Another dust collector question

20’ is not short. However, it’s the only practical choice. Just don’t do anything else that would lower the airspeed, like put the flex at the end of the 20’, or use 90 degree bends anywhere.

Get the Wynn filter!

I have a 2HP system and I use the 4” thin wall PVC stuff with no problem. My longest run is about 50 feet.

It had a 5” duct also, but I reduced it. A lot easier to go to Lowes or Home Depot to get more when you need it.

Here’s a little video I did for the dust collection in my shop.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

My plan is to run about 20’ (probably a little less) down one wall directly from the DC. There will be no 90’s but probably 2 45’s. It will also be only around 3’ off the floor which is closer to the tool as opposed to running it on the ceiling. Along the way I’ll have 4 wye’s (each with a blast gate) that will branch off as short as possible length of 4” flex tube to the tool.

I run 2 4” runs, one upper, one lower. I have drops that simply have a hose hanging off of them to connect to bench top tools… So from the HF DC, I go 5” in and out of the Thien separator, then I go to the 5×4x4 wye, in to the upper and lower trunks. I pull from both top and bottom of all of my major tools, this approach has been very effective for me. I wish I had a particle counter so that I can tell you EXACTLY how effective. If anyone wants to rent me a Dylos meter, let me know!

-- Manufacturer of fine quality sawdust since 1984. Comments and advice on my shop welcome. Check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/workshop. Gladly accepting shop build donations!

This may be obvious but why don’t you run TWO 10’ runs, one in each direction, with the DC in the CENTER? This will cut your overall distance to each machine in half.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

Great info. I plan on running a 5” into and out of a Thien too. From there a 4” (I think) down 1 wall and leave another 4” for on-demand use. I’m trying hard to not over think this but I fear it’s too late ….

I originally had the DC in the middle, on the wall. That displaced the tools that were there before and the new shop layout got ugly and very inefficient. I have everything on wheels so I spent the better part of a day playing Tetris-With-Tools trying to find the best fit which put the DC on the back wall, in the corner, facing the front. I’ll only have a couple of 45’s to get the pipe at the right height and it’s all straight from there.

I use 4” and have runs of about 25 ft which along with 2 1/2” split that goes up and over and backdown on top of the blade of the table saw. I don’t have any issues.

-- Greg, Tennessee, http://www.sawstopcentral.com

I run a 4” and a 2-1/2” open at the same time on my HF DC and it works great. The 4” is connected to either the TS or the Joiner while the 2-1/2” is connected to the BS or belt/disk sander. I don’t use the DC on my planer because that machine makes way too many stringy chips for its 2-1/2” port. It needs the higher pressure of the shop vac so that’s what I use on it.

Over all I think you have a good plan; just go with it and get it running. It’s really nice to run the TS and not have any thing to clean up afterwards.

-- Michael :-{| Diapers and politicians both need to be changed often; and for the same reason.

I also allowed my HF DC to acclimate to my shop for a few months.

Once it reached Equilibrium Moisture Content, I let ‘er rip :-)

Enjoy !

-- -- Neil