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Floating Vanity 48"

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Forum topic by mikewaters posted 10-01-2017 01:28 PM 279 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mikewaters

9 posts in 22 days


10-01-2017 01:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: floating vanity hanging cabinet

Hi everyone,

This is the first time I will be building a cabinet and it will be floating at that. I have all of my tools etc. Everything will be perfect and square. My issue is STRENGTH and how to make something that will be 350 pounds hang and stay on the wall..

There are 2×6 studs 16 on center behind the vanity. There is another full bath on the other side that will also have a floating vanity. I’m putting 2×6 horizontal block between the studs to add extra structural support and I may even sister stud some of them just because it is easy to do.

-This is potentially overkill, frankly, I don’t care. If anything bad happens after it is up my wife will never let me touch our home again. (no, seriously)

-Ditched the sliding dovetails and replaced them with Dado. I have a tracksaw and frankly, the sliding dovetails take forever and are a pain.. But if they are needed then I will certainly do it.
-I am still trying to figure out how people get that floating counter top effect.

I have to build 7 of these bad boys. One of them is 72” long.
Any thoughts or concerns please don’t hesitate.

  • Ignore the 19-1/4” measurement please*

All wood is 7ply wood. (not sure what species I’m going to go with or pre-finish)
When I begin working on them I will make sure to start a build thread.

Thank you so much everyone!!


9 replies so far

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mikewaters

9 posts in 22 days


#1 posted 10-01-2017 02:13 PM

(Reserved)

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jonah

1270 posts in 3083 days


#2 posted 10-01-2017 02:23 PM

You’re saying a 46” vanity is going to be 350lbs? Why on earth would it be so heavy?

A 46” cabinet with a countertop and sink(s) should be a quarter to half that.

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Rich

1725 posts in 373 days


#3 posted 10-01-2017 03:22 PM


You re saying a 46” vanity is going to be 350lbs? Why on earth would it be so heavy?

A 46” cabinet with a countertop and sink(s) should be a quarter to half that.

- jonah

A lot depends on things that aren’t mentioned, but a 3 cm slab of granite that size is over 125 lbs. Add on maybe 100 lbs for wood more for sink, hardware, etc, and you’re getting up there.

My concern is with the design. Why is the back of the cabinet 1-1/2 inches from the wall? Generally the screw plate is just slightly recessed from the back to make sure it screws tight. A French cleat would do well for your design, and I’d also run a support bar along the bottom in the back where it would be out of sight.

I think you also have an issue with the carcass itself. There’s little to prevent racking, and the dadoes alone aren’t going to hold it the way you have it configured. You’ll definitely need some reinforcing in the way of glue blocks (with screws), etc. I’d also consider putting two legs in the front. It’ll still be “floating” but that would go a long ways towards making it stable.

All in all, I think you have a ways to go. I don’t know why people take on such challenging designs for their first time at bat.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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mikewaters

9 posts in 22 days


#4 posted 10-01-2017 03:22 PM

The 48” one, no.
But the larger one yes.

That and I know one day, some bright person n will think it’s safe to stand on top to change a light bulb

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mikewaters

9 posts in 22 days


#5 posted 10-01-2017 03:25 PM

Rich,
Thanks you for the help.
I am a complete novice.

I need help, please, I have been stuck on this for three weeks. I can follow instructions. I just see so and find so many conflicting things.

The 1-1/2” gap is not a gap, the photos seem small – sorry. There is a 2×4 attached to the top and bottom back, it is seen on one of the pictures.

I can email sketchup file if it will help

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JackDuren

315 posts in 743 days


#6 posted 10-01-2017 03:30 PM

If the unit is 350 pounds, normal anchoring isn’t going to work..

If the top is a majority of weight than it is the main focus point.

Support the top and mount the cabinet after….

Use heavy angle brackets mounted directly to the studs….

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jbay

1741 posts in 683 days


#7 posted 10-01-2017 03:51 PM

What you have will work fine.
You don’t even need 1 1/2 for the screw cleat. 3/4” will work fine.

I’ve hung many, in fact I’m getting ready to hang 4 different size vanities as we speak.
One is 112” wide, One is 108” wide, the other 2 are only 54” wide.

I’ll be using french cleats so that I can use adhesive on the wall cleats and let them set up a couple of days for extra strength, but to be real, screwing the cleats into studs is all you need.

I also add a top cleat across the back. This gives more strength holding the cabinet to the cleats.
Sometimes I hold the back and the hang cleat down 3/4” and run the top cleat all the way to the back wall.
This ties everything together and makes it rock solid.

Here’s 2 that I did, how much do you think they weigh? The stone tops were probably 400lbs alone.

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

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mikewaters

9 posts in 22 days


#8 posted 10-01-2017 04:52 PM

can not send a PM because I need 5 posts.
Could you PM me, please? This is SSACTLY what I have been searching for.
Thank you so much

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mikewaters

9 posts in 22 days


#9 posted 10-01-2017 05:54 PM

Here is a vanity a person I met made, but it was very complex and he stopped responding to me for any guidance.
Anyways, the floating countertop in this photo is what I would like to do.

stiles/runs or frameless.. I am open to anything.
Looking for flush corners and a modern look

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