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Easy technique for butt joint on a curve?

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Forum topic by scottkeen posted 10-06-2017 04:14 PM 406 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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scottkeen

48 posts in 765 days


10-06-2017 04:14 PM

I need to butt joint a 1-1/2” wide square cut piece to a curved piece.

Is there some easy technique to cut the 1-1/2” piece so that it butt joints to the curved piece perfectly?

See photo


10 replies so far

View BobAnderton's profile

BobAnderton

239 posts in 2629 days


#1 posted 10-06-2017 04:30 PM

You want to scribe the curved shape onto the other board and then cut to that scribed line. Here’s an example.

-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1207 posts in 1569 days


#2 posted 10-06-2017 05:00 PM

I would just find the angle, set up a miter saw, cut and butt it. The piece is too small to make a difference, is not going to be seen and you used the word, Perfect. It dosen’t happen in woodworking except for the woodworking TV heros some people have… ........... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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Rick_M

10640 posts in 2219 days


#3 posted 10-06-2017 05:07 PM

For rough work that won’t be seen I would sketch the curve and cut it with a jigsaw or bandsaw.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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scottkeen

48 posts in 765 days


#4 posted 10-06-2017 05:12 PM

Thanks guys. I forgot all about scribing. I was going to just sketch it and rough cut it to fit. As ya’all say, it’s a piece that won’t be seen.

It’s sandwiched between the top of this table, and the underside. Rather than use another whole sheet of 3/4” plywood for the middle layer, I’m putting in 1-1/2” strips in the middle layer. Makes it lighter too.

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

6433 posts in 3206 days


#5 posted 10-06-2017 05:39 PM

It appears that all of the “scribes” above concur that scribing is the solution!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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Dustin

408 posts in 579 days


#6 posted 10-06-2017 05:43 PM

Nice idea for removing excess weight, and I’m super jealous of whoever is receiving that awesome poker table!

-- "Ladies, if your husband says he'll get to it, he'll get to it. No need to remind him about it every 6 months."

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4480 posts in 2190 days


#7 posted 10-06-2017 06:06 PM

Scribe it and cut to the line on the band saw.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View oldnovice's profile

oldnovice

6433 posts in 3206 days


#8 posted 10-06-2017 08:16 PM

There is one harder way!
Use a pattern bit in a router, run the bearing along the desired curve and the cutting portion along the desired matching piece!

Told you this was going to be harder!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

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scottkeen

48 posts in 765 days


#9 posted 10-06-2017 08:19 PM

Along those same thoughts, I was thinking to build a pantorouter and a template of the curve, so I could cut it again for future tables.

http://woodgears.ca/pantorouter/index.html

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scottkeen

48 posts in 765 days


#10 posted 10-08-2017 08:43 PM

I’ve built about 2-dozen poker tables. This is the 2nd one I’m doing this way with 1-1/2” thick base and and a “grid” for one of the layers to build up the thickness rather than using a full sheet of plywood. The other tables I’ve built have no base, just a table playing surface and padded armrest rail with folding legs attached to the bottom of the playing surface. More for lightweight portability, lower cost, and just fold the legs and store. This one with a thick base and double pedestals with legs is going to be more like furniture.

You can see the grid in this photo and the edge banding. I just edge-banded the dealer cut-out in the photo, but did the entire edge around the table base.

This poker table I’m making for myself. :-)


Nice idea for removing excess weight, and I m super jealous of whoever is receiving that awesome poker table!

- Dustin

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