great.

You might also check this out. I think it looks comparable to spraying and is much easier. Gonna do this over the winter.

-- Andy - Seattle

View Desert_Woodworker's profile

Desert_Woodworker

1195 posts in 995 days


#10 posted 10-10-2017 11:03 PM



I disagree with the idea that a quality brush won t give you a flawless finish, assuming you have the skill to use it. Spraying is no magic bullet either. You can mess that up just as easily, and do it faster.

The bottom line is that finishing is an art, and doing it well is extremely difficult, given all the variables. Viscosity, surface prep, temperature and humidity all factor in.

I brush, wipe, or spray depending on the surface and the material I m applying. If doing a refinish an existing set of cabinets, get the doors off and do them laying flat. Same with drawers. You won t get runs that way.

- Rich


+1

-- Desert_Woodworker

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Carloz

758 posts in 372 days


#11 posted 10-10-2017 11:16 PM

There is a big step between Fuji 2 and 3 as the latter one can spray much wider varieties of finishes. There is a smaller step from 3 to 4, as the 4 does the same what 3 can (albeit better).
So I would forego Fuji 2 and go with either Fuji 3 or Earlex 6003. Both are 3 stage systems.
I have a Fuji 4 and enjoy it tremendously although I admit I underutilize it. It does have a learning curve and is far less forgiving to mistakes than a paintbrush. Still my very first attempt with waterbased undiluted polyurethane came out much better than Arm-R-Seal wipe on, which is the most forgiving of all.
Fuji is a Canadian company and the customer service is top notch.
Earlex belongs to Wagner SprayTech Corp. I have no experience with their support.
Capspray 75 is supposed to be the best but it is also far more expensive than the other two.
By the way I live very close to you so you can some to check it out if you want.

View Joel_B's profile

Joel_B

326 posts in 1162 days


#12 posted 10-10-2017 11:44 PM

So the Fuji 3 costs almost $200 more than the Earlex 6003 when you include the cost of the whip hose.
I wonder how much difference there is. I think the Fuji is rated at 6 PSI and Earlex 6003. I would like to save $200 but don’t want to do that if I am sacrificing performance and/or quality. I have heard you can buy Earlex at HD and return it if you don’t like it.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

View Desert_Woodworker's profile

Desert_Woodworker

1195 posts in 995 days


#13 posted 10-10-2017 11:56 PM

I have and use both a 2 and 3 stage system. If you can afford 4 or even a 5; even better, just sayin…
ps
Titan hands down with a 4-5, that would be on my wishlist- what a great family Christmas present :)

-- Desert_Woodworker

View John_H's profile

John_H

44 posts in 1487 days


#14 posted 10-11-2017 01:02 AM

I had a Fuji 3003 Q3 PRO and ran into the same problem with trying to spray latex – like SW Pro Classic. I just wasn’t getting good results.

I ended up selling it and went with a HVLP conversion gun – I already had a decent compressor. But I also bought a 2 quart pressure pot and for me, that was the ticket

My pressure pot has dual regulators. One regulates the pressure to the gun and the other regulates pressure to the pot. When I am setting up to spray latex I first turn off the air pressure to the gun and then adjust the pressure to the pressure pot until the fluid will actually squirt of the gun when I pull the trigger. Then I turn the air pressure back on and I am ready to go

So for me, a pressure pot is the way to go. I don’t have to thin anything. The pressure will force the fluid to the gun. If you are set on a turbine type system – I see they also make some ‘Remote Pressure Pot Kits’. Here is an example:

http://www.gleempaint.com/2qrt-remote-pp-kit.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091XQ164?tag=amz-mkt-chr-us-20&ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-a0027-def00-other-nomod-us000-pcomp-feature-scomp-wm-4-wl-prc0&ref=bit_scomp_sav0

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Lazyman

1240 posts in 1168 days


#15 posted 10-11-2017 02:01 AM

If you are primarily going to use it for this project and the occasionally after that, the Wagner 0518080 HVLP is a pretty good deal and works well for a DIYer tool, though definitely not a pro grade machine. If you think will use it frequently, then one of the other pro-grade machines will probably be worth extra dough.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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