LumberJocks

Another dust collector question

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by ChuckC posted 01-31-2011 07:34 PM 756 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View ChuckC's profile

ChuckC

724 posts in 1688 days


01-31-2011 07:34 PM

I just joined the ranks of many of my fellow LJ’s and picked up a HF 2HP DC. I had a coupon for $139 and couldn’t pass it up. It’s been sitting in my shop, assembled and unused, for a couple of weeks now. Like everything else I do I’ve been agonizing over my duct work and how to go about it. I also spent hours on this site looking at the solutions other people came up with and plenty of time on the Bill Pentz site. I think the more I read the less I learn :-(
In the end I figured I’d like to have one fixed run going down a single wall (around 20’) and I’ll plug my stuff in along the way (4 tools). For my other tools I’ll have a 4” flex hose that they will share and i’ll just plug it in as I need it.

My question concerns the one main running down one of the walls.
I know that a 5” main line is ideal for this DC. Like everyone else, sourcing 5” components is a lot harder than 4”. So, for such a short run (~20’) will the increase to 5” from 4” make that big of a difference?


9 replies so far

View brtech's profile

brtech

714 posts in 1676 days


#1 posted 01-31-2011 07:38 PM

20’ is not short. However, it’s the only practical choice. Just don’t do anything else that would lower the airspeed, like put the flex at the end of the 20’, or use 90 degree bends anywhere.

Get the Wynn filter!

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2741 days


#2 posted 01-31-2011 07:39 PM

I have a 2HP system and I use the 4” thin wall PVC stuff with no problem. My longest run is about 50 feet.

It had a 5” duct also, but I reduced it. A lot easier to go to Lowes or Home Depot to get more when you need it.

Here’s a little video I did for the dust collection in my shop.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View ChuckC's profile

ChuckC

724 posts in 1688 days


#3 posted 01-31-2011 11:09 PM

My plan is to run about 20’ (probably a little less) down one wall directly from the DC. There will be no 90’s but probably 2 45’s. It will also be only around 3’ off the floor which is closer to the tool as opposed to running it on the ceiling. Along the way I’ll have 4 wye’s (each with a blast gate) that will branch off as short as possible length of 4” flex tube to the tool.

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5387 posts in 1985 days


#4 posted 01-31-2011 11:42 PM

I run 2 4” runs, one upper, one lower. I have drops that simply have a hose hanging off of them to connect to bench top tools… So from the HF DC, I go 5” in and out of the Thien separator, then I go to the 5×4x4 wye, in to the upper and lower trunks. I pull from both top and bottom of all of my major tools, this approach has been very effective for me. I wish I had a particle counter so that I can tell you EXACTLY how effective. If anyone wants to rent me a Dylos meter, let me know!

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6968 posts in 1667 days


#5 posted 01-31-2011 11:46 PM

This may be obvious but why don’t you run TWO 10’ runs, one in each direction, with the DC in the CENTER? This will cut your overall distance to each machine in half.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View ChuckC's profile

ChuckC

724 posts in 1688 days


#6 posted 02-01-2011 12:11 AM

Great info. I plan on running a 5” into and out of a Thien too. From there a 4” (I think) down 1 wall and leave another 4” for on-demand use. I’m trying hard to not over think this but I fear it’s too late ….

I originally had the DC in the middle, on the wall. That displaced the tools that were there before and the new shop layout got ugly and very inefficient. I have everything on wheels so I spent the better part of a day playing Tetris-With-Tools trying to find the best fit which put the DC on the back wall, in the corner, facing the front. I’ll only have a couple of 45’s to get the pipe at the right height and it’s all straight from there.

View greglwood's profile

greglwood

10 posts in 1426 days


#7 posted 02-01-2011 06:02 AM

I use 4” and have runs of about 25 ft which along with 2 1/2” split that goes up and over and backdown on top of the blade of the table saw. I don’t have any issues.

-- Greg, Tennessee, http://www.sawstopcentral.com

View crank49's profile

crank49

3524 posts in 1724 days


#8 posted 02-01-2011 06:28 AM

I run a 4” and a 2-1/2” open at the same time on my HF DC and it works great. The 4” is connected to either the TS or the Joiner while the 2-1/2” is connected to the BS or belt/disk sander. I don’t use the DC on my planer because that machine makes way too many stringy chips for its 2-1/2” port. It needs the higher pressure of the shop vac so that’s what I use on it.

Over all I think you have a good plan; just go with it and get it running. It’s really nice to run the TS and not have any thing to clean up afterwards.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View NBeener's profile

NBeener

4806 posts in 1927 days


#9 posted 02-01-2011 07:04 AM

I also allowed my HF DC to acclimate to my shop for a few months.

Once it reached Equilibrium Moisture Content, I let ‘er rip :-)

Enjoy !

-- -- Neil

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase