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Using taper jig

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Forum topic by opalko posted 01-26-2011 07:06 PM 2301 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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opalko

107 posts in 1786 days


01-26-2011 07:06 PM

I am making some simple legs for a nightstand that taper from about 5” from the bottom of the leg at a thickness of 1.5” to 1” at the bottom of the leg. Each leg is tapered on any inside face (so 2 faces for each leg). I am using this jig:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jigs/super-simple-tapering-jig/

What I am running into are 2 problems:

  1. The top of the tapers are not perpendicular to the edge of the leg. They are more sloped so that one top corner of the taper starts higher than the opposite corner! I have double checked the blade and leg for square.
  2. This throws off the adjacent taper on the next inside face when the leg is turned 1/4 turn. If the previous face had a taper that sloped from say 6” to 5”, then on the adjacent face the taper will do the same thing and now a taper at 5” meets a taper at 6”!

It’s difficult to explain but obvious when you see a picture, which I’ll try to add later . But for now, you can sort of see it in this diagram which shows a very similar configuration to what I’m trying to do. On the back left leg you can see where I added 2 diagonal lines representing how the taper is ending up on my legs. Any ideas??

Cheers
Robert


16 replies so far

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jbell2355

21 posts in 1559 days


#1 posted 01-26-2011 07:11 PM

Just be mindful to cut the correct taper first. Think about how the leg will ride on the sled or fence after the first cut. As long as you cut the right one first you won’t have a problem.The alternative is to tape the cutoff back on, or use a little block that holds the foot of the leg in the correct position. Good luck.

-- She was only a rancher's daughter, but all of the horsemen knew her.

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TheDane

3990 posts in 2414 days


#2 posted 01-26-2011 07:18 PM

Are you taping the cut-off back on the leg after you cut a taper?

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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opalko

107 posts in 1786 days


#3 posted 01-26-2011 07:26 PM

Not taping it back on. Should I be? Why?

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TheDane

3990 posts in 2414 days


#4 posted 01-26-2011 07:38 PM

To maintain the same degree of taper, the stock needs to be approximately the same size on each cut. You can accomplish that by taping the cut-off back on. When I tape the cut-off back on, I adjust it to account for the material lost in the kerf.

If you cut a taper, then rotate the stock so the taper you just cut is either against the base of the jig or the fence, the angle of the first cut will effect the second cut and so on. Judging from your drawing, that is what appears to be happening to the rear leg.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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opalko

107 posts in 1786 days


#5 posted 01-26-2011 07:42 PM

Gerry, thanks, although I don’t think that is what is happening. When I cut one face only, the top of the taper is not square to the edge of the stock. I’ll take a photo of a single taper tonight to show here.

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TheDane

3990 posts in 2414 days


#6 posted 01-26-2011 08:00 PM

Wow … that almost sounds like either the bed of the jig isn’t flat, or the blade isn’t true 90-degrees to the table.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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CharlieM1958

15811 posts in 2969 days


#7 posted 01-26-2011 08:18 PM

...or the leg stock is not perfectly flat/square to begin with.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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Jim Finn

1745 posts in 1673 days


#8 posted 01-26-2011 10:06 PM

IF you want to make two tapers on the same leg I suggest you build and use the jig referred to in your link as an “adjustable taper jig” instad of the “Smple Jig”. I made one and it works well for me.

-- In God We Trust

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opalko

107 posts in 1786 days


#9 posted 01-26-2011 11:00 PM

I’ll check all of these things tonight and report back!
Thanks

View Richard's profile

Richard

1103 posts in 1441 days


#10 posted 01-26-2011 11:00 PM

That jig should work just fine if everything else is adjusted correctly, as long as your only doing a taper on 2 sides of the leg and not putting the 1st tapered side against the fence when you cut the 2nd one.

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Richard

1103 posts in 1441 days


#11 posted 01-26-2011 11:14 PM

Here is a link to another adjustable jig here on LJ’s.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/43377

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TheDane

3990 posts in 2414 days


#12 posted 01-26-2011 11:31 PM

If you plan on doing a lot of tapered cuts, I don’t think you can beat the jig designed by Charles Neil – http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/references/taperjig.pdf

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1745 posts in 1673 days


#13 posted 01-27-2011 03:51 AM

I have made a jig that has a nail point to insert at the center point of the small end of the leg to be tapered . It is at the push point. I put the center of the leg on that nail point, clamp tight,cut one taper, and spin it to make the second cut. Works like a charm. I got the idea form a wood working ” on line magazine” but I do not remember which one. It has been over a year ago now. There was a video showing its use.

-- In God We Trust

View bobsmyuncle's profile

bobsmyuncle

110 posts in 1442 days


#14 posted 01-27-2011 04:29 AM

Here is the best way I’ve found to make tapered legs. Dead simple.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Tapered_Legs_On_A_Planer/

View wseand's profile

wseand

2613 posts in 1793 days


#15 posted 01-27-2011 04:33 AM

I have switched to the joiner method. I have found it to be a bit more accurate and no setup and less sanding.

-- Bill - "Freedom flies in your heart like an Eagle" Audie Murphy

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