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Forum topic by Andybb posted 09-08-2017 07:26 PM 1231 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Andybb

442 posts in 381 days


09-08-2017 07:26 PM

A local frame shop that I had put glass and mat in a frame I made approached me about making jewelry boxes and tables for them as the guy they were using unfortunately passed away. A lot of the stuff they like is made using figured and spalted stock. I’m wondering what is the best way to make the small drawer fronts etc without having it twist after I resaw it from the large pieces that I have that are approx. 1” thick.

-- Andy - Seattle


7 replies so far

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Rich

1669 posts in 367 days


#1 posted 09-08-2017 08:31 PM

Resaw them oversized, sticker and weight them. I’m not sure what to tell you about time, since it’s going to vary based on the wood, your environment, etc. Once they’re stable, you can mill them to the finished dimension.

Depending on what construction you use, you will get some stabilization from the completed piece. For instance, if the drawer sides are dovetailed directly to the drawer face, they will have some stabilizing force in keeping it from twisting.

It’s really cool you have this opportunity, Andy. Best of luck with it.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Andybb

442 posts in 381 days


#2 posted 09-08-2017 08:39 PM

Thanks Rich. That’s why I was curious about the Rockler Mitre Fold setup. If I’m going to do this I want a way to make easily repeatable cuts. I’m going to go back and take some pics of what they have. I think I can do this but it requires me stepping up my game a bit to turn out a more professional looking finished product in a timely manner.

-- Andy - Seattle

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Rich

1669 posts in 367 days


#3 posted 09-08-2017 09:21 PM

Yeah, time is a real factor in whether or not it’s worth it. Another option for corner joints is a lock miter bit. Once it’s set up, you can run dozens of boards in no time that will glue up easily. It’s about 1/4 the price of the Rockler blade too. I did a blog post a few weeks ago that illustrates it and explains how to easily set one up in no time. http://lumberjocks.com/RichTaylor/blog/111009

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Andybb

442 posts in 381 days


#4 posted 09-08-2017 09:40 PM

Excellent! You really ARE the man.

-- Andy - Seattle

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Rich

1669 posts in 367 days


#5 posted 09-08-2017 11:43 PM

Since you were asking about using these on boards less than 3/4”, the Infinity Jr. bit advertises that it goes down to 3/8” thick stock. However, I have made joints in 5/16” stock. It’s cutting it close though.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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Andybb

442 posts in 381 days


#6 posted 09-09-2017 02:30 AM

If I knew how to downsize pictures I would, but this is the stuff they say always sells out at Xmas time. That gives me time to screw up some prototypes and build some inventory. Basic boxes sell for about $300 and the spalted ones for $600. Tables $500-$1200. The owner wasn’t there so not sure what the commission structure is but the artists Etsy page has the $600 boxes for $400.

Not sure what kind of wood the drawer carcases are made of but they are just about 7/16” so the Infinity Jr. should work.

Out of respect, no intention of copying his work. Plenty of plans online. The technique is what I’m after. Those joints are certainly faster than dove tails or box/finger joints. I think I could get 4-5 done by Xmas.








-- Andy - Seattle

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barada83

86 posts in 964 days


#7 posted 09-13-2017 02:37 PM

I’d probably do a veneer onto a solid backer not prone to warping.

-- Mike

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