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New table saw feeling underpowered.help?! 21833

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Forum topic by Charlitwood posted 09-30-2017 08:09 PM 2814 views 2 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Charlitwood

14 posts in 77 days


09-30-2017 08:09 PM

Hello fellow woodworkers, I’ve recently purchased a new(to me) craftsman 21833. I got it home yesterday, leveled it out, adjusted the blade to be parallel with the miter slot.( it was over an 1/8 of an inch off!) I put a brand new Diablo 24t rip blade in. I was all excited, turned it on and it is bogging out when ripping CEDAR!!!! Now, I’m new to table saws as I’ve been mostly just turning wood and had a crapy hf ts just for cutting blanks. But i feel like this saw should not be bogging out like this… I’m pretty upset with my purchase as i picked this up on CL for $400. I was inbetween this and an older ridgid ts2412 for $200… I figured the newer saw would be better… Any thoughts of why it’s bogging? Am i overlooking something? At this point i feel like the hf ts cut performed better.


24 replies so far

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firefighterontheside

16948 posts in 1695 days


#1 posted 09-30-2017 09:02 PM

Typical reasons for something like that would be belt slipping, pulley loose on shaft, blade on backwards.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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Charlitwood

14 posts in 77 days


#2 posted 09-30-2017 09:15 PM

Well, i will admit when i first put the blade on i put it on backwards…. But i noticed i did that right away. I will check the tension, and the pully tonight, thank you! Its also plugged into a pretty long ext. cord… Ive been reading that also could be an issue. The loose pully and belt would not surprise me as the original owner put this thing together terribly!!!

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firefighterontheside

16948 posts in 1695 days


#3 posted 09-30-2017 09:29 PM

Yes, a long extension cord would not help. what gauge is the cord? I’m unfamiliar with that saw. How many HP?

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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a1Jim

116588 posts in 3416 days


#4 posted 09-30-2017 09:51 PM

Welcome to Ljs
In the days that I owned a sears table saws the keys in the keyway would always break like Bill asked above about the gauge of your extension cord? I would not use anything less than 12 gauge and if it’s longer than 15ft perhaps 10 gauge.
Looking online sears rates your saw at 1 3/4 hp knowing sears they probably overrate the HP so chances are your saw’s Hp is somewhere between 1 1/4-1 1/2 hp not an extremely powerful saw but it should be able to cut cedar fine especially with a new blade. You might check and see if the wood is pinching the saw blade or your riving knife or if your feed rate is too fast. Also, the belt could be slipping like bill said.
I teach new woodworkers and have had a couple of them over the years start the table saw with the wood up against the blade, that’s a df definite no no, that can burn your motor up.
you said your new to table saws here’s a great blog on the ABCs of table saws.
http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/32154

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Charlitwood

14 posts in 77 days


#5 posted 09-30-2017 09:53 PM

Here is the model and specs.

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AlaskaGuy

3660 posts in 2148 days


#6 posted 09-30-2017 09:57 PM


Yes, a long extension cord would not help. what gauge is the cord? I m unfamiliar with that saw. How many HP?

- firefighterontheside

What I found on that saw, powered by a potent 1-3/4 HP, 3450 RPM motor

Amps 15 / 7.5

Cord Type 14 gauge

https://www.searsoutlet.com/10-in-Contractor-Saw-Sears%2321833-/d/product_details.jsp?pid=32271&mode=seeAll

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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AlaskaGuy

3660 posts in 2148 days


#7 posted 09-30-2017 10:00 PM

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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Rich

1984 posts in 428 days


#8 posted 09-30-2017 10:05 PM

14 gauge is plenty, but like Jim said, it depends on the length. The cord might be able to handle the amperage, but you’ll get greater voltage drop with smaller gauges over a given length. I buy the 12 ga at HF for any extension cord I need. They cost the same as smaller gauges at HD and Ace.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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firefighterontheside

16948 posts in 1695 days


#9 posted 09-30-2017 10:08 PM

It appears that you actually have 1 3/4 hp. Should cut thru cedar with a 24 tooth diablo like butter.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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Rich

1984 posts in 428 days


#10 posted 09-30-2017 10:17 PM

Can you tell if it’s the motor that’s bogging down? All of the suggestions above regarding slippage, etc, would cause the blade to slow down, but the motor would continue to run at full RPM. Like Bill said, that should glide right through cedar.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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knotscott

7788 posts in 3214 days


#11 posted 09-30-2017 10:23 PM

How thick is the cedar? 1” should be fine, but 12/4” might be tough sledding. Straight flat wood is a lot easier to cut than warped wood that’s twisting and fighting the saw.

Does the blade spin freely? Lots of good ideas to check into above….power cord, belt, etc….I’d also test the run capacitor.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Jerry's profile

Jerry

76 posts in 2991 days


#12 posted 09-30-2017 11:58 PM

Hi,

I would also check under the wiring cover on the motor and make sure that it is correctly pig tailed for 120 operation, many times they will be pig tailed for 220V and when you run them with a 120V cord they only use half of the motors winding, effectively giving you half the HP rating. It will act like it is running slow, lacking torque, generally very poor performance as you describe.

I had purchased a very nice but used Grizzly contractors saw that had this very problem, a 5 cent wire nut and a quick glance at the schematic posted right under the protective cover made it run like champ! I felt bad for the guy, (A casual friend) and offered to let him buy it back after he saw it spin up and scream through a piece of hickory about 2” thick!

Looking at your motors data plate in the photo I guarantee you that this is your problem. If the wiring diagram is not under the “Bumped out” shroud on the motor look in the owners manual, you will find what you are looking for there.

Good luck.

Jerry

Here ya go! This is an excerpt from the 21833’s manual, Check your wiring to make sure the wire numbers correspond to 120V Operation

EG: #3 and #1 are wire nutted together along with either the black or white wire on your saws power cord (AC is not polarity sensitive)

then make sure

#2 and #4 tied together and all three wire nutted together with either the black or white wire on your saws power cord.

Just make sure your saw is unplugged before taking things electrically apart., I know you know to do this but a reminder to even the most qualified can use safety reminders!

Enjoy

-- "The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives should be a Store, Not a Govt. Agency"

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William Shelley

479 posts in 1308 days


#13 posted 10-01-2017 01:02 AM

Cedar? Make sure the wood isn’t pinching the blade. If it’s green cedar, it might be doing that. Which would explain the bogging down.

-- Woodworking from an engineer's perspective

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jonah

1471 posts in 3137 days


#14 posted 10-01-2017 02:54 AM

You mentioned squaring the blade up the miter slots, but did you square the fence up to the miter slots/blade?

The behavior you describe could be the wood pinching the blade because the fence isn’t square to the blade.

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Charlitwood

14 posts in 77 days


#15 posted 10-01-2017 03:15 AM

Im not very good with electrical stuff… I opened up the box and got pretty confused…

As for the blade being aligned with the miter slot, yes the fence is also.

Thank you everyone for your help, this forum has been incredibly kind!!!

Plugged the saw directly into the the wall no difference… I’m really hoping it’s the wiring. :/

Sorry if the picture is sideways, it’s not in my phone but the again neither was the last one i posted… And it posted sideways.

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