hi, broke my band saw, what kind of tooth do i want, I want a half inch 3tpi, for general shop use as well as trimming and squaring blanks for wood turning. Pieces hard and thick some of them, the are so many kinds. Timber Wolf has one for green wood specifically bowl blanks but what about other wood shop work. I don't do any fine wood working any thoughts
1/2" 3 tpi is a good general purpose blade. Biggest blade that I use on my Grizz G0555LX. Then 3/8" 6 tpi, and 1/4" 8 tpi. Those 3 will do most of what I need.
Bill
thanks for your input, I had another thought, the stock blade is still good, I replaced it because its not up to ripping green hard wood, its a fine tooth, so I was thinking a 2 tooth blade for cutting up my turning blanks and the stock blade for my other. just a thought
I'm curious why it is a waste of money to put a carbide blade on a 14 inch saw? It works well, doesn't seem to drift and for my wife's turnings she gets almost a perfectly circular cut for blanks. My wife went through a couple blades a year, so if it lasts 2 years it is worth it in my opinion. The cuts look like they were jointed they are so smooth. We do have the riser, so we can use the full capacity of the saw.
thanks for your input, I had another thought, the stock blade is still good, I replaced it because its not up to ripping green hard wood, its a fine tooth, so I was thinking a 2 tooth blade for cutting up my turning blanks and the stock blade for my other. just a thought
There aren't too many woodworking tools that scare me, but after using a 2 tpi bandsaw blade once, I'll never use one again. Of course, if I was cutting flat stuff, then there isn't a problem, but cutting uneven stuff is downright spooky. ........... Jerry (in Tucson)
Wisdom once was carbide BS blades to stiff to run on 14" saw due to (0.35) thickness of blades. Well that has change with just carbide tip blades like Lenox 0.025 thick blades. Only down side to new 0.025 thick carbide tip blades are their price. If do a lot of re-sawing and have the money buy one and don't look back. On the other hand flex back blades with any alternite, hook, or raker set will serve you well for the price.
For re-sawing logs for turning blanks helps to have a BS sled. I found free hand or circle jig for getting blanks round a breeze. Never went smaller than 3 TPI blades though.
Wisdom once was carbide BS blades to stiff to run on 14" saw due to (0.35) thickness of blades. Well that has change with just carbide tip blades like Lenox 0.025 thick blades. Only down side to new 0.025 thick carbide tip blades are their price. If do a lot of re-sawing and have the money buy one and don't look back. On the other hand flex back blades with any alternite, hook, or raker set will serve you well for the price.
For re-sawing logs for turning blanks helps to have a BS sled. I found free hand or circle jig for getting blanks round a breeze. Never went smaller than 3 TPI blades though.
I've only used a carbide tipped blade, didn't know there was any other kind. I can only say it is worth it to us. If it lasts 2 years it pays for itself. I have carbide on my TS, Jointer, and Planer, so it seems natural. Based on cost the BS blade is second cheapest. Good TS blades blades approach $100 and go way up, the BS blade was $149, Carbide head for 12 inch planer/jointer is very expensive. There are pretty cheap BS blades, but carbide is much better IMHO.
A blade used to cut green wood, requires a lot of gullet to effectively clear damp sawdust A carbide tipped blade would be great, but any good 1/2", 3TPI blade will do the job. I personally use Starrett, "Woodpecker" blades; their weld is invisible. Lenox also makes a good blade. I have not tried a Timber wolf, but I hear many are happy with them.
thanks for the suggestion, I guess I,ll stick with the 3 tooth, I had a timberwolf blade for my other saw. It worked great great till it broke. I cut a piece of dowell and it got in the saw and broke the blade
I'm not a turner, I'm an enabler. We purchased a band saw for my wife to trim wood. We tried various sizes up to 3/4 inch. Eventually found the 1/2 was best. Often you need to trim off the end of a log or the end of a large piece. I'm not sure what it is called when you cut a log lenthgwise and use that as the blank. Anyway they are large pieces and the 3/8 blade could be easily disturbed. I stand to the side and support the weight, but it was easy to see the poor cuts and how the blade could wander. I've watched the Snodgrass videos, so I think I'm ok at adjusting the saw, not great, but ok. We tried several different blades over the years, timber wolf and Carter come to mind.
3 tpi is good for rough cutting, but the surface will need some work if it is a showside.
Give it a try, perhaps we try to cut too fast. Be careful crosscutting logs, when they start spinning you will need to change your underwear.
We got the carter circle cutter jig and centre finder faceplate thing (it helps you put the faceplate in at the exact centre of the circle). Not at all needed, but they can help get the maximum out of your blanks.
Not knowing what saw you have, most band saws of the 14" size will take a maximum of 1/2" blade Few saws of that size are able to properly tension the blade. Using a 3/8" blade will allow greater tension for a less drift cut.
Not knowing what saw you have, most band saws of the 14" size will take a maximum of 1/2" blade Few saws of that size are able to properly tension the blade. Using a 3/8" blade will allow greater tension for a less drift cut.
I used a 3/4" as that was the largest size recommended by Grizzly. Wore it out. It was pretty good, but not so good on cutting curves in the size we needed.
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