bandsaw boggle

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Forum topic by jaydad17 posted 02-02-2011 03:57 PM 1088 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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17 posts in 2792 days

02-02-2011 03:57 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw

hi everyone I once again need help. I am not a new woodworker but i am new to bandsaws. The thought of resawing thicker pieces appealed to me. I bought a new craftsman 14 inch bandsaw. It has the roller bearing guides. But when i try to resaw the blade deflects and veers away from the fence. What am i doing wrong or is there a problem with the saw. Thank you

-- Jay NE Tennessee

13 replies so far

View Hoakie's profile


306 posts in 3455 days

#1 posted 02-02-2011 04:04 PM


The bandsaw blade will naturally have some drift associated with it, regardless of size or brand. Bob Simmons recently posted a nice video on how to correct for this. You can also find plenty of other resources here or elsewhere by using the keywords bandsaw drift.

-- John H. [To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. ~Edison]

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2493 days

#2 posted 02-02-2011 04:27 PM

One of the best ideas I learned recently is to start your resawing with the table saw. Make a cut from each edge and cut as deep as you can (I advise making multiple passes – don’t try to cut 2” or more in a single pass). Then go to the bandsaw to finish the job. In theory, the bandsaw blade will seek the path of least resistance and that is where the table saw cuts are.

I use a thin kerf rip blade for this application.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View snowdog's profile


1158 posts in 3401 days

#3 posted 02-02-2011 05:09 PM

The vid was a bit long but very well done. I want that fence with the roller at the tip from rockler (I think) that he used to hold the work against the home made fence.

Quick edit, ok So I just bought it :)

-- "so much to learn and so little time"..

View RetiredCoastie's profile


999 posts in 2602 days

#4 posted 02-02-2011 05:50 PM

Thanks for the link to the video Jay. That’s a good way to adjust for the drift with an auxiliary fence and wedges. I usually adjust the fence to the drift but I like his technique.

-- Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3241 days

#5 posted 02-02-2011 06:27 PM

Jay, another suggestion that I have, which has not been mentioned, is that if you have not already done so trash the blade that came with the saw. The blades supplied by saw manufacturers are poor quality, at best. Go with a Woodslicer or Timberwolf blade and it will make a world of difference in your saw’s performance.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View dbray45's profile


3147 posts in 2195 days

#6 posted 02-02-2011 06:42 PM

I had the worst case of this and I figured out what I did wrong. On my bandsaw the blade looked as though it was tracking co-planer or straight but wasn’t. I tightened the blade a touch and adjusted the blade to ride a little more forward on the top belt above the guide, adjust the guide bearings accordingly to the new blade location. Be careful about the blade location on the bottom pulley. Watch the fingers, these blades are sharp.

I bought a 2×4, 2×6 and 2×10 in 6’ lengths, cut them in 3’ sections and used these to observe what the saw is doing – cheaper than the good lumber.

I don’t know if this is your problem but it is a starting point.

-- David in Damascus, MD

View Nomad62's profile


726 posts in 2377 days

#7 posted 02-02-2011 07:01 PM

A friend of mine does custom mouldings and uses his saw to cut 1/8” strips from 6-8” wood often; to do such work he has blades made with carbide tips and adjusts it tight. Works like a charm. The blade does all the work, and a bandsaw is a hard tool to get to do hard work, so you need to cut no corners.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

View jaydad17's profile


17 posts in 2792 days

#8 posted 02-02-2011 11:50 PM

Once again thank you all so much! Time to go practice.

-- Jay NE Tennessee

View jaydad17's profile


17 posts in 2792 days

#9 posted 02-03-2011 12:16 AM

Ok I lied one more question is what tooth angle and tpi is best for resawing

-- Jay NE Tennessee

View patcollins's profile


1419 posts in 2284 days

#10 posted 02-03-2011 12:50 AM

I recently went to a woodworking show and watched a bandsaw clinic given by Alex Snodgrass. He suggested not centering the blade on the crown of the wheel but the gullets on the crown of the wheel that way the teeth of the blade are where the support is. To me this made perfect sense and his results could not be argued with.

View The_Dude's profile


13 posts in 2089 days

#11 posted 02-03-2011 12:58 AM

3 to 4 TPI.

Get a woodslicer blade from highland hardware and you get both. The TPI varies from 3 to 4 to reduce vibration due to harmonics. This will give you an excellent cut requiring little sanding.

-- To the man who only has a hammer in his toolkit, every problem looks like a nail.

View lilredweldingrod's profile


2495 posts in 2526 days

#12 posted 02-03-2011 04:56 AM

Jay, this is my setup for resawing. It is right on the money.

I use the Woodslicer from Highland as well. I also swapped out the 1/2 hp motor for a 2 hp 220V as well. It handles 6 inch oak like a dream.

View dbray45's profile


3147 posts in 2195 days

#13 posted 02-03-2011 02:33 PM

I have both Timber wolf and Wood Slicer blades. Once you figure the sweet spot in blade alighnment and adjustment, these two blades are very nice. I use the TW blade for heavier stock and cuts and use the WS blade for veneer and thin resawing.

One thing about the Woodslicer blade that I have noted – surprisingly. The variable teeth, although quieter have a tendency to pull the wood into the blade. This can make the wood pull down when you start the cut and when you get within 4” to the end of the cut, use a push stick. I can see where the blade could pull you into the blade with great ease.

-- David in Damascus, MD

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