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Forum topic by Jack_Isidore posted 1309 days ago 836 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jack_Isidore

89 posts in 1477 days


1309 days ago

I am currently designing a pair of night stands and wanted to incorporate leather pads on the bottom of the feet. I was talking with my woodworking instructor and he mentioned he puts leather on the bottom of the feet so if the table is on an unlevel floor, it isn’t quite so noticeable.

On these tables, I was considering drilling out a circular relief, so that I can use thicker leather, without it being so noticeable when the table is upright. I haven’t figured out what type of leather would be best, or what thickness. My concern is, if I use thicker leather (1/8” to 1/4”) over time, it will compress from the weight of the piece and eventually become flush with the feet bottom surface. It’s a light table (CAD says 22 pounds), but may have heavy lamps, etc. placed on it.

Is this just a stupid idea altogether? I like the idea of the pads being “handcrafted” leather, as opposed to some rubber feet picked up from home depot. The tables would always be on hard floors, unless I happened to replace them and give them away.


14 replies so far

View jusfine's profile

jusfine

2280 posts in 1550 days


#1 posted 1309 days ago

I think it’s a good idea!

Check with a saddle maker or leather tanning business if you have one in your area, often they have scraps they will give away.

I have “herman oak” leather scraps that I have used for hinges on bins, tacked on the bottom of legs as you mention (I think the inset circular idea is better), among other things. I got an armload for free 15 years ago, still using it.

I don’t think the compression will be an issue.

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

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TopamaxSurvivor

14721 posts in 2300 days


#2 posted 1309 days ago

TAndyleatherfactory.com will have small pieces of leather. Each oz in weight = about 1/16 of an inch in thickness, if i remember correctly ??

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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rance

4128 posts in 1785 days


#3 posted 1309 days ago

I agree, a great idea. Another idea would be a hand-fashioned piece of UHMW/Delrin. Either would require a small recess. Keep the recess as shallow as possible.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

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levan

405 posts in 1604 days


#4 posted 1309 days ago

We put leather on the bottom of bench legs. No recess just glued it on. We use about 1-3mm thick leather and cut it about 2-3mm short of edges. Works well with no issues.

-- Lynn "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

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Jack_Isidore

89 posts in 1477 days


#5 posted 1309 days ago

Thanks everyone. I got some leather at Tandy a few days ago, I tried putting it on a project, but it looked strange. This is probably because there was no recess, I went about 1/8” from the edges, and the leather was about 1/8-3/16” in thickness. So, if I use no recess, I guess at the very least I need to use thinner leather.

I may give delrin a shot, probably not on this project, but one I know will be moved around a lot more, and needs to be more durable.

-John

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mpounders

725 posts in 1519 days


#6 posted 1309 days ago

I bought a large bag of leather scraps from Hobby Lobby for about $5 that I used to make a power hone for my gouges. I have experimented with leather tips for my walking canes. You can glue pieces together if something thicker is needed and you can also sand it down as needed, to some degree. Since it is absorbent, you can also let some finishes soak in to make it stiffer or more rigid. I don’t think compression will affect it much, but you could test it putting some in a vise or clamping it between boards; I suspect you will see little change. Wear from rubbing or being moved would eventually reduce it in size, but consider how long a pair of shoes will last and the type of wear they experience.

-- Mike P., Arkansas, http://mikepounders.weebly.com

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2talltary

5 posts in 1260 days


#7 posted 1111 days ago

Uhmw or maybe some teflon would be good. They both have great wear resistance especially UHMW and they would make it easier to move the furniture if it’s to heavy due to them both having low friction resistance. Give http://www.iplasticsupply.com/materials/teflon-ptfe-dupont-halar-ectfe-fep-sheet-film-rod a try.

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Jack_Isidore

89 posts in 1477 days


#8 posted 1110 days ago

That’s interesting. I wonder how well it’s self leveling properties would be, even though it’s plastic, it’s relatively hard. I bet it would be awesome for drawer runners. The couple of projects I’ve had drawers in, I applied wax to the wood surfaces and ironed it in. Works fine, but I don’t know how long it would hold up for, or if thin strips of PTFE would just give REALLY smooth sliding action.

Mike, I didn’t know they had that at Hobby Lobby. I wonder how the selection and price compares to Tandy leather. I’ll check it out sometime.

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JohnFD

7 posts in 1111 days


#9 posted 1110 days ago

Thanks for the comment mpounders. I just paid about $5 for a little card of pool cue tips. They are just leather cut into little circles. Next time I’ll go to Hobby Lobby and have lots of leather to experiment with after I retip my cue sticks.

-- JohnFD Lewes Delaware

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Jack_Isidore

89 posts in 1477 days


#10 posted 1110 days ago

Rick- I have some HDPE around, I could try that someday, too. I haven’t ever considered the friction properties of teflon versus hdpe.

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Grandpa

3071 posts in 1300 days


#11 posted 1110 days ago

I was going to recommend Tandy but I see you found them. You could use a belt blank and get some good thick leather (oak tanned) or they used to sell small practice pieces of leather for people learning to tool. there were about 1 inch wide by 4 inches long.

View BobTheFish's profile

BobTheFish

361 posts in 1176 days


#12 posted 1110 days ago

I’m going to be contrary and say it’s silly. It has some appeal (leather is always nice, and doing your own pads by hand has it’s appeal too), but leather’s going to wear when it gets rubbed, and it’s going to look ugly at the end. Also, you’re probably going to glue them on, and I’ve been burned too many times by devices like that that are supposed to either add friction or prevent sliding and are adhered by glue. I try to go with, at the very least, those cheap nylon pads with the tack through them, (which tend to snap in half, rather than come off via the tack) and preferably a rubber or other material pad with a screw through it.

Just my contrary two cents into the mix.

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Grandpa

3071 posts in 1300 days


#13 posted 1110 days ago

Bob: Normally I would agree but he said he would have it on hardwood floors. This should make it easy to move around. Not trying to be contrary….just point out something he said.

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BobTheFish

361 posts in 1176 days


#14 posted 1110 days ago

hmmmm….

Well, grandpa, I’d still at least suggest figuring out a way to tack it rather than glue it..

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