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Help with "stuck" clamp

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Forum topic by BB1 posted 09-23-2017 04:36 PM 884 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BB1

1212 posts in 1047 days


09-23-2017 04:36 PM

I am not sure what I did but I am unable to get this Bessy clamp opened up. When I tried to adjust, the handle actually separated from the unit. I can put the handle back in place but still not able to manipulate the clamp in order to open the jaws. Feeling stupid that I cannot figure this out. Turning once again to the LJ…any suggestions would be very welcome


17 replies so far

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BB1

1212 posts in 1047 days


#1 posted 09-23-2017 04:44 PM

One other question…any suggestions on the best way to remove old glue drips from clamps (other than avoiding or cleaning immediately…two obviously superior options that will, hopefully, be used in the future).

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BlasterStumps

975 posts in 638 days


#2 posted 09-23-2017 05:07 PM

can you remove the red pads from between the jaws. they will be tight but I think they will slide out with a little force. Once they are out, there should be enough slack for the threads to work.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

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Clarkie

466 posts in 2040 days


#3 posted 09-23-2017 05:12 PM

Try tapping the bottom of the bottom jaw with a mallet. Next, wedge a flat putty knife between the jaws and slowly and easily pop them apart.

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Rich

3876 posts in 788 days


#4 posted 09-23-2017 05:19 PM

The jaw locks against the bar by cam action back and against it. Try taking a heavy non-marring hammer, like a dead blow, and rap on the part of the jaw that the handle goes into. Clarkie’s suggestion to wedge the faces apart down near the bar might help it pop open once the jaw unlocks from the bar.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Jim Jakosh

21722 posts in 3304 days


#5 posted 09-23-2017 05:39 PM

Try smacking that black piece( that the screws goes into) with a block of wood and a hammer to release the cam action that holds it tight. Then you might be able to pry it apart easily.

Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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cabmaker

1740 posts in 3008 days


#6 posted 09-23-2017 05:39 PM

The only suggestion i have is to throw it in the trash and go get you some pipe clamps

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Fred Hargis

5173 posts in 2692 days


#7 posted 09-23-2017 06:03 PM

I would have suggested some of the remedies already mentioned, but for cleaning the glue of the bars, a heat gun really works well. It softens the glue allowing it to be easily removed.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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BB1

1212 posts in 1047 days


#8 posted 09-23-2017 07:02 PM

And…did a little tapping with a hammer, wedged a putty knife between the heads…this allowed me to slide off the red face AND that was all it took. A big thank you for all the suggestions. Once again, LJ to the rescue!

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bondogaposis

5088 posts in 2550 days


#9 posted 09-23-2017 07:49 PM


One other question…any suggestions on the best way to remove old glue drips from clamps (other than avoiding or cleaning immediately…two obviously superior options that will, hopefully, be used in the future).

- BB1

The best way is to use a heat gun and a putty knife. Once you get them clean, wax them, and in the future glue will pop right off. I’ve learned the hard way that the best practice is to wax them when they are new and unused.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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BB1

1212 posts in 1047 days


#10 posted 09-23-2017 09:52 PM

I think I have most off. Do you just use paste wax?

One other question…any suggestions on the best way to remove old glue drips from clamps (other than avoiding or cleaning immediately…two obviously superior options that will, hopefully, be used in the future).

- BB1

The best way is to use a heat gun and a putty knife. Once you get them clean, wax them, and in the future glue will pop right off. I ve learned the hard way that the best practice is to wax them when they are new and unused.

- bondogaposis


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pontic

640 posts in 807 days


#11 posted 09-23-2017 09:59 PM

Parallel clamps shouldn’t be over tightened. Don’t force warped pieces together with it or drive tight tenons in with them.
Those things are what pipe clamps are for.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

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EricLew

222 posts in 1565 days


#12 posted 09-23-2017 10:09 PM

For the glue issue, although I haven’t had to do it, I have heard a wire brush works well. Covering the bars with craft paper or painters tape prior to glue up will eliminate the issue

-- I love the smell of coffee in the morning, and sawdust in the afternoon

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syenefarmer

512 posts in 3279 days


#13 posted 09-23-2017 11:32 PM

Any wax that doesn’t contain silicone will be OK to use.

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Kazooman

1237 posts in 2151 days


#14 posted 09-23-2017 11:53 PM


Parallel clamps shouldn t be over tightened. Don t force warped pieces together with it or drive tight tenons in with them.
Those things are what pipe clamps are for.

- pontic

I can’t resist. Please forgive any unintentional aspersions. I always thought that eliminating warped pieces and tight tenons were a part of the craft. Clamps are what we use to hold the pieces we have shaped in the proper alignment while the glue dries. Using any clamp to force a piece into submission is not a good idea.

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TheFridge

10705 posts in 1685 days


#15 posted 09-24-2017 12:21 AM

Johnsons paste wax paper works for me. It’ll pop right off.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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