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Quick and easy box joint jig with swappable indexing pegs

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Forum topic by Bikerdan posted 08-16-2017 11:25 PM 1186 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bikerdan

25 posts in 112 days


08-16-2017 11:25 PM

Hey all. I was just messing around in Sketchup and came up with this box joint jig. You can build as many different slot sizes as you need. I haven’t built it yet so I’m not sure how well it works (or doesn’t) but hope someone out there can find it helpful. Enjoy!


15 replies so far

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TheFridge

8163 posts in 1303 days


#1 posted 08-16-2017 11:41 PM

That’s a good idea if you can get it dialed in and repeatable with each finger. A provision to replace the backer where it goes through the sled would be a must as well. The biggest problem I had with similar jigs was blow out on the face of solid wood when I flipped the board.

It doesn’t have to be that long front to back. I have a 3-4” jig that works well and doesn’t take up much space.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Bikerdan

25 posts in 112 days


#2 posted 08-16-2017 11:43 PM

Good point about the backer. Maybe I can figure that out too…

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papadan

3584 posts in 3185 days


#3 posted 08-16-2017 11:48 PM

From one Dan to another, I Like It! I’ve been needing to build one and I really like your adjustable style. Thanks for the help.

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TheFridge

8163 posts in 1303 days


#4 posted 08-16-2017 11:48 PM

Maybe route a 2”x2” square to use maybe 3/8” thickness backer at the least? Then you could cut a bunch and stash them.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Bikerdan

25 posts in 112 days


#5 posted 08-16-2017 11:51 PM

Here is a quick idea to solve it…

You’d probably have to chamfer the front edge of the base where the small part slips in for clearance. Also, might want to add a screw or two to the backer part as well.

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papadan

3584 posts in 3185 days


#6 posted 08-16-2017 11:51 PM

I was going to say to add a 1/4” hardboard backer for each size insert, but I like the Fridges idea.

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Bikerdan

25 posts in 112 days


#7 posted 08-16-2017 11:58 PM

Here’s one more revision with the changes that have been mentioned.

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TheFridge

8163 posts in 1303 days


#8 posted 08-17-2017 12:45 AM

I’d make it separate because the fingers could be different thickness. If you cut a thicker board in one size then a thinner board there will be a gap between the line to cut to and the blade. Possibly causing blow out.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Bikerdan

25 posts in 112 days


#9 posted 08-17-2017 01:54 AM

I’m not quite sure I understand exactly what you’re saying. Are you talking about something like having to cut half inch fingers an inch long because the mating board is an inch thick? That would complicate things. Now I understand what you were saying before. I’ll have to mock that one up. Thanks for the feedback and great ideas guys!

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TheFridge

8163 posts in 1303 days


#10 posted 08-17-2017 02:19 AM

More like your baseline will change so you cuts might be deeper on some sets of fingers than others.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Bikerdan

25 posts in 112 days


#11 posted 08-17-2017 04:07 AM

Here ya go. Is this what you meant? If so I love it. Much more flexible.

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a1Jim

116510 posts in 3394 days


#12 posted 08-17-2017 04:41 AM

Cool

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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Redoak49

2856 posts in 1805 days


#13 posted 08-17-2017 11:20 AM

You need to be able to adjust the piece in the base. Small differences make a big difference in fit. I have found that even with different woods, you need some adjustment. I cut my finger joints on the router table most of the time.

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ScottM

558 posts in 1963 days


#14 posted 08-17-2017 12:34 PM


You need to be able to adjust the piece in the base. Small differences make a big difference in fit. I have found that even with different woods, you need some adjustment. I cut my finger joints on the router table most of the time.

- Redoak49

I agree. Your current method assumes the fingers are going to be exact the first time. You need a way to fine tune your “finger insert” both left and right instead of having it in a fixed position.

Good start though. Laney Shaughnessy made one similar to this. Check out his youtube for some ideas on the adjustments. I also tried making one like this but it turned out to be more involved than I anticipated and ended up buying an iBox.

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Bikerdan

25 posts in 112 days


#15 posted 08-17-2017 02:30 PM

Correct me if I’m wrong, but that would only be a problem if something changes, like the table alignment or blade. Right? I haven’t ever done box jointery so I’m absolutely a noob when it comes to things like this. I’ll have to see if I can come up with an idea to help with that. Again, thanks for the ideas guys!

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