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Table Saw Blade Suggestions for Resawing

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Forum topic by riverb posted 02-01-2011 03:30 AM 3092 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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riverb

45 posts in 2136 days


02-01-2011 03:30 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw blade resawing

I am about to start building a crib for my daughter and I am going to make all the slats 1/2”. since I don’t have a planer or a jointer I have to buy dimensional lumber. I also need a new blade (or 2). So I am trying to figure out if I should buy a rip blade just for the resawing and then a crosscut blade for my crosscuts. I don’t mind changing blades if they will do a better job. My current setup is the blade that came with my Rigid Portable Saw (don’t laugh) so anything is going to feel like cutting butter. I know I need a better blade but just haven’t bought one/two yet.

Any thoughts?


10 replies so far

View Kevin's profile

Kevin

462 posts in 2667 days


#1 posted 02-01-2011 03:35 AM

Could get just a nice combo blade such as a 50T or get 30T and a 80T.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU84R011-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B0000225V8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1296524187&sr=8-3

$58 bucks for that blade which is a good deal.

Kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY

View riverb's profile

riverb

45 posts in 2136 days


#2 posted 02-01-2011 03:43 AM

I thought about that but didn’t know how well it would do on the resaw

View bigike's profile

bigike

4050 posts in 2750 days


#3 posted 02-01-2011 03:47 AM

A thin kerf rip blade from freud this is what i use. I think any rip blade will be good though that is what your doing when you resaw. ;)

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4541 posts in 2536 days


#4 posted 02-01-2011 03:47 AM

I use a combination blade 95% of the time. It works good for both crosscuts and ripping. However, if I am going to do a lot of ripping I switch to a dedicated rip blade. The primary difference is that it cuts faster. A secondary advantage is that it cuts with a flat bottom. That’s good if you are cutting a groove and/or using your blade as a dado stack by making multiple passes.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7143 posts in 2375 days


#5 posted 02-01-2011 04:07 AM

Ditto on what Rich says. When ripping 8/4 I use a Freud 24T Rip that is best for >3/4” stock, but since you are going to use dimensional lumber something like the 30T Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip (LM75R) might better suit you.

Truth be told, if you are not going to rip that much material then the 50T Combo that Kevin linked will do everything you need. I use this blade a lot.

My 2-cents…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7210 posts in 2837 days


#6 posted 02-01-2011 04:23 AM

Since resawing can involve ripping upwards of full blade height, I’d go with a decent 24T thin kerf ripper like the Freud LU87, Infinity 010-124, DeWalt DW7124PT, CMT 202.024.10, etc. Always a solid choice to have in your arsenal. Your saw will have an easier time spinning a blade like that. You’re going to have to clean up the surface left by resawing no matter what blade you use.

Eventually you’ll want to upgrade that stock blade too…that one’s provided to cut your neighbor’s junk wood! ;-). If you go with the 24T ripper for thicker stock, you won’t need heavy ripping ability from your other blade. You could always go with a typical 40T to 50T general purpose/combo blade, but there’d be some overlap with the rip blade, or you could upgrade to a cleaner cutting 60T blade like the Infinity 010-060, Forrest WWI, Freud LU88R010, or Ridgid Titanium R1060C (by Freud)....these blades will all leave a cleaner cut in rips up to 5/4”, cleaner crosscuts, and cleaner ply/sheetgood cuts. You’d only need to swap in the 24T blade for ripping thicker than 5/4”.

picking saw blades

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View D_Allen's profile

D_Allen

495 posts in 2245 days


#7 posted 02-01-2011 04:34 AM

I have done some resawing of this kind in the past…but no more! This is why I bought a bandsaw. IMHO using a TS for ripping anything that thick is too dangerous. Anything close to 2” and I was burning wood anyway!

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

View Keith Fenton's profile

Keith Fenton

325 posts in 2381 days


#8 posted 02-01-2011 05:00 AM

I’ve been stuck resawing on the table saw but everybody on this forum telling me how dangerous it is does worry me. I have to resaw 8” to 10” boards and it’s too much to do on the weak bandsaw that I have access to. So I cut 3” into each side of the board on the table saw and do the last 2-4” in the bandsaw.

I am thinking about getting a big band saw but I have no place of my own really in which to use it, I don’t need it very often and of course it is expensive. Another thing I have been thinking about is if I can make it safer to do on the table saw.

-- Scroll saw patterns @ http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com

View riverb's profile

riverb

45 posts in 2136 days


#9 posted 02-01-2011 05:17 AM

the largest board that I will be resawing is 3.5”. but most will be 2.5 and 1.5

View riverb's profile

riverb

45 posts in 2136 days


#10 posted 02-06-2011 12:48 AM

well i took knotscott’s advice and went with the multi-blade route. (Freud LU87, LU88R010) I also ordered the gripper system to help make this a safer project.

Thanks guys

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