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Universal width Resaw fence

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Forum topic by newwoodbutcher posted 09-11-2017 01:50 AM 344 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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newwoodbutcher

678 posts in 2634 days


09-11-2017 01:50 AM

To eliminate the hassles of constant blade changing, I have two band saws, one with a narrow set of blades for curved work and one dedicated to resawing. It was still a bit of a pain to change the height of the resaw fence to keep the upper bearings close to the material for a variety of width boards. I don’t remember where I saw this idea but it struck me as a brilliant solution. It’s made of double thickness ¾” Birch plywood. I added the bridge across the top to the original to keep the two sides of the fence parallel/co-planer. I attached the whole thing to my Kreg fence shellacked and waxed the bearing surfaces and it works like a charm. The whole project took less than an hour. now I can resaw any width board to any thickness with the same (permanent universal) fence. Thought you all might like to check it out. Sorry I can’t figure out how to rotate the pics.

-- Ken


13 replies so far

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AlaskaGuy

3423 posts in 2093 days


#1 posted 09-11-2017 01:53 AM

No longer needed

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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Loren

9433 posts in 3432 days


#2 posted 09-11-2017 01:55 AM

On a PC you rotate a pic by right clicking
on it in the file view and select rotate. The
picture is automatically resaved in the
rotated position.

Interesting idea on the fence. I have a saw
I only use for resawing too.

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newwoodbutcher

678 posts in 2634 days


#3 posted 09-11-2017 01:56 AM

OK I’ll try that

-- Ken

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AlaskaGuy

3423 posts in 2093 days


#4 posted 09-11-2017 02:03 AM

Dual post

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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bigblockyeti

4566 posts in 1505 days


#5 posted 09-11-2017 02:05 AM

I need to make something like that for my saw. My fence is almost 3’ long and tall enough to just slide under the blade tensioning wheel. As a result I can’t lower the upper blade blade guide lower than ~13” unless the fence is almost 2” from the blade. I’ve found having the upper guide far above work that isn’t very wide still works OK as I’m able to get adequate tension on the blade but running a 1.3tpi blade with too much exposed is an unnecessary risk.

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newwoodbutcher

678 posts in 2634 days


#6 posted 09-11-2017 02:09 AM

OK I got them right now but there are a bunch of copies. Sorry

-- Ken

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AlaskaGuy

3423 posts in 2093 days


#7 posted 09-11-2017 02:33 AM


OK I got them right now but there are a bunch of copies. Sorry

- newwoodbutcher

Not you doing.

Looks like a good idea as long as it’s sturdy enough to support everything. and stay flat and true.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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newwoodbutcher

678 posts in 2634 days


#8 posted 09-11-2017 03:50 AM

Thanks Alaska Guy,
It’s two layers of 3/4” Baltic Birch laminated together. I had your staying sturdy and stability concerns as well. Adding the bridge across the top is meant to help keep the whole thing flat and strong. Its a modification I added to the original to help with that. I too hope it stays flat and true cause it’s a very useful, productive and practical set up for me. It’s been in use for a few months now, so far so good.

-- Ken

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HorizontalMike

7609 posts in 2698 days


#9 posted 09-11-2017 09:56 AM

How about an image similar to the FIRST, but taken looking down at the jig. In other words, so we can see how much of a cutout there is to accommodate everything.

BTW, I like the idea (and yup I have two BS’s as well).

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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newwoodbutcher

678 posts in 2634 days


#10 posted 09-11-2017 04:10 PM

Like this?

-- Ken

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HorizontalMike

7609 posts in 2698 days


#11 posted 09-11-2017 10:08 PM

This is a great start! Any quick measurements on-center would help, should be able to eventually get it.

Nice idea!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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newwoodbutcher

678 posts in 2634 days


#12 posted 09-12-2017 12:24 AM

Mike, I drew a horizontal line about 38/ above the top edge of the Kreg fence then eyeballed the width of the protuding hardware front to back and the upper limit. Cutting out those lines allowed the bulk of the hardware to mis the plywood assembly but several posts and bolts prevented the fence from getting close to the blade. So, I marked out those locations and removed the necessary material. I never made a measurement with a ruler. Am I understanding and answering your question?

-- Ken

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HorizontalMike

7609 posts in 2698 days


#13 posted 09-12-2017 10:08 AM



Mike, I drew a horizontal line about 38/ above the top edge of the Kreg fence then eyeballed the width of the protuding hardware front to back and the upper limit. Cutting out those lines allowed the bulk of the hardware to mis the plywood assembly but several posts and bolts prevented the fence from getting close to the blade. So, I marked out those locations and removed the necessary material. I never made a measurement with a ruler. Am I understanding and answering your question?
- newwoodbutcher

Indeed you have. Thanks.

I am contemplating a “resaw fence only” solution. If I do that, then I wouldn’t have to do all of that cutout right next to the blade. Maybe I’ll make two, a 6in and a 10-or-12in one. Just need to figure what I resaw the most.

I also have a MagFence that I picked up for my 10in BS, that I can also use on my 14in BS when not resawing. That way, I think that I could probably just leave the resaw fence mounted to the OEM fence.

Hopefully the best of both worlds… ;-)

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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