mitered box corners using router table w chamfer bit

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Forum topic by floridagramps posted 01-21-2011 03:38 PM 6519 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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23 posts in 2809 days

01-21-2011 03:38 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I’d like to make small boxes with mitered corners. Can I do this on router table using a chamfer bit on 1/2 inch thick stock. When woodworking show comes to Tampa in March I’ll buy a lock miter bit and give it a go but I’d like to try my hand at mitered boxes via chamfer bit now.

I lucked out w a CL purchase yesterday and picked up a router table with split fence and Jessum lift and PC 3.25 hp for $300 and am anxious to try it out

Appreciate your sugestions

-- florida/maine gramps

10 replies so far

View jayman7's profile


218 posts in 2922 days

#1 posted 01-21-2011 03:49 PM

I remember watching a video on Fine Woodworking where he makes a small box using a chamfter bit, so it is possible. I think the video is for subscribers only though. Personally, I just use my table saw at 45 deg.

View CharlieM1958's profile


16229 posts in 3635 days

#2 posted 01-21-2011 03:54 PM

It’s definitely possible. The tricky part is going to be aligning everything just right so that you don’t take too much off the length of any side when you cut the miters.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View richgreer's profile


4541 posts in 2491 days

#3 posted 01-21-2011 04:06 PM

It is definitely doable. Charlie’s point is valid. I think I would set it up so the chamfer was not removing the entire end of the board, leaving 1/64” or less at the top. Then I would soften the corner by sanding.

Also, I would make some initial passes the get you close and remove most of the material before that important final pass.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View bigike's profile


4048 posts in 2705 days

#4 posted 01-21-2011 04:38 PM

with the 3hp router your possibilities are endless, i have two of them one in a table and i can do one pass cove and bevel on 1” acrylic with no problem. But richgreer is right take a few passes and then a clean up pass a little less sanding like that.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8081 posts in 2845 days

#5 posted 01-21-2011 04:48 PM

Just a thought, here. Bear with me, cause I have so few.

Of course, Charlie is correct…but, what if a horizontal router was used with the bit buried in the table? That would negate the length problem, wouldn’t it?
If a large diameter bit were used, say a 1 3/8 cutting length and a 2 1/2 diameter, in the horizontal position you could theoretically rout a 45 on any thickness up to 1”.
If the table were adjustable, like hinged at the out feed side, very little fence adjustment would be necessary.
I could see a dedicated sled, like a coping sled, would be handy. too.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2267 days

#6 posted 01-21-2011 05:27 PM

Gene, I’m not visualizing well what you’re saying. The chamfer bit has a given cutter length and whether the axis is vertical or horizontal, that is the cutting length and that dictates the thickness of material that can be mitered in one pass.

The other consideration in milling miters with a router is blowout on the back side. Holding sacrificial stock there can help, or you can start with wider stock and trim both edges after you mill the miters.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View mwoberr's profile


7 posts in 2213 days

#7 posted 01-21-2011 06:27 PM

I used a router and chamfer bit when making the s. cedar lining for my humidor; worked great. I used a 1 inch bit on 3/4 stock and set the fence up to take off ~1/64 on each pass. Then I snuck up on my final length.

When doing this, I followed Lee’s advice and used a sacrifical backer board to prevent blow-out.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

8081 posts in 2845 days

#8 posted 01-21-2011 06:27 PM

Right on all counts.
If the table is adjustable, the cutting length is adjustable, varying by how much of the bit is exposed.
The fence would limit the cut as to length. So, a correctly sized piece could be used without worry about routing off too much.
Of course, the same applies to a vertical router and fence. In any case, set up would be critical. But, a few trial runs should suffice. I’d use a sled with on board clamps, too.
To prevent blow out, I back rout first.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2390 posts in 2339 days

#9 posted 01-22-2011 06:06 PM

I make hundreds of small cedar boxes and I cut the miters with a compound mitre saw. Quick easy and accurate.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

View Vintagetoni's profile


58 posts in 2110 days

#10 posted 01-22-2011 10:27 PM

Fun to play with new router and table for sure…but I do it like Jim Finn and lay the pieces right on a piece of packing tape to keep grain in line and to use as clamp, too. Easy and fast. Like to spline the miter later. Great buy on your router set up!

-- toni --- SW WI...working on shop setup....wish I could say diligently. "Time is a healer, a friend & a maker of dreams."

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