Hollow chisel mortiser set-up question

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by RickM posted 02-24-2008 04:09 AM 1171 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View RickM's profile


27 posts in 3767 days

02-24-2008 04:09 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

As I mentioned in a previous post my lovely wife allowed me to purchase some new tools and one is the Jet JBM-5 hollow chisel mortiser. I set it up as per the directions but one thing I wasn’t clear about was the setting of the drill bit versus the chisel – how do I know whether it should be 1/16th or 3/16th or any other distance. Other then that it is one slick machine and a lot nicer then a chisel.

Okay so there is more questions – can anyone break it down sweet and simple on which direction to run a router. Clockwise, counterclockwise, inside a pattern, outside a pattern, in a router table, in a router table backwards ect… to a novice like me it is greek and I can only speak english and bad english.

One last one for now (Sorry) when I am gluing things up do I wipe the glue off while wet, wait till its dry and scrape, or use a wet cloth and wash it off. I use Titebond II – should I switch to Titebond III and why?

Thanks for the help if I am helpable (Is that even a word?)

-- RickM

2 replies so far

View gerrym526's profile


274 posts in 3804 days

#1 posted 02-24-2008 04:38 AM

I have a Delta Hollow Chisel Mortiser, but the technique of set up is the same. Start with the drill bit 1/16 below the chisel.Try some cuts and see whether you’re getting lots of resistance. If you are, lower the drill bit to 3/16 below the chisel.

Router direction-
Outside edge of a pattern=counterclockwise

Router table-right to left feed against the fence. (Not sure what you mean in a router table backwards)

When to remove glue-

Never, ever, wipe off the glue when it’s wet. It turns into sizing, filling the pores of the wood and preventing them from absorbing stain. You’ll think you’ve sanded it off, only to find a light spot in the stain where it wasn’t absorbed.
Two removal techniqes work depending on what’s glued up

1) Flat panel glue-ups. Wait until dry, then use a glue scraper (essentially a piece of metal bent 90 degrees, attached to a handle.
2) Glue that has seeped out of joints when clamped. Wait about 15min until the glue begins to set up (becomes sort of gummy, not wet any longer, but before it begins to harden). Use a plastic or metal putty knife about 1 inch wide and remove the glue before it hardens. If you start to use the putty knife and the glue smears, it hasn’t set up enough yet so give it another 10 min or so. The glue should be the consistency of chewing gum, but you should still be able to scrape it off the wood cleanly.

Titebond II or Titebond III-

These folks make great glue. However, don’t get hung up on marketing. If the piece you’re gluing up will be used indoors only, Titebond is fine. Any PVA glue will do the job on interior pieces. I actually use Elmers white glue (also a PVA glue) when building cabinets and furniture because it tends to dry clearer than yellow glue.

The only times you’ll need to go up a notch in glue technology are
-you need a waterproof glue for something used outside
-you need a very lengthly set up time because you are gluing up a piece with very complex joinery.

I actually emailed the Franklin customer support people, and they were very helpful. They explained the difference in open assembly time and closed assembly time and the characteristics of their various products-it pays to go to the source when you need info.

Hope this helps.

-- Gerry

View jcees's profile


1058 posts in 3795 days

#2 posted 02-24-2008 04:40 AM

First; on the mortiser, check your directions and you’ll find a nifty way to set the gap. Second; whatever the cut you’re trying to make with a router, the idea is to feed the cutter or against the rotation of the bit, so no matter what the router’s orientation, if you keep that in mind then you’ll understand which way to move the work piece or the tool. Third; Titebond II is fine. Unless your work is going to be submerged from time to time, you don’t need III. It’s good stuff though. Also, I find it easiest to clean up the squeeze out not immediately but soon after. When it stiffens a bit, it’s easy to scrape it cleanly away with a scraper or one of those Formica chips from the Depot. Waiting for it to dry I think makes it more difficult to remove and may take some surface material with it if you’re not careful. Hope this helps.


-- When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world. -- John Muir

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics