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Forum topic by Ripper70 posted 08-21-2017 08:19 PM 385 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ripper70

419 posts in 659 days


08-21-2017 08:19 PM

Hello All,

I’m in the process of trying to finish up on a project that I started a while ago but put aside while distracted with other life stuff. It’s, hopefully, going to be a storage cabinet with doors and adjustable shelves. The main carcass pictured below is ready for assembly and I’ve put it together (without glue) so I can get a handle on how I will place my clamps, etc. The top and sides are joined with biscuits. The bottom and sides, as well as the two partitions, are joined in a dado slot. Back will be 1/4” ply.

As for it’s current state, I’m a little concerned about fitting and clamping all these pieces together and getting them square during glue up in a timely manner. I’m guessing I’ll have roughly 15 minutes. I will have the assistance of my signifiant other, but it’ll just be the two of us. It’s a pretty heavy unit as it’s almost six feet long. I have clamps for running lengthwise across the front and back and clamps at the partitions, front and back as well.

If you all have any advice as to what would be the smartest way to approach assembling this beast in the short time allotted (using TiteBond III glue) I’d love to know your tricks of the trade.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo


4 replies so far

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

19070 posts in 2856 days


#1 posted 08-22-2017 12:11 AM

What I do sometimes when I think I may not get it all glued in time is to glue half of it with the glue in place but put the other piece to it and do the clamping until the half is dried. Then I take apart the unglued pieces, coat them with glue, and do the clamping all over again. You have to have a piece that will come apart on the unglued side to do that. If it is all dadoed and captured, you just have to coat it and work real quickly.

Titebond III is all I ever use any more, too.

cheers, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Rich's profile

Rich

1504 posts in 340 days


#2 posted 08-22-2017 12:34 AM

Similar to Jim’s method, I would glue it up in stages, using right-angle braces to ensure that the pieces are square. From what I gather from the photos and your description, you could easily glue the two partitions into the dadoes in the bottom, using the right-angle braces and clamps. When that’s dried, glue the top onto the partitions, let that dry and attach the sides with your long clamps. As long as your first glue up of the partitions to the bottom are square, unless you torque something in the later steps, the whole unit will be square, although continuing to use braces would be good just to play it safe.

The braces could be commercial, which are pricey, or you can make your own like this out of a double stack of 3/4 plywood. Just make sure the two sides are at a right angle and knock off the corner so they stay flush. I keep several sizes around for different sorts of projects.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

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jbay

1654 posts in 649 days


#3 posted 08-22-2017 01:30 AM

I would place your long clamps over the joints.
Where you have them will bow the sides and ultimately pull the joint crooked.
Keeping the clamps squared over the joint will help square the cabinet.

I would start with your 2 center dividers then attach your sides.
You will have plenty of time, don’t rush.

-- If anyone would like to see my Portfolio, PM me and I would be glad to send you the link.

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Ripper70

419 posts in 659 days


#4 posted 08-22-2017 02:31 PM

Thank you, gentlemen. For some reason, the simplest answers are the ones that are the most difficult for me to see. I will take your advice and proceed accordingly.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

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