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| Forum topic by gerrym526 | posted 77 days ago | 633 views | 0 times favorited | 26 replies | ![]() |
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77 days ago |
I’ve had a Kreg jig for pocket hole joinery for several years now. Have built face frames for cabinets, and found it saved time. Any of you who have been using this system have suggestions for these problems? Thanks in advance for the help. -- Gerry |
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77 days ago |
I am in the market for one of those Kreg sets, so I will be interested in hearing how this topic is solved. Do you still have splitting if you use the course threads on hardwood? -- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com |
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77 days ago |
I use a special screw made just for pocket screws. Those would be pocket screw screws…kinda screwy. I also use a “vice” clamp to clamp my face frames. |
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77 days ago |
Bill-haven’t tried coarse thread screws, but it could be the next step. Kreg recommends fine thread screws for joining hardwoods, and coarse threads for sheet goods/MDF-but you never know what will work until you try it. Dennis-the screws I mentioned using are directly from Kreg, so they’re made for pocket hole joinery. That’s what makes the problem so frustrating. -- Gerry |
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77 days ago |
I’ve heard this same problem with the kreg set-up posted here before. I get a few failures with my portacable set up but not enough to worry about. |
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77 days ago |
Maybe you can try the McFeely’s screws as a replacement too? They seem to have all kinds of screws, and even some for pocket holes. -- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com |
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77 days ago |
Hey Gerry http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?&NETID=2021050224081773814&NTITEM=CT102 http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?&NETID=2021050224081773814&NTITEM=CT101 -- Andy Stark |
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77 days ago |
To keep the carcass pieces together you can use the kreg clamp with the point and pad. A couple of clamps place in strategic positions helps as well. If you are using the 1 1/2 inch kreg screws and have splitting try using the 1 1/4 inch kreg and see if that makes a difference. I always use a few test pieces of scrap to determine what screw is best. -- Genius is immediate, but talent takes time. |
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77 days ago |
I set the stop on the pocket-hole bit so the hole is just a little shallower than Kreg recommends. This avoids splitting through the face. I’ve also had the ends split on Hard Maple (I suspect other very hard woods might have similar issues) and I’ve resorted to pre-drilling near the ends. I’m not clear on your question about the casework assembly. Could you post a photo of the problem? -- What exactly is "The Move" and who are you calling a "Quirky Jerk"? -- http://www.north40custom.com |
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77 days ago |
gerry , i feel your pain man as for the splitting , maybe try not putting your pocket hole too near the edge of your stile if possible . i do a lot of wainscoting so the stiles are a little wider than most cab. frames . ive found i get splitting more if the screws are close to the end of the rail . i think you may have a certain amount any way if your useing a grainy type wood . i never use fine thread screws for one i feel they strip out too esily, and there are so many threads i think it could be having a wedge type effect ?? id try the course threads and see if it helps clamping , first i think its important that your stock all exactly the same thickness . if your useing pre milled stock it can vary a little and cause you great pain . in my opinion the clamps leave some to be desired . i used to do a lot of welding and i have some clamps the have a double clamping head thier like two of kregs clamps that work with only one handle ive tried useing these with a flat piece of steel across the two jaws on the face side and i seemed to have some success . on the backside the two jaws are one on the stile and one on the rail . kreg also has a single jaw clamp that anchors to your bench and pushes stile and rail both flat against the benchtop it looks like it would work better if the frames are small but the ones i do are much to big to use it . like yourself im gropeing for a better way !lol -- if you aint the lead dog the scenery never changes |
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77 days ago |
Gerry - |
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77 days ago |
Guys, I reviewed the Kreg website and it looks liike their right angled clamp (the one mentioned by jeffthewoodworker) might solve the carcass assembly problem. The one thing I won’t do is pre-drill the piece, although I do thank those of you who suggested it. The reason I bought the Kreg jig in the first place rested on their claim that you could cut down on assembly time. If I have to add a pre-drill step to the assembly, I’ll throw away the Kreg Jig and use my biscut joiner for putting together face frames! -- Gerry |
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76 days ago |
HI Gerry, -- Jim |
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76 days ago |
