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Resawing vs. Thickness planing

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Forum topic by EBatson posted 09-05-2017 01:17 AM 534 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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EBatson

2 posts in 85 days


09-05-2017 01:17 AM

I have squared up and straightened enough 8/4 hickory (beautiful grain patterns) for a kitchen table top. It seems real stable now, though several pieces had some cup, twist, or bend when rough. Most pieces are at least 1 3/4” and I need to get it to 1 1/2”. I know I can plane it down without any problem. However, since it is such beautiful wood, I’m thinking of taking 3/16” veneer off most of the pieces for some future use. I have a Laguna 14Twelve, which is plenty capable, but my few efforts at resawing (no efforts at veneer) have usually wound up with the wood releasing stress and bending, so I’m hesitant. Any advice is welcome.


10 replies so far

View BlasterStumps's profile (online now)

BlasterStumps

313 posts in 223 days


#1 posted 09-05-2017 01:34 AM

Do you have an extra piece you could do a test cut on to see what happens?

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TheFridge

7967 posts in 1270 days


#2 posted 09-05-2017 01:35 AM

You could. Your top thickness will probably be in the range of 1-7/16 to 1-3/8 after planing though.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View sawdustdad's profile

sawdustdad

270 posts in 669 days


#3 posted 09-05-2017 02:25 AM

If it’s cupped or warped, you need to joint it again, then plane to final thickness. This is common behavior when dealing with rough sawn lumber. I always mill over size and let “settle” in the shop a few days before final dimensioning.

-- Murphy's Carpentry Corollary #3: Half of all boards cut to a specific length will be too short.

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

769 posts in 375 days


#4 posted 09-05-2017 02:50 AM

You are an exceptionally good resawyer if you can take 3/16 off and loose only 1/4 of the wood.!

View Loren's profile

Loren

9433 posts in 3432 days


#5 posted 09-05-2017 02:58 AM

Yeah, it will probably cup but you can better
your chances of getting pieces flat enough
to use if you stack and sticker them immediately,
and weigh the stack down.

View jbay's profile (online now)

jbay

1741 posts in 683 days


#6 posted 09-05-2017 03:01 AM

Unless you really needed the 3/16 pieces for something,
I would just plane them down, taking the same amount off each side to help keep the boards as stable as you can.

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

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EBatson

2 posts in 85 days


#7 posted 09-05-2017 10:03 AM

I decided just to plane them down. Thanks to all.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2664 posts in 1265 days


#8 posted 09-05-2017 01:51 PM

Hickory is tough to work with and moves a lot due to stress.

I suggest finding a shop to drum sand it rather than plane it.

Hickory is prone to tear out.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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ArtMann

635 posts in 600 days


#9 posted 09-05-2017 04:02 PM

I use my Laguna 14/twelve to resaw pieces like that all the time and it works quite nicely. Your results will depend a great deal on the design and quality of the blade you use. I always cut the material a little thick so I can run it through my drum sander to smooth and bring it to exact thickness. I cut a lot of 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2 inch planks for box making and CNC carving but I have cut 1/8 inch material for inlays.

View CharlesNeil's profile (online now)

CharlesNeil

2069 posts in 3654 days


#10 posted 09-05-2017 04:07 PM

If you resaw it , odds are its going to cup, if it were me an its now flat and stable , i woul dplane equal amounts off both faces .. keeping the moisture levels balanced,

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