LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

*

2K views 13 replies 12 participants last post by  kelvancra 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
#5 ·
Actually 10, 15, and 20 amp breakers used in your home are designed to be used as a switch. You will notice on the side SWD rated. This means the device is switching duty rated and must pass 10,000 operations. Larger breakers are not. The 10,000 on the side of the breaker represents AIR rating so don't confuse the two. These are different ratings.

Looking at your breaker, you obviously had an over current situation. Most likely caused by stresses over time in the connection to the bus caused by the switching. The breaker only senses current on the load side not the line side. This fault was on the line side. I hope the main breaker feeding the bus tripped, if not, you escaped a potential fire, and I would I get the main replaced quickly.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Bad connection to the bus and/or contact in breaker. Will cook itself out over time. A hot breaker is the first sign. Not coming back on losing continuity across it is obviously the last.

An overload of the breaker can make it burn out faster but it doesn't really matter if it has good contact.
 
#14 ·
I use my infrared thermometer and it detects differences between an open breaker and one running a load. It or the camera is a great way to monitor cable temps and such.

Fun fact: you can use an infrared camera to find breakers that are potentially going to fail soon. They will be much warmer (assuming relatively equal loads on all circuits)

- William Shelley
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top