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Has anyone had double snipe from planer?

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Forum topic by MrDan posted 1186 days ago 1819 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MrDan

199 posts in 1786 days


1186 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: planer snipe double snipe delta 22-540 beds

So I finally got fed up with the crappy infeed/outfeed support tables that Delta provided with my 22-540 and I built a long, semi-permanent table to address the issue of snipe and lack of support for long boards.

The problem is now I’m getting double snipe on the leading end of my boards and also the usual snipe on the trailing end too. Has anyone ever had this and how do I get rid of it? I’ve done many hours of searching online for tricks to remove snipe, but I only find the normal 2” of snipe on the leading and trailing ends of boards, not double snipe up front.

Here’s a pic to show what I’m talking about. I’ve marked the location of the snipes with a marker for clarity:

I followed the plan from the March/April 2006 issue of Fine Woodworking by Andy Beasley. I used 3/4” melamine instead of the 1/2” mdf that he recommended and shortened the length of the bed to 4’ due to the size of my planer bench. Here it is:

I’ve elevated the outside edges of my tables to create about an 1/8” “U” shape to them but that didn’t help at all.
I’ve leveled the tables completely flat (even using a straight edge and feeler gauges) and that didn’t help at all either.

Now I know that I can use scrap boards in front of and behind my work piece and also just cut off the snipe after planing (too wasteful for me) but I know that MANY people have planers that do not snipe and I strongly believe that it’s just a matter of proper adjustment to make machines function properly—we shouldn’t have to live with the evils of nasty snipe—especially double snipe.

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

My question is: Can I make any adjustments to the machine itself to address this? The manual does not mention anything about built in adjustments (not surprisingly).


10 replies so far

View D_Allen's profile

D_Allen

495 posts in 1283 days


#1 posted 1186 days ago

I feel your pain…although I am not sure why there is a double snipe. Is it 2” and 4” or some other measurement. Something that I have resigned myself to is that there is no possible way to totally eliminate snipe on benchtop tools. IMHO, there is no way to make these things ridgid enough that there is absolutely no snipe. Mine is down to about .002” on the infeed, which I will have to deal with.
If you notice on the high end industrial machines, the cutterhead is stationary and the table move up and down. That arrangement can make the cutter and feed rollers extremely ridgid.
With portables, the introduction of added downward force by the second feedroller causes the entire motor assembly to flex enough to cause the snipe.
Something to keep in mind….when you read where someone tells you to support the end of the wood or to lift on it slightly, do so until well after the end has passed the 2nd roller. Same for the outfeed. Lift slightly well before the end gets to the first(infeed) roller. It only takes a lift equivelent of about 2 or 3 lbs.
As for the double snipe, if the distance is equal to the distance between the cutterhead and rollers then the rollers are probably the problem. If the distance is longer then maybe the extension table is slightly higher then the table and when it get to the extension, it moves the cutterhead up.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

View Kevin's profile

Kevin

445 posts in 1704 days


#2 posted 1186 days ago

I’ve got slight snipe as well after adjustments. I usually do small increments and always use 6-10” of extra length that what my final measurement is. Other than that I can’t think of anything, but someone else might chime in and suggest something though.

kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY

View MrDan's profile

MrDan

199 posts in 1786 days


#3 posted 1186 days ago

Thanks,
Yeah, .002” is definitely tolerable, I could live with that. I guess when I say that people get no snipe I should’ve said almost non-existent snipe.

The distance between the two front snipe marks is equal to the distance between the rollers and the cutterhead, that’s what was making me think it was the machine that needed adjusting too.

As for the possibility of the extension table being higher, the unit is all one piece of melamine particleboard straight through.

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

856 posts in 1753 days


#4 posted 1186 days ago

I was able to tame the snipe on my Delta by simply raising the infeed and outfeed tables so that there is about an 1/8” raise at each end of the tables. You’ll probably still need infeed and outfeed roller stands to support long stock. A 2 foot table still isn’t much support. Anything longer than 4 feet, the center of gravity is off the table and the board is going to have a tendency to snipe.

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

View docholladay's profile

docholladay

1283 posts in 1557 days


#5 posted 1186 days ago

How deep of a cut are you making? I suspect that the melamine table may be flexing slightly. Another thing to check is if the table is parallel to the plane of the feed rollers. If not, you may never eliminate snipe.

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

View Kevin's profile

Kevin

445 posts in 1704 days


#6 posted 1186 days ago

I think dochollady may be on to something there. I also agree with ChunkyC, i’ve got mine the same way about 1/16 or so raised on the ends.

-- Williamsburg, KY

View MrDan's profile

MrDan

199 posts in 1786 days


#7 posted 1186 days ago

I have tried the 1/8” lift with no results. :(

docholladay, the depth of cut doesn’t seem to matter to my planer, lucky me, it snipes at all depths. I like where you’re going with the table being out of plane…that seems like it could cause problems. I’ll check it and report back, but I don’t see how it could be out of plane due to the fact that the melamine is sitting directly on top of the original planer bed and so therefore is using that plane as a reference point… but we’ll see.

View D_Allen's profile

D_Allen

495 posts in 1283 days


#8 posted 1185 days ago

It seems to me that your setup would rule out any need for the ends of the table to be elevated.
Sorry but I didn’t notice the board went all the way through. I also tried that, although not quite as detailed as yours, with no luck in getting rid of the problem. I found that the snipe persisted regardless of if I was using a 15” board or a 4 ft board.
Have you checked to see if the cutterhead assembly has any movement vertically? Mine did at first when I pried up on it but adjusting the corner feedscrews took care of that.
It would seem in your case that there is some reason the cutterhead assembly is moving up and away from the workpiece. If there is verticle play, then it will move up once when the cutterhead begins and again when the outfeed roller contacts.
BTW, I also turned my blades around to the new edge thinking that the dullness may have caused the cutterhead to move away from the wood….didn’t matter. But the surface was nicer!
The rollers are set up like mine and ther is no adjustment. Springs privide the push and it is all preset.
One other thing I noticed on mine is that the stainless plate that covers the bed has a very slight bow in it but it was almost un-noticable.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

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MrDan

199 posts in 1786 days


#9 posted 1185 days ago

Ok…
D Allen,
I checked for cutterhead assembly for movement and there is none. No play at all that I can create by pushing or lifting.

docholladay,
I checked the rollers to see if they are out of plane from the table and I noticed the rear roller is .011” lower than the front roller. You think this could be cause for the second level of snipe?

View D_Allen's profile

D_Allen

495 posts in 1283 days


#10 posted 1185 days ago

MrDan.
Even if that roller difference was having an effect, it would only account for 1 of the snipe marks. Besides, there is no way to know if that is supposed to be that way as part of the design.
You may need to put a piece of wood inder the assembly and use a fulcrum to check for verticle movement. Just lifting with your hand may not be enough.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

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