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Bandsawed Veneer - How to install

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Forum topic by Bohaiboy posted 09-10-2017 05:53 PM 516 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bohaiboy

58 posts in 1576 days


09-10-2017 05:53 PM

I have decided I want to cut some mesquite veneers on my bandsaw. I am thinking about cutting 1/8 or 3/16” think to allow for sanding. I have a Performax 16-32 sanded so not an issue. My question is what is the best way to install this thicker veneer. Most video demos are for the VERY thin veneers that are available commercially. I did find a video by The Wood Whisperer for jointing pieces side by side to form a “larger” sheet, but not sure if that is better than adhering sheets (mine will be 5-6” wide) individually to the base stock. Any suggestions welcomed.

Thanks all from finally drying out Houston.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area


12 replies so far

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AlaskaGuy

3414 posts in 2091 days


#1 posted 09-10-2017 06:51 PM

Never mind.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View Loren's profile

Loren

9428 posts in 3430 days


#2 posted 09-10-2017 06:58 PM

Use a veneer press or vacuum bag.

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Bohaiboy

58 posts in 1576 days


#3 posted 09-10-2017 08:29 PM

I would if I had one, unfortunately I don’t. Also what is the preferred glue for the thicker veneers? Someone mentioned Google search, well after about 10 videos on how to glue the super thin veneers, I gave up and came to experts. Plenty of videos on how to cut veneers but I can do that part without issue.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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Rich

1711 posts in 371 days


#4 posted 09-10-2017 09:44 PM

Both plastic resin glue and liquid hide glue will do the job and give you plenty of open time to work. You will need some sort of press but it can be as simple as a couple of platens and some cauls — all things you can make in the shop for cheap if you don’t already have them lying around.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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shipwright

7717 posts in 2580 days


#5 posted 09-10-2017 10:45 PM

At 1/8” to 3/16” you are almost not talking about veneer. I use thick veneer (1/16”) for marquetry and at this thickness, which is very thick by commercial standards, you can still hammer it with hot hide glue. I would want to experiment before I recommended it on 3/16” however.
Hammer veneering is a great way to beat the “no press, no vac bag” problem. I’m just not sure if it will fly with what are probably more correctly “thin boards”.
Here’s an example: http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/36014

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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Bohaiboy

58 posts in 1576 days


#6 posted 09-10-2017 11:00 PM

Paul, thanks. I assume that is you in the video. What thickness would you cur your veneers (5-6” wide each) to accommodate sanding prior to glue down? I also noticed in that video that the substrate was boards vs plywood or mdf. Are you worried about wood movement of the substrate at all?

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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shipwright

7717 posts in 2580 days


#7 posted 09-10-2017 11:45 PM

Actually the substrate is a cold moulded hatch cover so it is (albeit home made) .... plywood.
I normally cut pretty close to 1/16” because the species that I cut myself are often expensive exotics. I use a Lennox Trimaster carbide blade and it gives a very nice cut.
This blog covers my latest veneer cutting. It was in My winter place in Az so I’m using my ShopSmith bandsaw.
http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/104226
The Tulipwood I’m cutting was ~$125 / board foot so I really didn’t want to do a lot of sanding. :-)

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View TungOil's profile

TungOil

667 posts in 277 days


#8 posted 09-11-2017 12:46 AM

Paul’s advice is the best to follow.

If you want to see how I did thick shop sawn veneers for the dining table I’m building take a look at my blog here:

http://lumberjocks.com/TungOil/blog/archive

entry # 5 through 8 show how I made mine.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

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Bohaiboy

58 posts in 1576 days


#9 posted 09-11-2017 12:49 AM

I can get Tulipwwood from our local supplier at $45.00/BF for 4/4 if you ever need some shipped.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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shipwright

7717 posts in 2580 days


#10 posted 09-11-2017 05:37 AM



I can get Tulipwwood from our local supplier at $45.00/BF for 4/4 if you ever need some shipped.

- Bohaiboy


Is that trimmed or live edge with lots of sapwood? There were lower prices when I bought mine but they would have had a lot of waste. This was trimmed to just heartwood. Still that’s a lot cheaper than even the live edge stuff I was looking at last winter.
Here is what mine looked like.

Sorry, I don’t mean to hijack the thread. :-)

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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Bohaiboy

58 posts in 1576 days


#11 posted 09-11-2017 02:33 PM

I am not sure. I just have a printed price list. Usually they have really good wood. It only states 4/4 rough. The store is Houston Hardwoods. http://houstonhardwoods.com/ I buy a majority of my wood there. We are very fortunate in Houston area, we have 4 major wood retailers here with many exotics available. Plus we have a Woodcraft and Rockler store that has some wood, albeit generally a lot more expensive. Most of the retailers here also have S4S in some exotics too.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

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shipwright

7717 posts in 2580 days


#12 posted 09-11-2017 07:34 PM

Thanks, I’ll file that info. It’s not far away when I’m in Az.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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