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Forum topic by newbiewoodworker posted 01-19-2011 11:24 PM 1126 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


01-19-2011 11:24 PM

I recently attached the lid supports to my toybox. The only issue, is that, I noticed, the hinges are actually tearing off the trim piece they are attached to. I had previously glued this, as well as put quite a few brad nails in it.

Any suggestions? Should I get a caulking tube of Liquid Nails, or should TightBond 1 be fine?

The lid support(only 1 so far) is working fine. And the lid sits flush, but I have to push it down, to get that trim piece to go back down → completing the rotation for the hinge.

Any ideas. Thanks.

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."


16 replies so far

View Jonathan's profile

Jonathan

2608 posts in 2517 days


#1 posted 01-19-2011 11:45 PM

Can you take and post a couple of pictures so we can see exactly what you’re talking about, or maybe a 10-second video of the issue?

-- Jonathan, Denver, CO "Constructive criticism is welcome and valued as it gives me new perspectives and helps me to advance as a woodworker."

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


#2 posted 01-20-2011 03:48 AM

I will tommorrow. Sorry, just got back from studing for Exams… 3 hours.. lol… But out by 12pm Tommorrow(Exams, then Science Club)... so Ill have some time.

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

17676 posts in 3143 days


#3 posted 01-20-2011 07:59 AM

sounds like the hinge screws need to go through the trim into some beefier meat.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View gko's profile

gko

83 posts in 2711 days


#4 posted 01-20-2011 09:06 AM

You might have to pull the brads into the trim on the sides of the hinge and replace with screws. Ditto Topamax, are the hinge screws going through the trim and into the body deep? Are the screws pulling out of the body along with the trim or are they not even going into the body? How thick are the trim? Trying to glue something that already has glue is not a good idea. If you can pull the trim off then that would be good and you can re-glue it but it means you didn’t have a good glue up. Body and trim needs to be really flat, enough glue so you get squeeze out and enough clamps or thick enough clamping blocks to spread the force out. If done right the wood should have broken before the glue line. I’ve had my share of trim falling off.

-- Wood Menehune, Honolulu

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


#5 posted 01-20-2011 09:49 PM

Bently: How do you tell where they are supposed to be? I pretty much picked a spot where they would reach…lol…

Gko: Not quite sure I can put screws in… It would be going into the side of an MDF panel… probably split the sucker right down the middle… The trim is regular maybe 1×2…big maybe… real small stuff. Just some scraps I had lieing around.

Topa: Yea, the hinge screws maybe sink 1/8 into the the trim… but they are holding fast.

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

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childress

841 posts in 3009 days


#6 posted 01-20-2011 10:13 PM

did you mill the wood right before gluing the trim piece on. If not, that’s probably why it’s coming apart and just adding more glue won’t help or fix it in my opinion. Maybe you could try to use an epoxy, that would bond the two for sure…

-- Childress Woodworks

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


#7 posted 01-20-2011 10:16 PM

Epoxy… Like Gorrilla Glue?

Yea, I never remilled them. I had done it for another project, but I didn’t replane them. They were smoothe though.

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 3009 days


#8 posted 01-20-2011 10:19 PM

Doesn’t matter. yellow glue bonds best to freshly milled pieces. Gorilla Glue comes in many different forms, and they do have an epoxy. Original gorilla glue was a poly glue, but now that BRAND has all kinds of different glues…

-- Childress Woodworks

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


#9 posted 01-20-2011 10:22 PM

Will Poly work? Id rather not buy anything more for this project.. lol…

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

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childress

841 posts in 3009 days


#10 posted 01-20-2011 10:57 PM

You could try it, but I wouldn’t. A small tube of epoxy is less than $5…

-- Childress Woodworks

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


#11 posted 01-20-2011 11:31 PM

Im using the Woodcraft Medium Weight Lid Supports. The instructions were useless. They simply said to mount it to a hardpoint, and to attach it to the lid… lol… Thats what I deduced… It was pictorial…

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


#12 posted 01-20-2011 11:41 PM

Ya know what….I completely missed the measurement pertaining to what you are talking about… I see it now… Thanks.

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


#13 posted 01-21-2011 03:57 AM

Works fine now. A few external stringers, to afix the trim piece to the bottom…and more brads than Norm… I seem to have it fixed… Its on the back, so Im probably not gunna paint em… I want this darned thing out of my workshop…. then to build a shop chair… since mine{Read a couple milk crates] can be thanked for dropping me on my arse today… all of a sudden I heard SnapSnapSnap* followed by gravity…. lol…

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

View William's profile

William

9906 posts in 2309 days


#14 posted 01-21-2011 03:06 PM

In the future, it’s usually best to attach a hinge to the actual lid, not trim. While trim is nice, I never trim the back of a lid for this reason. I learned the hard way, as you probably have now. To fix that hard lesson learned though without having to rebuild the lid, I replaced the screws with longer screws that went through the trim, into the actual lid. While this worked, I wasn’t happy, thus my reason for eliminating rear lid trim from that point forward.
During that project, I tried some of the ideas presented here. I thought I had it fixed at one point by regluing and using way too many brad nails to hold the trim. It was out of my shop and I thought I was finished, until I got a phone call a week later about the trim seperating from the lid again.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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newbiewoodworker

668 posts in 2294 days


#15 posted 01-21-2011 08:17 PM

So Sorry, William, I must not have been clear. The lid wasn’t trimmed… it was mortised out for the hinges. The actual box was tho. But, like I said, I fixed it with some “tiedowns” of sort… Not the prettest, but its the back atleast.

I also, decided to trim out the front, with some foam. Lessen the knockout hazard.

The lid supports, apparently aren’t the right ones. The lessen the drop, but still it drops petty fast. So what I did, was cut some dowel stock, then mortised out 2 spots on the trim/lid(was already groved to accomidate the lid safety). It looks nice. When the lid is pressing on them, it keeps them fairly secure. But when you wanna close it, you simply remove them.

Because of the foam, it does not let the lid sit flat. But if the lid drops, it provides some extra protection from crushed fingers. I dunno, it seems like a fair trade, to compromise looks for safety…

Now I just have to get this 100lb thing up 2 three-quarter flights of stairs…. lol…

-- "Ah, So your not really a newbie, but a I betterbie."

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