I have not split a frame yet using them. Maybe your not setting the drill deep enough? I have made tons of face frames from hardwood and never split one, which I was really concerned about when I first started using it. I use Kreg Fine thread screws for hardwood and course thread for softwood. As for carcass construction, I just hold the panels in place with one hand while driving the screw with the other. When attaching the face frames I use a biscuit jointer and put a few slots in the face frame and the cabinet bottom which helps align and hold it in place since this overhangs the cabinet bottom, which just makes it easier for me to assemble alone. Dave -- Upstate New York -- Do what you love and never work a day in your life. |
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76 days ago |
On the shifting piece issue – I usually clamp up what I’m assembling like I’m not using pocket screws. A few Besseys across the piece and there’s no way there will be any shifting. As far as the splitting, I’ve only had it happen on Brazilian Cherry – that’s it. Hard Maple, Oaks, Beech, Birch, all of them have been done with no issues…. -- Tom's Workbench - http://tomsworkbench.com |
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76 days ago |
I’ve had a few splits in Red Oak. I use clamps as well. -- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon |
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75 days ago |
Guys-thanks again for all the suggestiions. I’ll try some of them and see if they solve the problem. -- Gerry |
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74 days ago |
I have a couple of stupid questions/observations. Please don’t take offense if they seem blindingly obvious. Perhaps someone reading this can benefit even if I can’t help you. |
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74 days ago |
Grumpycarp, To those who asked if I had the drill bit set to the proper depth-I followed Kreg’s instructions to have the tip of the bit a hair off the bottom of the pocket hole fixture. I have one of their older, all aluminum, right angled fixtures with the clamp to hold the wood against where the bit works as a part of the fixture. -- Gerry |
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74 days ago |
last suggestion is kind of a pain but . . .get a screw just started into the mating piece then back it out and use a screw that you’ve just nipped the point off of, like one does with the point of a nail and see if that helps. If you’ve tried that too then I’m out of ideas. I don’t want to say I’ve not had a problem since that would pretty much guarantee that very issue plaguing me for the next year. Is there a particular type of wood that is vexing you? I’d be interested to find out how you solve this problem, please keep me informed. And good luck |
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67 days ago |
Here’s the response from Kreg tech support for those of you who asked to be kept in the loop on what I found out
Dear Gerry, -- Gerry |
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66 days ago |
Hopefully this will solve your problem. Let us know how it goes from here. -- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com |
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23 days ago |
Have you solved your splitting problem yet? I just started using my Kreg master jig, and had the same problem with an Oak face frame. I have a couple of other things to try that were suggested here. 1 – Try the right angle clamp I may have had some slipping on the clamped pieces, and then it split when trying to pull them back together. I will be trying again today. So far for the plywood and poplar, the screws work just fine. -- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com |
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23 days ago |
I have noticed both problems you speak of. Not so much the splitting, but i definitely notice that when you drive the screws the pieces have a tendency to walk a little. This doesn’t happen that much with face frames if you are using the clamp properly, but it is a problem with casework. I use a couple of the Kreig right angle clamps placed after the pieces are aligned. I have also tried drilling pilot holes but if you don’t have them centered it could make the problem worse. If you don’t have the right angle clamps, then I would just clamp the piece up like if you were just gluing it, nice and tight then drive the screws. I also like to use brads if possible. A couple well placed brads can keep the pieces from moving. And use “pocket” screws for pocket joints! -- Brad Nailor is just my handle..my Name is David, feel free to use it! |
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23 days ago |
I use mine regularly. I use dedicated special screws for the system and I make sure that the pilot hole is deep enough. If you are working with really hard stuff, maybe you should try to pre-drill before screwing. I use clamps first and screw second. -- making sawdust.... |
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23 days ago |
Here is a good download : http://www.kregtool.com/information_center/manuals/kreg_jig_pro_pack.pdf Also: Hope this helps- Good Luck -- Bill - - Ad-Marketing Guy, Ramsey NJ |
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22 days ago |
Thanks for the PDF Bill. I have just perused it so far, but found an interesting tip on page 20 - “Occasionally in very hard or dry material you may split the very top or bottom A smaller screw might help, as well as using just one pocket screw per rail end. I notice the splits were occurring the top hole of my frames. Well I do not feel too bad considering this is my first time using the jig. Since this is a cabinet for the garage, I am switching the frames to poplar since I will likely paint it. -- Bill, Turlock California, http://www.brookswoodworks.com |
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